Next step in 440 cam removal?

[Kevin74]

Since it is off by one tooth in the opposite direction of engine rotation, does that mean it didn’t jump a tooth while running? Instead, someone just installed it that way?
I guess I trying to decide whether the timing chain can be reused.
Thanks,
Kevin

Gosh, I’m probably foolish to reuse that timing set, right?
I think I answered my own question. I’ll feel better with a new timing set.

 

[Don Frelier]

This one?
Duration 292/297, Lift .582/.588, Mopar, Big Block, Each
A solid roller 292 is not a cheap setup and it's pretty huge especially for a 383.
I'd try and move it over a tooth and see how it runs.
Is it a 383 or a 440?

And the timing set is likely pretty good.

 

[Kevin74]

This one?
Duration 292/297, Lift .582/.588, Mopar, Big Block, Each
A solid roller 292 is not a cheap setup and it's pretty huge especially for a 383.
I'd try and move it over a tooth and see how it runs.
Is it a 383 or a 440?

And the timing set is likely pretty good.

Thanks, Don. Yes, that’s the cam. It’s in a 505 stroker. Even after degreeing, I fear it wouldn’t run my power brakes.
The engine was $3000 on Craigslist, so I couldn’t pass it up. I think it was so cheap because it ran terrible, belched fire out of the carburetor, etc...

 

[65-440]

Thanks, Don. Yes, that’s the cam. It’s in a 505 stroker. Even after degreeing, I fear it wouldn’t run my power brakes.
The engine was $3000 on Craigslist, so I couldn’t pass it up. I think it was so cheap because it ran terrible, belched fire out of the carburetor, etc...

Just run a vac pump for the booster

 

[BLK 68 R/T]

I didn’t see it mentioned anywhere, but, stepping down that far in cam size might necessitate a change in pushrods as well. Longer ones might be needed. If you check and adjust the rockers and have more than 1 1/2 threads showing below the rocker arm you need longer pushrods.

 

[That_Tall_Dude]

Wouldn’t reducing the duration that much, increase cylinder pressure a lot, maybe cause pinging/knocking?
(Assuming it was built right for the 292 cam)

It would be good to really know what you are dealing with.

probably a good idea to confirm the stroke and engine displacement.

A bigger displacement engine runs smoother than the same cam in a smaller displacement engine supposedly.

so again, good to confirm what you have

If you pull the head for that, you can also confirm the actual compression.

These are just my thoughts

hopefully folks with more engine building experience than myself can speak to that.

You can adjust the compression a bit with the head gaskets, but not a ton, especially if it has that 4.25” stroke

Pretty sure it would run pretty bad if the cam if off a tooth

also I think low vacuum engines can require serious some carb tuning

can easily get popping, I believe, if they are just bolted on with basic just adjustments

if it were me

I’d want to confirm if timing set was installed incorrectly as it appears.

if so, then fix that, and try to get the engine running happy before changing anything else

Is if if runs better, move to the carb

lot of folks just turn up the idle screw too much to get it to idle; gets it out of the idle circuits and cause problems (I did )

Do one thing at a time, to isolate and confirm the problems, then attempt to correct them

doing multiple changes at once will make trouble shooting much harder, if not impossible

good luck!

 

[That_Tall_Dude]

Here is what 440 source says about the existing cam in a stroker, the hydraulic roller lifter version

http://store.440source.com/Hydraulic-Roller-Retro-Fit-Camshafts/products/155/

 

[RemCharger]

Personally, I would want to see what the current cam is degreed in at. Maybe someone checked it and it was good?maybe not. Also a good idea to Run a Torrington bearing chain set with the roller cam.

 

[That_Tall_Dude]

Hey Kevin,

found your other thread with engine info.

10.5:1 on iron head seems high for that cam you want

dunno if you’ve confirmed compression, or just will do the .100 head gasket if needed

 

[Don Frelier]

Personally, I would want to see what the current cam is degreed in at. Maybe someone checked it and it was good?maybe not. Also a good idea to Run a Torrington bearing chain set with the roller cam.

I would be very surprised if that cam is degreed properly. It could well be 10 degrees retarded. How do you know it's a 505" did you get a build sheet?

 

[That_Tall_Dude]

Like the plan by the way; if it all comes together

the cam you want is better match to the 906 ported heads.

Prolly end up with something like this or better:

https://www.hotrod.com/articles/new-life-for-mopar-383-big-block/