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Newer cars are stupid.

If you have to fix anything on a new truck off comes the cab because the motors are set so far back you can't access anything because the back half is underneath the firewall tunnel.
 
Mary found a tech bulletin that listed a no-cost way to recalibrate the pedal to the throttle body:

*********************************************************************************************************************

Syncing or Recalibrating the Gas Pedal (Throttle Position Sensor) on a Dodge After Replacement

After replacing the gas pedal (which houses the Throttle Position Sensor or TPS) on a Dodge, you may need to recalibrate it to ensure proper throttle response and engine performance.

Here are a few common methods you can try, although it's always recommended to consult your vehicle's specific repair manual for the most accurate procedure:

Method 1: Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor Recalibration (Manual Method)

This method involves a specific sequence of steps using the ignition key and accelerator pedal. The steps include turning the ignition to the "ON" position (without starting the engine), slowly depressing and releasing the accelerator pedal multiple times, turning the ignition off, waiting, and then starting the engine. The engine should be allowed to idle afterward for the engine control module (ECM) to relearn the throttle position.

Method 2: Battery Disconnect and Reconnect

Another approach is to disconnect the negative battery cable for a period of time to allow the system to reset. After reconnecting the cable, turn the ignition to the "ON" position without starting the engine to allow the ECU to initialize, and then start the engine and let it idle.

Method 3: Professional Scan Tool (Required for Newer Dodge Models)

For newer Dodge models (typically 2009-2010 and later), a professional scan tool is usually necessary to perform the Electronic Throttle Control (ETC) learn procedure. This can be done by a mechanic or dealership using diagnostic equipment like a WiTech scan tool.

Important Notes:

  • Symptoms that might indicate a need for recalibration include unstable idle or poor throttle response.
  • While not always required, the relearn procedure is recommended if you experience these symptoms after replacing the pedal.
  • Some older models may also require a scan tool. Refer to your vehicle's manual or consult a professional if you are unsure.
  • If issues persist after trying manual methods, it's best to seek professional diagnosis and repair.
 
So let me organize my bitching. I’ll just feature the fly by wire cars I recall owning and this will be kind of long.
2010 Challenger V6
2005 Mustang GT
2014 RAV4
2018 Camaro V6
2019 Challenger 392
2022 Maverick eco boost 4 banger.

All of those have been such love/hate relationships (less love for the RAV4). I really like some new car features and that some of those non V8 cars (again sorry RAV4 not you) could run with or will out run V8 cars I had back in the day that I thought were decently quick for their time. So that’s the good part but gaddam I hate drive by wire, at least for some of them I could use a tuner and make it behave more like a physical connection. Some I just had to live with.
I also hate that things like a power window go thru a network so when you want to move the window you are effectively asking the computer to move it and I notice the delay. I feel like that’s a future maintenance nightmare, the windows in the Maverick don’t seem to have the delay so maybe they went back to a direct connection or it’s a faster network.
Speaking of the Maverick, to save gas it will stall at a light and restart when you take your foot off the brake. I’ve used a tuner to turn that off, twice. It comes back like Jason, and when you grow up with janky cars having something that stalls all the time just makes me jump like oh ****! It came back the first time on the first drive after adding an amp and woofer. I’ve never set one of those up before and when it stalled I got all sweaty thinking I fried the ecu on my new (to me) truck.

Now lets talk about the nanny controlled 19.5 speed transmissions, always going into the wrong gear unless you have a tune or a manual mode, to be fair tho I did like the 5sp auto in the 2010 challenger. I don’t need to be at 800 rpm at 35 mph in town.

I could bitch more but I’ll end with the alternator on the 05 Mustang GT. It apparently had some kind of clutch assembly to save fuel, basically turns charging off at times, so of course that failed and while waiting for a tow I could rotate the pulley but see the inside didn’t turn, replaced that with a non clutched unit. The new Maverick seems to have the same junk, but it may be more advanced then just a clutch, at least I hope, but I can see on long drives it decide to just run off the battery for awhile which can affect some aftermarket accessories. Ok I’ll stop, it’s self inflicted torture because no one forces me to buy the things.
 
