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OK! so here's another 440 overheating issue.

Yep! I believe I am going to do exactly that coloradodave this is what I found in my radiator along with no thermastat in the water pump. I would have thought the machine shop would have put one in but nope none in it I will install a 180 or 195 degree. franfs car 207.jpg
 

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Looks like a chemistry lab experiment gone bad...anything growing in there?
 
I can't believe I did not see all that Insulation and seed crap mice stuck in there. I prpbably would have been surprized if I Initialy stuck a small mirror In before I Inastalled the radiator. Going to get it dipped,cleanedand pressurized today.
 
Update! Well the motor is certainly cooling alot better now since the radiator was flushed and a 180 degree thermostat was installed. I still am going to have to change out the 16" six blade flex fan as it will get hotter at an idol. Thanks for everyones responces on my overheating issues.
 
Glad to hear it worked out for you. I know how these cooling issues can be never ending. I have a flex a lite vicious fan. 6 blades and works great.
 
Well I take everything back on overheating problem fixed its not. The car still heats up to 210/220 degrees while driving the car. I plan on removing the radiator in the car to better center it so I can install a larger fan possible a 6 or 7 blade flex a lite like am3rican also may remove the march pully system and edelbrock water pump. I have ton try a number of things before I spend money on an aluminum radiator thats going to cost more money.
 
If it's heating up while driving,it is not the fan.

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How was the rad flushed? You might still have a blockage somewhere impeding the coolant flow.
 
Well I take everything back on overheating problem fixed its not. The car still heats up to 210/220 degrees while driving the car. I plan on removing the radiator in the car to better center it so I can install a larger fan possible a 6 or 7 blade flex a lite like am3rican also may remove the march pully system and edelbrock water pump. I have ton try a number of things before I spend money on an aluminum radiator thats going to cost more money.

I have one suggestion,get rid of the flex a lite.it is not made for cooling.I posted this before,.030 440,actual 10.2 comp ratio,factory 3 core 22" radiator,shroud,fixed 7 blade factory fan,6 blade A/C pump and 180* thermostat.has never went above 195 and it has A/C.

P3090567.jpg
 
Just be patient on this. There is a lot of trial and error. Big blocks in general are notorious for this.

If you find that the temp goes down while moving, and the inverse while at idle or in stop and go, then you need a fan shroud to direct the air. That will likely solve your problem. Nonetheless, I would invest in a fixed blade fan. The flex fans cool okay but the fixed blade fans are better and safer. 62MAX is right. The 7 blade fans are awesome but they are a little pricey. You said you would have the radiator dipped, pressurized, etc. Is this what you did? Like Krowbar said, you may still have a blockage. Just flushing it with water is not enough. Did you burp the system afterward?

You should REALLY buy a laser temp gun off of Amazon. I bought one from less than $25 and it works great and is accurate. If you PM me, I can send you the link to the one I bought. It will help you diagnose whether your radiator is operating effectively and whether there are any hotspots.
 
I bought a laser temp gun and tried it on my motor I ran the engine for about30 minutes it got up to about 205 degrees on the gauge. The only place that got over 195 degrees was the water pump area its self about 20 degrees hotter than anywhere else.
I picked up a chrystler 18" steel blade fan and some steel pullies I plan on taking off the march pully system along with the edelbrock HP waterpump, recenter the radiator and shroud. I also did get some air bubbles out of the cooling system by raising the front of the car while running the motor. Hope that cures it.
 
You may also want to make sure you have good seals around the radiator. A missing hood to rad seal will allow air to flow right past the radiator no matter how good the radiator is.
 
I haven't had the chance to make the changes yet and probably wont for a few weeks so I will post the results as soon as I make all the changes thanks again.
 
I have now been thinking about installing an aluminum radiator and yes! I am going to ask which one for my car.
I have the 22" opening and would like one to cool the 440 borerd 0.030, over aluminum edelbrock heads, mild cam, compression
10 to 1 485 HP / 535 ft.lbs. of torque. I also would like to use a 7 blade 18" steel fan with a shroud. What recommendations do
you guys think or go 26" champion has one 22" good to 700 HP way to maney options out there.
 
I have now been thinking about installing an aluminum radiator and yes! I am going to ask which one for my car.
I have the 22" opening and would like one to cool the 440 borerd 0.030, over aluminum edelbrock heads, mild cam, compression
10 to 1 485 HP / 535 ft.lbs. of torque. I also would like to use a 7 blade 18" steel fan with a shroud. What recommendations do
you guys think or go 26" champion has one 22" good to 700 HP way to maney options out there.

I just received and returned a Champion radiator due to its poor quality (you get what you pay for). Additionally, my 1969 26" stock fan shroud didn't fit. I bought a US Radiator aluminum radiator from Classic Industries. Saved $80 with their 20% discount.
 
I heard you say aftermarket March Pulley system. Was the waterpump being "under-driven" by that? Just saying. It's always the simple stuff.
 
I believe yes! it is pully on the crank is about 2" smaller than the waterpump pully. Does this make a big difference?
 
champion cc375 good to 700 horse my ***. fought overheating issues for six months. Never suspected my new radiator. Installed a griffin muscle car series. 2 rows 1.25 tubes. problem solved.What were new head gaskets a jetting kit and jugs of antifreeze and water wetter worth.Plus 6 months of aggravation. Should have bought a good radiator off the bat.
 
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