Overheating engine problems

[Remusa12]

I have a fresh built 440, it has an aluminum water pump and housing with an aluminum Radiator. The cap is a stant 10230 16# it has an engine fan and auxiliary electric fans that come on at 220. It seems like the water sprays out of the rad cap starting around 195 until it hits higher and starts pouring out of the overflow. The gauge said 250 before I noticed because there was no steam or smoke coming out anywhere.

 

[Remusa12]

It came back down to 190 with the electric fans and shut off but then the battery died after 20 minutes and had to be boosted and started having electrical issues like the tac stopped working and brake lights not coming on.

 

[747mopar]

Are you sure something isn't plugged up?

 

[Remusa12]

I had water flowing through the block when it was bare and all the hoses are hot the heaters not hooked up but it is blocked instead of looped right now I wasn't able to get hose ends at the time. I believe water is flowing as it should.

 

[Don Frelier]

Timing and mixture are correct?
Lean mixture will run very hot.
Not sure why the engine fan is insufficient?
I would start the electric fans sooner, their effect is not instant if you are behind and the temperature is rising it will still rise for a minute or two even after they start.
Good sized fans will take some power was the 20 minutes just at idle?

 

[Remusa12]

It was sitting shut off with the fans running I figure that's what killed it but the timing is at 41 with about 8to1 compression and the mixture should be right but the power valve is blown

 

[diesel_lv]

If you actually meant 41° for timing, that's way too high. Try idle about 12-14° depending on cam. Coolant should not reach 16# at 195°, sounds like a bad cap. If cap is bad, Coolant is going to continue to get hotter. Yes, even "new" caps can be bad. Go to your local parts store and have cap tested to insure that it's good or bad to 16#. Then, only fill the radiator to about 1" below bottom of filler neck. But the most obvious is coolant spraying out of cap at only 195°.

 

[Mick56]

Get a coolant recovery bottle. Then you can keep the radiator filled to the top, instead of an inch or two down.
Still seems like something else wrong though.

 

[451Mopar]

Coolant should not reach 16# at 195°, sounds like a bad cap.

If coolant is spraying at 195 degrees, the cap is not sealing. There should be very little pressure below boiling point.

 

[diesel_lv]

If coolant is spraying at 195 degrees, the cap is not sealing. There should be very little pressure below boiling point.

Precisely my point. There is no way to boil over a 14# cap under 220° much less a 16# cap. Probably needs to measure how far down from top of filler neck to where rubber should seal at n make sure cap fits properly. But it's definitely bad either way. Weak or not sealing.

 

[Ron H]

Kind of a simple toss in - is the thermo ok? I run a lower stat 160 I think since it's a summer car. A few have said they run no thermo; but others say this can defeat the function of the rad to have time to cool the coolant. Another possible issue saying 'fresh build' is the motor will run hotter during break in. Chasing down my overheat problems that went away was a lower ratio of anti-freeze to water (my car sits in a heated garage during winter anyway), I added an OEM shroud and 7 blade fan (originally 4 blade). I was pondering on an electric fan; but heard those can actually inhibit air flow so opted out of doing this. I noticed I always had super high oil pressure and read that higher vis oils can increase engine heat (was running 20-50). Since my car isn't a racer, I dropped it to 10-30 high zinc as I have solid lifters. Oil p came down where it should be. As posted, running too lean can also increase engine temp. Did a couple more things; but no issue with overheating now.