Reading along and most of it is repair problems.
After I retired I ended up with a part time under 40 hr per week job at a auto auction.
Just starting a car and getting it to move can be a challenge at times.
All the safety things now built in can fool you.
Nothing is standard, one make of late model the seat belt must be clipped to put it in gear.
Another , the door must be closed.
Some will not turn over unless the key fob is placed in a slot in the dash.
Then just trying to locate the start button on some lol.
I had to deliver a late model land rover and got a heated back massage for 40 miles because I could not figure out how to shut it off on the screen.
Showing my age but im happy when they toss me the keys to a early 2000s ride.
Worn out EV and hibred stuff that's now starting to hit the auctions are another story .
 
looks a lot like the underhood of a new Ford bronco
2025-06-27_072106.jpg
 
First of all, all this modern crap has allowed that truck to go 411K miles. The number of old classic cars that went well into the 100,000 mile range was very few compared to modern cars.
Having said that, the electronics can absolutely get "old", especially the parts related to ignition (like coils, for example). I'd say you are doing pretty damn well with this truck!
I been waiting for it and Hawk finally said it. Cars years ago would go 10,000 miles and it needed plugs and points. Day to day driving around town was pretty hard on the points with a high compression, solid lifters, factory dual point car. Brakes didn't last 70,000 miles like mine do today. I've replaced brakes on so many newer cars and it's a walk in the park. It takes longer to get the car ready than it does to do the job. I don't like drum brakes and I don't even like people that do like them. At 400,000 plus miles, any older car would be dust and I don't want to hear a story about a guy that had a million miles on his 60's car, because it not the norm for the period. My Coronet will need a tune up in about 70,000 miles, and I know the next guy with do a fine job. While I can appreciate his truck still running at 400,000 miles and it looks great, get on your knees and thank god it wasn't a 67 instead of an 07. I've never dealt will anything that they had to come for it with a sweeper broom and a shovel when I was done with it. I don't see a car as a test to see how long I can keep it, I get bored to easy. I owned a 65 Chevy work truck before I first got married that had holes in the floor so big, you could put your head through them. Synchronizers in the gearbox were just wore out and double-clutching was my best friend, I'm done with those days.

I still have the oil changed on my Durango every 3,000 miles. If it breaks, I'll get it fixed. If it breaks again, I'll get it fixed, after that, it's going to a new home. I get working on cars as a hobby, but I'm not getting in anything with my wife, that SHE may have to push me home in.................... Yeah, like that going to happen!! LOL .
 
My wifes new Ford Maverick's owners manual has 1000 pages... really.

I really dont want to own a vehicle that needs that many pages in the owners manual.

Even the book How To Understand Women is only 10,000 pages and you know how complex of a subject THAT is.
 
Electronic fuel systems for diesel engines have made it to boats. Not a good plan IMO. A salt in the air environment do not mix well.
I have one bike and one truck with fuel injection. I like them both, the truck for winter starting. Chev V6.
I have a bike with four carbs and manual choke ( enrichener ) it starts as well as fuel the injected bike, but can have some issues. Injectors do need servicing, and that can be costly.
I am staying away from the new stuff for now. Truck will last long enough, and none of the new bikes excite me. Although a newish Ninja 400 should be faster than my 83 Yamaha 400.
 
I too have no desire for the sensor laden vehicles of today. My newest is an 05 300C. It has not been problematic since it doesn't have all the junk like tire pressure sensors and steering angle sensors like the newer stuff does. My financial guru was telling me a couple weeks ago that his new Audi or whatever he has tried to kill him recently. He was in the process of making a left turn on a divided street when he saw a break in traffic and decided to make his turn when the car slammed on the brakes mid turn because it saw a car coming half a block away. He was almost hit head-on. I told him I will stick with my 300 that lets me do the driving. My G daughter's 2011 Jeep is one of those code ridden vehicles. It seems every week I need to clear one out and swap in new parts. I can't imagine what a 2025 model has for sensors. Probably would force me to go on a diet before even giving me a ride or be like my wife suggesting we top off the tank because it is down to 3/4.
 
looks a lot like the underhood of a new Ford bronco
View attachment 1875654
Yep look at this monstrosity in the Maverick (love how it runs tho)
20250508_181952.jpg

My wifes new Ford Maverick's owners manual has 1000 pages... really.

I really dont want to own a vehicle that needs that many pages in the owners manual.

Even the book How To Understand Women is only 10,000 pages and you know how complex of a subject THAT is.
Same here, I usually enjoy reading the manual that comes with a car, saw the page count on this one and said to hell with it. I fed it to AI and just ask it questions instead.
 
One issue that has come up with my car that drives me nuts and I have no idea how to fix, is that often the trunk will pop open while the car is sitting there parked. Also, I don't lock the car generally, but often I'll find it locked when I go to open the car door in the morning.

Do you carry the fob in your pocket?

Numerous times I've activated door locks and trunk locks just by getting in and out of the car. I drive a Nissan Kicks at work and quite a few times I've come back to the car and find it's locked. Working in my garage I'll hear my truck horn sound outside and just realized I was leaning against a fender on the car I was working on inside the garage.

I had an '05 Sebring and went to leave for work one morning and the battery was dead. I jump started it, started up the road and I noticed the trunk latch light on the dash was lit. Yep it had popped and left the light on all night.

