OK, Wizzards

[1STMP]

1968 440, .030 over, 480/480, 230/230 @ .050
109lsa. Valve springs are Sealed Power w/100
closed/286 open. What available modern day
camshaft would work with this 26 year old
technology? I really don't want to be changing
valve springs should a cam failure occur.
This engine was rebuilt 26 years ago, and just
recently broke in. I'm not looking for killer
numbers. just want something a little hotter
than stock.
2300-2500 stall converter
1-7/8 custom headers
3.55 A/R Suregrip
1-1/2" custom tube frame
Approx finished GVW 3600 lbs
Engine: .030 over (8.0/8.5/9.0) CR?
(head work/gasket thk unknown)
L2266F pistons
forged crank/internally ballanced
452 heads untouched
Performer dual plane
Holley 750 cfm carb.
OEM oil pump/remote mt filter (6 qt system)
3000 cfm electric fan/3 core aluminum rad
Elec Holley fuel pump
Thanks in advance

 

[33 IMP]

My guess is the 26 year old lifters have better metallurgy than anything you can find today. I wouldn't change a thing....
The 230/480 cam is a nice gentle chevy grind in a Mopar, and probably 10-15° wilder than a stocker. If broken in properly, will probably last a long time.

 

[fratzog lover]

Stock was 213/225 .450/.458. Is it not running sharp? What is your distributor setup? I know it was a while ago but do you know where the cam was degreed at?

 

[67charger383]

No reason to buy a new flat tappet cam today with all the problems going on...

A solid roller is the only option

 

[RemCharger]

My guess is the 26 year old lifters have better metallurgy than anything you can find today. I wouldn't change a thing....
The 230/480 cam is a nice gentle chevy grind in a Mopar, and probably 10-15° wilder than a stocker. If broken in properly, will probably last a long time.

it sounds like a 280 magnum? Yeah those were ok, had one in a 383 with worse cubes and compression still ran around a 14.0, full 67 charger. A buddy later ran it in same configuration but 440 around 13.5

 

[1STMP]

Stock was 213/225 .450/.458. Is it not running sharp? What is your distributor setup? I know it was a while ago but do you know where the cam was degreed at?

Runs good. With great throttle response. No
chance to cruise it under load yet, as it's not
licensed for the road.
Distributor is from 440 Source. Ready to run,
internal electronics (no box).
I have no idea
where the cam was set, but do know there's 4
deg built in. (TRW-TP238).

 

[forphorty]

From the numbers given , I suspect that may be a Comp 280 Magnum or something similar. I think that would work really well with what you have. I've got a Comp 292 in my 440 and love it. Cam is still hangin' in there after 30 plus years and lotsa miles. Stock rockers and pushrods, 2266s , 906s, Torker intake ,750 dp, 1/78 headers, 10 inch 3500 converter and 3.23s. Ran 12.35 in a 68 Sat with 28x9 slicks. I'm with Imp on this. Those old gentle grinds are easy on the valvetrain.

 

[RemCharger]

1968 440, .030 over, 480/480, 230/230 @ .050
109lsa. Valve springs are Sealed Power w/100
closed/286 open. What available modern day
camshaft would work with this 26 year old
technology? I really don't want to be changing
valve springs should a cam failure occur.
This engine was rebuilt 26 years ago, and just
recently broke in. I'm not looking for killer
numbers. just want something a little hotter
than stock.
2300-2500 stall converter
1-7/8 custom headers
3.55 A/R Suregrip
1-1/2" custom tube frame
Approx finished GVW 3600 lbs
Engine: .030 over (8.0/8.5/9.0) CR?
(head work/gasket thk unknown)
L2266F pistons
forged crank/internally ballanced
452 heads untouched
Performer dual plane
Holley 750 cfm carb.
OEM oil pump/remote mt filter (6 qt system)
3000 cfm electric fan/3 core aluminum rad
Elec Holley fuel pump
Thanks in advance

In your question here, you said you wanted hotter than stock.
What you have there is definitely hotter than stock. Don't over think it.

 

[fratzog lover]

Ah! This is for the 1940 business coupe.

 

[1STMP]

In your question here, you said you wanted hotter than stock.
What you have there is definitely hotter than stock. Don't over think it.

This I know. The question is what cam (today)
could replace this cam without a spring change.
One that is hotter than stock, given the
stated spring pressures. Thanks.

 

[1STMP]

Ah! This is for the 1940 business coupe.

PT-105 Pickup....thanks for the recognition.

 

[67charger383]

This I know. The question is what cam (today)
could replace this cam without a spring change.
One that is hotter than stock, given the
stated spring pressures. Thanks.

Call up Comp.

 

[1STMP]

Call up Comp.

The easy way out. What if I would choose
another cam manufacturer/distributor?
I don't or wouldn't have the patience to
call them all. I'm drawing on the knowledge
of those here, where 90% of any problem with my
first Mopar has been answered. Great bunch!

 

[67charger383]

The easy way out. What if I would choose
another cam manufacturer/distributor?
I don't or wouldn't have the patience to
call them all. I'm drawing on the knowledge
of those here, where 90% of any problem with my
first Mopar has been answered. Great bunch!

They'll give you specs on the phone.
You can just give those specs to Schneider, Bullet, etc

 

[RemCharger]

I think basically what you want is the newer version of that type of cam.. I would call it the 274 xe. Better low end, and better top end, than a 280 mag.

 

[1STMP]

This is really just a quiz of those here that may
have already gone thru this scenario. My cam
(after break in) is intact and working. What
was considered radical from yesteryear has
lacked in traceable transitions of today. Short
of rebuilding an entire valvetrain, there should
be insertable newer technologies that will
work with older builds. Saving time, labor,
and dollars. ie....will a cam with a .488 lift
work in the place of a .480 lift cam, with
minimal changes. Most cam manufacturers
want you to purchase their "recommend'
components as part of their warranties.
Is it really a marketing ploy where they can sell
more parts? We're talking close comparisons
here.

 

[RemCharger]

Nows not the time to buy new ****. It's bad out there. Try it out? Tune it up?

 

[1STMP]

I think basically what you want is the newer version of that type of cam.. I would call it the 274 xe. Better low end, and better top end, than a 280 mag.

But, will that work with the 100/286 valve springs?

 

[1STMP]

Nows not the time to buy new ****. It's bad out there. Try it out? Tune it up?

It's just been broke in and working fine. The
question is, what cam (from any manufacturer)
could effectively replace my cam without any
other changes to the valvetrain.

 

[69L48Z27]

If you look at the cam spec of Comp or Hughes they will tell you either what part number spring you should have or spec. Hughes cards give the spring spec. The springs you have will work with just about anything hydraulic until you get into big lift. Just comes down to RPM and valve float. You can also shim springs to get a couple more #’s out of them. I will say 100# at the seat and 286# open sounds very stock. May only get you to 5500 RPM regardless of cam. All my opinion, just trying to answer your question directly.