One wire alt upgrade

[Nyfinest]

Hey fellow mopar lovers
I’m in the process of upgrading to power master 165 A one wire , I’m looking to take load off the ammeter which I think I’m going to have to bypass and I also know I have to do the bulkhead bypass , I’m also doing the “ big 3” upgrade under the hood using 2 gauge cable . I’m also putting a 200 amp manual reset fuse / circuit breaker on the power cable from alt to bat
Any input or advise plz

Ps
The reasons for this is due to a lot of goodies I have going on that my current 60 amp alt can’t handle and I’m sorry if it’s a repeat thread but I’m looking to get fresh eyes and advice

 

[70chall440]

I am not sure that a 1 wires is really an "upgrade" but you do you. You are on the right track overall, my advice is

1. google the bypass, its outlined in depth on pretty much every Mopar forum.

2. pre-pan all routing and use quality wire

3. take car in terminating your wires making sure to get a solid connection. I like to crimp and solder but many like to just crimp. Regardless use quality crimping tools

4. test everything as you go

 

[68-500]

If you source your accessories off the alternator, you won’t be adding any load to your amp meter. Even with an alternator capable of 165a your battery will only draw a limited amount of amps.

 

[451Mopar]

Run alternator to battery through your new fuse. Do not use the original alternator wire at all.
Get a multi-relay / multi-fuse power distribution box for your loads.
I connected the battery and alternator bulkhead connectors together running through a single 16 gauge fusible link.
That shares the battery power through both bulkhead connectors to each side of the Ammeter if it is still connected.
The main power wires to the ignition switch and fuse box are only 12 gauge wire, so don't bring the alternator power through to the dash.
I use a power distribution box (powered from the battery/ammeter junction) to power the headlights, cooling fans, A/C clutch, and other accessories.
I'm experimenting with taking load off the under hood ignition circuit(s) IGN1 and IGN2 from the dash switch. The changes adds a buffer/delay to prevent short intermittent loss of key power from upsetting the ignition power. Currently I'm trying a 1 second delay. Basically you could turn the ignition key off for just under a second, and back on, and the output won't drop. IGN1 and IGN2 are both connected to the delay through diodes so the new IGN1 power out is constant when cranking while ballast by-pass power is still provided. Basically a clean ignition power for the EFI, and still retains the ballast resistor function if using stock ignition (compared to just wiring IGN1 and IGN2 together.)
I know, it's overkill to crutch old wiring and ignition switch which should likely be replaced. Trying this for a friend who did EFI and it intermittently stops working, and don't know the condition of the ignition switch or wiring.

I plan to check / test my first generation Holley Sniper EFI to see if it has any buffering/delay for single event upsets of the ignition power (Pink wire, not the main power wire going to the battery.)