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Piston Ring Compressor

roadrunnerh

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Hello guys!
I'm going to be purchasing a ring compressor for my 383 piston installation. I was going to get one of the Chinese made ratcheting band style, then came across the ARP 4.250 tapered ring compressor. The band style is only $10 or so, the ARP is $55.
Which have YOU used? This is my first time building an engine, ARP route sounds less likely to break/damage a ring.
 
I have used the corrugated style with the overcenter lever. They work well for me, the inside of the corrugation compressing the rings, the outside keeping the compressor from going into the cylinders.
That being said... the single size tapered aluminum compressors really work slick. I made myself three, 4.030 ,4.155, and 4.350. I have NOT tried the adjustable tapered compressors. If i need something i dont have, i use my corregated one.
 
Hello guys!
I'm going to be purchasing a ring compressor for my 383 piston installation. I was going to get one of the Chinese made ratcheting band style, then came across the ARP 4.250 tapered ring compressor. The band style is only $10 or so, the ARP is $55.
Which have YOU used? This is my first time building an engine, ARP route sounds less likely to break/damage a ring.

Tapered are way easier to use. Really, the problem is the ratcheting strap type with smooth sides will want to try and slide into the block with the piston because of the chamfer at the top of the bore, and also, most people over tighten the compressor thinking it will help, but make the problem worse because it is now holding the piston tighter.
Anyhow, The ARP ones are nice. I haven't tried the Total Seal version. I hear they are good, and only cost $37.55

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tsr-rc4250/overview/
 
I'm a Machinist so over the years it took nothing for me to take a piece of heavy walled
tubing and stick it in the lathe. I love the tapered installers because you can push the
piston in with your thumb. If the machine shop puts more than a 32nd chamfer on
the bores, the ratcheting ones won't work so good. The other option that works is the
clamp-type. They compress the rings 350 degrees, so it's the next best thing.
 
Ya got me on that one! (shhhhh! Don't tell anyone)
 
Summit makes an adjustable one for under $30. I’ve used all three and the more you pay the better the experience but all three work.
 
Back in '74 when I did my first build the only affordable ring compressor was the ratchet band type. It has served me well on numerous builds. As for it trying to slip down the bore because of the small chamfer, not a big issue as it has dimples (for lack of a better term) around the bottom that prevent that. Maybe the above user had his upside down !?!? The fixed tapered type will only work on ONE bore size - so for the money you better be doing a lot of the same builds!!
 
The one i use is a Lisle brand "wrinkle band" . It works well for me. It will do my straight eight bore, 3.25 , up to a big block chevy 4.600 . Inexpensive and very functional.
 
In a pinch I have used a soup can and a pair of pliers. Luckily it was a Harley so I only had to do two slugs. It was Won Ton soup ... so Chinese stuff works fine !!
 
What do you use on a W series motor?
I dont know for sure, but since the combustion chamber is in the cylinder , not the head, there is a relief, above where the rings reach, that allows a band compressor.

Did you know that ford has a block with the odd deck like a 409? Its called a mel, mercury-edsel-lincoln.
 
good answer
several motors like the 348-409-Z11
PITA
but to see Dino Don vs Hayden Proffit on Vogue tires was worth it
 
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