Funniest one was we were doing a custom paint job on a truck I owned. Had a lot of the truck taped up for paint. I was squatting down behind the truck and all of a sudden the alarm started going off. I called the alarm company right away and they said they weren't showing an alarm for the shop. Here it was the truck alarm going off. Sounded just like the shops alarm. Man did I feel stupid. Plus it scared the ....out of me! I still carry the fobs in my pocket:rolleyes:
 
Reading along and most of it is repair problems.
After I retired I ended up with a part time under 40 hr per week job at a auto auction.
Just starting a car and getting it to move can be a challenge at times.
All the safety things now built in can fool you.
Nothing is standard, one make of late model the seat belt must be clipped to put it in gear.
Another , the door must be closed.
Some will not turn over unless the key fob is placed in a slot in the dash.
Then just trying to locate the start button on some lol.
I had to deliver a late model land rover and got a heated back massage for 40 miles because I could not figure out how to shut it off on the screen.
Showing my age but im happy when they toss me the keys to a early 2000s ride.
Worn out EV and hibred stuff that's now starting to hit the auctions are another story .
When options and their functions are standardized, it does help.
Imagine the guy that rents cars when out of town on business. Each different car is a learning experience that he may not like.
Our old cars did have some weird stuff too. Push button transmissions must have felt weird to those outside of Chrysler owners. The radio location being in the center was not common in Mopars. The E body and even the Aspen/Volare had it on the left side. Before 1970, some cars had the ignition switch to the left of the steering column. Some 1980s era FORDS had the horn in the turn signal stalk. Our 2003 Honda has the wiper functions on a stalk on the right side of the steering column....next to the shift lever so often times a switch into drive gets the wipers going.
 
I went through a similar brewhaha with my '04 Ram after the DBW throttle stuck FULL OPEN getting on the freeway....thank goodness there was room for me to react and shut down safely.
As I accelerated through the on-ramp the thing just kept going. Caught me by surprise for sure but I went key off ('04 still used a key!) and shifted to neutral and coasted to the side after unexpectedly speeding to over 90 mph.
Changed the sensor, and yeah I also discovered a computer reset was required to calibrate the system to the new sensor.
 
When options and their functions are standardized, it does help.
Imagine the guy that rents cars when out of town on business. Each different car is a learning experience that he may not like.
Our old cars did have some weird stuff too. Push button transmissions must have felt weird to those outside of Chrysler owners. The radio location being in the center was not common in Mopars. The E body and even the Aspen/Volare had it on the left side. Before 1970, some cars had the ignition switch to the left of the steering column. Some 1980s era FORDS had the horn in the turn signal stalk. Our 2003 Honda has the wiper functions on a stalk on the right side of the steering column....next to the shift lever so often times a switch into drive gets the wipers going.
Very true.
Last year on a business trip out of state my rental was a new Ford SUV. It was pretty nice, but all the heat and A/C controls were done through the touch screen--there were no knobs. It was infinitely frustrating trying to adjust things while driving.
Key 'fobs', touch screens, rotary dials to shift gears...aargh!
 
When options and their functions are standardized, it does help.
Imagine the guy that rents cars when out of town on business. Each different car is a learning experience that he may not like.
Our old cars did have some weird stuff too. Push button transmissions must have felt weird to those outside of Chrysler owners. The radio location being in the center was not common in Mopars. The E body and even the Aspen/Volare had it on the left side. Before 1970, some cars had the ignition switch to the left of the steering column. Some 1980s era FORDS had the horn in the turn signal stalk. Our 2003 Honda has the wiper functions on a stalk on the right side of the steering column....next to the shift lever so often times a switch into drive gets the wipers going.
I had a 73 Lincoln Mercury Capri and the horn was on the end of the blinker stalk. No one was ever going to find it without being shown.
 
This thread has just reinforces my stance against all this new horsesh_t! First, I can't afford one. Second I don't trust one. The engineers should be neutered so they can't reproduce as well as the people who allow it! I will gladly spend thousands of dollars to repair rust & items on my (2) 2000 Dodge vehicles as long as I can get parts. First, my daily driver a 2000 Dodge Grand Caravan Sport & second a 2000 Dodge Ram 4x4 Pickup. I read somewhere fairly recently that some new vehicles no longer have a mechanical inside door release, it's electric. That means in an accident that cuts battery power, you can't open the doors from the inside in an emergency!!!! I may be wrong but I did read that somewhere fairly recently. By the way, the new vehicles with touch screens to control everything will cause more accidents than anything else; stupidest thing they ever dreamed up. George Orwell was right, big brother is watching but he has become a perverted zipperhead! I feel sorry for what the up & coming generations will have to deal with. :(
 
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