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nitrous

If you're not using more than 200 or so, w/ a safe A/F, in my experience ring gap has not been an issue.

Acquaintance of mine recently went from 11.30's to 9.80's on a 91 (?) jet in a horribly mismatched 6.0 LS combo at a bit over 3500 lb. Stock high mileage short block. Keep the flow low and tune safe and you don't need exotic parts.

If you're just looking for 2 tenths, have you considered going to a smaller rear tire (assuming your car is your avatar)? Drag brakes? 10's isn't far enough away for all the expense of a nitrous setup.
 
I really didnt want to tear down the engine for this application so if thats an issue I may just pass on this project.
 
I think a well thought out NOS setup will cost you the same as any other power adder.
Sure you could buy a $600 dollar base kit and be disappointed with the performance.
But a well thought out kit will take both time,money and research.
You are not going to bolt on a kit and put 250 hp jets,retard you timing 8-10 degrees and be happy or keep your engine together.
 
Get rid of the giant tires, they're just slowing the car down.

In your explanation you don't mention what brakes you're running.

I suspect 2 tenths should be easy to find.
 
Like someone mentioned if u only use 50-100hp shot system u don't have to worry much about the ring gap I was just pointing out that nitrous is safe to use as long as u don't half *** the job. The headgasket is same deal when u start using a lot of nitrous like 200hp or more u need special steel head gaskets that are o ringed. UT for u just get a 75 HP wet system with a purge solenoid and you'll hit your number oraaalittlefaster then
 
you may try talking to the guys at Baily Brothers {spelling?}, I haven't dealt with them in nearly 20 years probably now, BUT they used to be really respectable engine guys, for that area, granted they are mostly dealing with GM/Chevy stuff, like 99% of all the performance shops do...

I didn't think of it before
There's a guy on here FastMan {I think is his username, he doesn't post much} that owns a shop in the SF Bay Area, Richard Nedball, Mopar Engines West in Newark Ca. {he owns Fastmanefi, he's the author of the Book, How to Build Max Performance Hemi Engines too}, he's a Mopar Guy thru & thru, he could help also... 510-796-4313 http://www.moparengineswest.com/index.htm
 
I you are only looking for a couple of tenths look at maybe a cam change, converter change gear change... Personally I like the challenge of finding ET a little at a time rather than just throwing NOS or boost at it.

Any more specs on your combo?

Cam specs, converter stall speed, finish line rpm??? There are lots of places to find e t .

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I you are only looking for a couple of tenths look at maybe a cam change, converter change gear change... Personally I like the challenge of finding ET a little at a time rather than just throwing NOS or boost at it.

Any more specs on your combo?

Cam specs, converter stall speed, finish line rpm??? There are lots of places to find e t .
 
I was thinking a cam change converter {like 500 more RPM} or steeper gears too, get it out of the whole quicker...

Is it too "fat" now you put exhaust/mufflers system on it ??
have you retuned it ?? for the mufflers
or do you regularly tune it for conditions at the track ??

I think even a 1.6:1 or 1.7:1 rocker ratio change, if he has the room for more lift,
could also help too...

Maybe lighter Rims & tire, driveshaft etc., less reciprocating weight it will spin up faster...

No matter what you do it's all about HP/Weight ratios,
sounds like you've done allot to lighten her up already...
how fresh is the motor ??,
have you done a leak down test ??
less it weights, the easier it will run a #, with your HP levels...
Traction & getting good 60ft times, make up for allot of wasted ET,
MPH is HP mainly or the product of gear ratio...
 
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