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Some of this stuff may be overkill for a basic 383. for some of us it’s standard fare on any build. He’s a few pics of some of the stuff the guys are talking about. This is some of the prep I normally do. Attention to detail makes all the difference in the world. I rarely bolt anything together out of the box, everything can use some massaging. Flat tappet cam, espically pay extra attention to the lifter bores. I spend some time on the oil passages with a grinder, 1/2 pickup is usually a given for myself. Pumps need work too. Main oil feeds Cylinder bore chamfer on bottom
First I would only pushrod oil on high end stuff with high spring pressures. .040" is plenty. Doug
Always attention to bearing clearances. I like full grooves myself although I understand the argument. I worked with some nascar guys for a bit and they got away from the cross drilled cranks because it was aerating the oil at high rpm. Most builders have something that works for them though. No right or wrong if it works for that individual.
If still shaft oiling .020 to .025 is all you need.No oil hole in the adjuster is ideal for avoiding burnt PR cups!
Thanks. That part is taken care of. I'll measure one of my spare pushrods and see how close I am.
1 the lifters meter the oil so really does not matter 2 whatever smithbrothers recommends (the holes are already in the parts) I've made full grove oiling work too- whatever rings your bell cross drilling- there are other 3 way drilling that work centrifugal force fighting the oiling and all that great thread
While much of this is great "general knowledge" about potential BB Mopar Oiling Modifications that can be done ? IMO, NONE of this is req'd for this particular 383 application. No wars wanted, carry on.....
Agree but he can pick what he wants to do.
Uh finding a partially drilled main oil feed needs to be checked on every build thrust work on stick shifts
Thanks for all the reply's this is a lot of information to work with. I have another question related to rod bearing oiling ,the rod caps have a groove cut in them and it looks like it was done by hand with a cutoff wheel or something like that. The bearings had a small notch cut in them too. I bought the same bearings (CB-527P-10) that were originally in there and they do not have a notch in them. Do I need to cut a notch in the new bearings to match the groove? What is the purpose of the groove?
I also will be using a .528 purple shaft cam mechanical lift. I have read a few different things to depending on what type of cam and lifters you are running. Is there anything specific that needs to be done to run this cam? I am not new to building engines but, this is my first Mopar engine build and I don't want to miss anything.
Buy lifters with a EDM hole in lifters .
I already have cam and lifter kit and I don't think there is a hole in them.
I'm pretty sure that groove is for cylinder wall oiling. When the oil hole in the crank journal comes around and lines up with that groove, oil under pressure shoots out of there past the rod bolt and hits the cyl wall, or whatever it happens to be lined up with at that point of rotation. Not sure why that is needed, as oil is continuously being thrown off the rod journal as the motor spins.
Not a big deal. I use Rotella 15w-40 oil for dieel's or add zinc additive .
Lol, another Shell oil guy, station I worked at in high school stocked ‘Rimula’ non-detergent for airplane engines. The years fly by so fast.
The notch in the cap locates the bearing that has a tang that fits in the notch. How will you be measuring bearing clearance?
if you look opposite side of the bearing tang you can see groove in the cap and bearing. I will mike and use plastigauge to determine bearing clearance.