No fire, ready to burn it!

Electrical & Ignition

  1. Bubba0

    Bubba0 Active Member

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    I got the harness laid out and can't get it to fire, 67 GTX, I put a 70's style alternator and a MoPar electronic dizzy in it. I ordered the harness from Year One for those to be plug and play. I get 6.5-+ to the + side of the coil, get a spark when turning the key on and off. Have tried the old known good dizzy, known good old coil. The harness has wires for a 4 terminal ballast that reads ohms correct and a newer style voltage regulator. Should fire right? Do I have to move some wires in the block maybe? 91001836_1275809395951081_5093461403486912512_n.jpg 91006694_140252370762734_763342432984104960_n.jpg 91178343_200638881217293_7927214446668152832_n.jpg
     
  2. aeon280

    aeon280 FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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    Show a picture of the back of the ign. switch. Also is the manual or auto trans?
     
  3. dvw

    dvw Well-Known Member

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    pin 1 at the ignition box should be hot from the dark blue wire from the ballast resistor in run only. It should be hot from the brown wire at the ballast resistor in crank only. If it loses voltage in either key position repair that circuit. Read here
    https://www.allpar.com/fix/electronic-ignition.html
     
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    • Don Frelier

      Don Frelier FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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      Check the two as DVW suggested.
      And those vice grips look kinda sketchy.
      Maybe put a rubber mat or something below them, or just a bolt and nut through the two wires for now.
      Let's hope it's not another bad ECU there has been quite a run of crap lately.
       
    • Demonic

      Demonic Well-Known Member

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      New paint? Maybe a poor ground at the ign box? Check all the pins at the bulkhead. The new ones need a good push because of the new foam gasket.

      Do something with the vise grips before you burn it up.
       
    • 69Bee

      69Bee FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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      You will need 10V or more for the ignition box to fire.
       
    • Ernie ingling

      Ernie ingling Well-Known Member

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      Now that predicament is a “dizzy”
       
    • Bubba0

      Bubba0 Active Member

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      It's an automatic

      91196518_571038457169320_4743624407283400704_n.jpg
       
    • Bubba0

      Bubba0 Active Member

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      That's how it is wired, can I get by pass the ballast temporary to eliminate it? It test like it should.
       
    • Bubba0

      Bubba0 Active Member

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      Does it matter the coil, read something they are different for electronic ign and points. But I tried with the old coil and it was good before the car was disassembled. I have a yellow Blaster coil on it
       
    • Bubba0

      Bubba0 Active Member

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      Can I use a 4 pin ECH with a 4 terminal ballast?
       
    • Don Frelier

      Don Frelier FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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      It should work with either coil.
      And yes you can use the 4 Pin ECU with the 4 terminal ballast, it's just that the one resistor in the ballast is unused.
      Try a temporary ground on the ECU, then a different ECU provided you have power during crank and run at the right pins.
      Let us know how you make out.
       
    • Durandal25

      Durandal25 FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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      hehe.....I see some wires there.
       
    • PLMHEMI

      PLMHEMI FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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      Had this issue in the past after adding electronic ignition, problem was the plug for the distributor was not making a connection.
       
    • aeon280

      aeon280 FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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      I had a similar issue but mine is a manual so ignition 2 is spliced I to ignition 1 in order to get full voltage to starter and the rest of ignition system. At first I only had ignition 1 hooked up and was only getting 6 volts at coil. On an auto I believe ignition 2 is part of the neutral safety switch circuit but not sure.
       
    • Bubba0

      Bubba0 Active Member

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      Got it figured out, my fault. Bought new bulkhead block, 2 brown wires one with a stripe , was backwards. Be glad when this money pit is done. :)
      Thanks for the help.
       
    • yella71

      yella71 Well-Known Member

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      Money pit????!!!! doh
       
    • superbeedave

      superbeedave Well-Known Member

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      I maybe wrong but if this is an automatic why is the starter relay for a manual with the yellow wire or am I loosing it?
       
      Last edited: Apr 4, 2020
    • 1 Wild R/T

      1 Wild R/T Well-Known Member

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      Not losing it... To late, already lost it...:poke::lol: The yellow wire is from the ignition switch... The brown wire goes to the neutral starter switch on an automatic, on manual starting I believe in 70 it goes to the clutch switch... The brown wire provides a path to ground for the control side of the starter relay...69 & earlier manual trans had a different design relay with no connection for the brown wire instead the control side of the relay was internally grounded... Picture below..

      Screen Shot 2020-04-04 at 10.56.48 PM.png
       
      • Thanks! Thanks! x 1
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