Parallel wiring diagram

[RT69440]

I have read numerous references to Nacho-RT74’s parallel wiring diagram that allows you to keep your ammeter, but eliminate the risk of burning up your car. Can someone please provide me with the link to the diagram?

 

[Gold Rush]

Ammeter to Voltmeter Conversion -- Existing Wire Question

Starting with post #59 will give you some ideas for sure.....

 

[RT69440]

Ammeter to Voltmeter Conversion -- Existing Wire Question

Starting with post #59 will give you some ideas for sure.....

Thank you!

 

[gkent]

Y'kow, I can count the number of burnt up cars I've heard about in the last 55 years on one hand and have 4 fingers left over! And that one had nothing to do with the ammeter !!! And I've never seen one in a wrecking yard either.

 

[dadsbee]

Y'kow, I can count the number of burnt up cars I've heard about in the last 55 years on one hand and have 4 fingers left over! And that one had nothing to do with the ammeter !!! And I've never seen one in a wrecking yard either.

Yep! Burnt the wiring in the '69 Fury II when I was 16. Stuck VR and I forgot to throw on the headlights to bounce it back to reality. Fire started off the + feed right behind the firewall bulkhead...no where near the amp meter.

 

[RT69440]

Y'kow, I can count the number of burnt up cars I've heard about in the last 55 years on one hand and have 4 fingers left over! And that one had nothing to do with the ammeter !!! And I've never seen one in a wrecking yard either.

I understand what you mean. I’m 60 and have owned Mopars all of my life, and, other than overheated blower motor wires, never had an issue. But now I have a ‘68 GTS that I added AC, electric fan, sound system, and Gear Vendors control to. The black wire from the ammeter has melted the insulation and the bulkhead connector. And fried the wire itself and the connectors.

 

[Mr. Mike]

My 1964 Plymouth has all of 35 amps alternator output, wasn't much optional electrics back then.
Mopar started filling the bulkhead connector cavities with grease to fight corrosion that caused all sorts of electrical gremlins.
Later they went with continuous wiring harnesses.

 

[bobsgtx]

How many amps will a 67 ammeter take? I'm replacing my alternator with a 65 amp and going to bypass the bulkhead connect but go threw the ammeter?

 

[Nacho-RT74]

The ammeter doesn't take the load of the alternator, just the battery juice coming in or out. The bulkhead however takes all the car load. Not necesarily the full alternator output, but all the car load demand PLUS the juice the batt demands when is discharged. It can be or not the full alt capacity depending of the alt capacity and speed.

The ammeter will be safe as far the less load is sucked from the batt, and this is only posible with an alt able to source the most as posible and the slower speed as posible since the 95% of the load is sucked from the alt side of the charging network with the stock configuration. This also keeps safer the wiring because we are eliminating the batt as a load sucker device when is discharged. But still the bulkhead is the weakest point.

I suggest a parallel wiring system while you want to keep the existant wiring in working order, but can also be eliminated completelly with a bigger wire throught the firewall. Several ways to make it.

 

[bobsgtx]

Thanks Nacho.

 

[Nacho-RT74]

Some ppl is not agree about use a parallel wire but eliminate the stock one and go just throught the firewall with a new one ( tipically 8 gauge ) because thinks the parallel route keeping the stock one is still a troublemaker ( which is ok, is about prefferences or fears ) but is not. The power runs throught the less resistance path, but once its limits begins to get reach the original path is still available to be used by the extra load required but safely since is less than the original use. Keeping the stock one you could use 10 gauge or even 12 for the parallel.

Also keep the stock one provides an extra "leg" to source the main splice aside not just the one between amm and splice removing the stock one and using just a new one bypassing completelly the bulkhead.

I have REALLY DAILY DRIVEN my car for 5-7 years with this mod without problems. Unfortunately my car is dissasembled since 9 years on a deep resto job and I can't show a vid about how it works and how my amm responds flawlessly down diff load requirements... aside I'm 6500 miles from it

If you analize the A/C wiring ( and I guess heater is the same or pretty much similar ), is based/wired on parallel paths too, where when you set any blower speed but low, the power goes to that route with the less resistance HOWEVER the low speed path is still active/hot. The low speed is the default speed still disconecting the blower speed selector.

 

[bobsgtx]

Thanks.