Would it be worth having nos for a street only car?
done correctly,
why not ??
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I love all the people that think it's not worth it,
or it's cheating or something...
But a 50hp kit is hardly worth the expenses of doing it correctly so it will live,
a 125-150hp shot, set up properly, is not all that hard on parts/stuff...
IMHFO It's probably the Easiest & Cheapest way to boost power,
if it's set up correctly...
if not the easiest way to blow one up too. or burn a set of pistons...
N20 is -109* below zero @ 1200psi caring
{
super cooled boost in a bottle}
it's own added oxygen & added extra fuel dispersed with separate solenoids,
{preferably a dedicated system all stand alone pump,line & bypass style regulator}
all forced into the combustion camber under high pressure,
easily dropping et's & adding mph's...
I've ran cars with 3 kits, one plate under-carb,
one plumbed into the manifold as a spray bar kit,
one port nozzles at the bottom of the intake, shooting N20 & gas directly at the intake valves...
Any one of the kits could be adjusted up-to 500hp, the nozzle port kit was always on kill, the others were for different parts of the track & different types of track conditions, they all hit in a different ways, some harder or softer than others....
I never blew an engine because of a N20 problem...
But I'd highly suggest, that you need a really good bottom end,
forged components at a minimum
{especially good forged or billet, rods, pistons & crank},
& really good set of head gasket/head seal {I'd highly suggest using studs everywhere},
you need good ring/seals, with enough tension to seal, with the added "boost" bottle pressure
& good tough bearings, a good dedicated fuel system, appropriately sized for what your going to do...
a vacuum pump doesn't hurt either...
I'd highly suggest you have a way to retard the ignition, when the Juice is flowing,
especially anything over about 50hp shot...
there's a ton of electronic controllers & ignition aids/retards etc.,
now that make it pretty simple, plug & play almost...
good luck have fun
JUICE HER UP, GO FOR IT
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The reason to use a purge is you want to have liquid going to the plate.
Just the time between rounds the nos will go to a gas-vapor in the line.
So when you hit the nos you will have a lag where your system will be rich up to 3 seconds depending how much of the nos in the lines turns to a gas-vapor.
I love people who say they will never use nos.
It's only a tool to get more air-fuel into the engine.
Just remember,hp will find your weak link.
Pump Gas Street car runs 10.70's off the juice.
Deep into the 9's once on the juice,not the correct safety equipment.
well said,
For a actual street driven car, I went from 9.77 @ 135mph N/A, in my old 68 RR {sold to a friend}
3520#'s with a 300hp shot on my ol'-383/479ci Ported Eddy heads, .600 lift custom roller, 727tf, Turbo Action man. VB, 3800rpm stall would flash to 4200, with 3.73:1 geared {less with 4.10 & 4.30}, with leafs & CalTracs, Capps Tubular front end parts...
It went best of 8.58 @ 156mph on a "non prepped" track Sacramento Raceway 100*+ day test & tune,
on crappy ol' M/T drag radials...
It was docile as hell, I drove it all over Sac. & East Bay area, mild until you hit the skinny peddle & Juice...
It's about the whole combo, not just one part...
That car is still running today some 8-9 years latter, with many a N20 bottle gone thru it...
Just look out for a silver 68 RR, in Roseville area, it's allot faster than it looks like...
you'll be good to go I think. Usually when you hear people complain about Nos it is because they didn't do it right like retard timing 2 degrees for every 50hp, didn't use forged pistons, right head gasket or gap the rings
