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Oh hell...

nutz4spd

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I got the 413 installed and running but man is it having trouble. It's popping through the carb on acceleration (I checked the wiring, timing, etc. It runs an MSD box and factory electronic dizzy) and the oil pressure isn't steady like it used to be. It's also has a very noticeable knock now. Would a bad lifter cause this loud of a knock and popping/rough idle? The motor ran fine before I pulled it out to paint it and such and nothing internally was removed the whole time.

Here's a video I took sitting inside the car.
 
Yup.
Time to pull the valve covers.
 
I've checked the wires 4 times. They're in the right order going counter clockwise 1,8,4,3,6,5,7,2. I took a better video and you can really hear the knocking on it. The sound seems central to the motor yet I notice it more on the cylinder 6 and 8 side/area. I pulled each plug wire for those cylinders to see if there was a change and there wasn't. When I had the oil pan off I checked to see if there were any loose rods and none of them moved any. They had some side to side play but no play around the crank journal. I am stumped and it sounds worse now than it did a few months ago before starting this little project. Go figure... and it's 2 days before the GoodGuys show here.
 
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What EXACTLY did you remove/reinstall on the engine? Looking through some of your earlier posts you say the engine was ticking and could have a bad lifter?

It shouldn't just spontaneously crap itself, so the more info on what you did the better.
 
What EXACTLY did you remove/reinstall on the engine? Looking through some of your earlier posts you say the engine was ticking and could have a bad lifter?

It shouldn't just spontaneously crap itself, so the more info on what you did the better.
I pulled it out. Removed the intake, distributor (being careful not to turn it or the crank), exhaust manifolds, oil pan, vc, water pump. and flywheel. Cleaned everything, painted and reinstalled it all. Installed a new pilot bushing too. I did turn the rotating assembly at one point to check and see if any of the lifters were not working properly but the dizzy was in at that point. I think...I do know with the timing mark on the balancer at zero, the rotor is pointed to the #1 wire.
 
You could have dropped something into the intake or intake port.
 
MSD's need GREAT grounds (and connections to power). Make sure the engine is grounded very well too. Sometimes running rough will generate mysterious noises. Loose torque converter bolts once had me thinking I had a rod knock.
 
MSD's need GREAT grounds (and connections to power). Make sure the engine is grounded very well too. Sometimes running rough will generate mysterious noises. Loose torque converter bolts once had me thinking I had a rod knock.
The MSD is grounded to the back of the block. The battery is grounded to the front of the block and the block is grounded to a stud where the master cylinder plate is on the firewall.
 
Use my MEF system of trouble shooting. You make sure your Mechanicals are ok, before your Electricals, and Fuel system. I learned that 55 years ago.
 
I got the 413 installed and running but man is it having trouble. It's popping through the carb on acceleration (I checked the wiring, timing, etc. It runs an MSD box and factory electronic dizzy) and the oil pressure isn't steady like it used to be. It's also has a very noticeable knock now. Would a bad lifter cause this loud of a knock and popping/rough idle? The motor ran fine before I pulled it out to paint it and such and nothing internally was removed the whole time.

Here's a video I took sitting inside the car.

Probably should have used a DISTRIBUTOR in lieu of "dizzy"......distributors just seem to work better. Try going back to the MOPAR ECU, standard Mopar coil and ballast resistor the MSD units have had issues.....mix matching components invites problems......just my opinion of course.....
BOB RENTON
 
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