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Poly 318 4bbl conversion goes splat

Dave145

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Howdy everyone! Been a minute since I posted on here. I have a '64 Polara with the poly 318 under the hood. TF pushbutton trans, and 3.23 gears out back. Not a racecar by any means, just a cool old cruiser.

First let me tell you about my motor and setup. The motor was "refreshed" in 2019. Rings, honed cylinders, bearings, timing chain, gaskets and paint. Lapped the valves but otherwise did no heavy machine work to either the block or the heads. The car always ran decent for what it was in stock form as a 2 bbl with points. That being said, I got a little hungry for more power and I seem to have fell off the wagon somewhere. First I added electronic ignition using the mopar performance kit. Then I recurved the distributor and played with the timing (Current setup as of today is 12* initial, 34* all in by 3200rpm, 50-52* vacuum advance hooked up). I also played with the valves, running the FSM recommended .013 and .021 at first, then .015 and .023, all the way up to .017 and .025. For grins I tried running them down at .010 and .020 at the suggestion from a friend, and I didn't notice anything special. The car ran...ok. Definitely had a bit more power but not by much. Then I added dual 2.25" exhaust from front to back with an H pipe and turbo mufflers. Didnt seem to change much. So then I decided to track down a factory single 4bbl manifold off I believe a '61 Dodge and added a Summit Racing 500cfm vacuum secondary carb and a spacer on top of it.

This is where I fell off the wagon.

The car is now a bigger dog than it ever was. For grins I shot it down a 1/4 mile stretch of road by me, in stock form, modified out of the box form, and "tuned form". As a 2bbl, I could chirp the tires from a standing stop and run a 16.XX second 1/4 mile. In modified out of the box form, I ran 18.XX seconds. Finally in "tuned form" (re-jetted, played with squirters and secondary opening, etc.) I ran...wait for it...19.xx seconds. All of these tests were performed a year ago all pretty much within a week of each other on the same road with pretty similar weather conditions. Did I forget to mention my fuel economy with regular driving decreased drastically too? Went from around 17 with my Stromberg WW 2bbl to roughly 10.

You could say I'm pretty stumped. I'm not exactly new to tuning old engines and carburetors, but this one is a head scratcher for me. Especially since everywhere I read online says that doing nothing other than adding a 4bbl manifold and carb supposedly really wakes up the poly. I'm pretty limited on funds at the moment so a new cam or even an engine swap is out of the question for me so I'm just trying to work with what I have.

I pulled the intake and carb back off figuring maybe an intake gasket was leaking, but it doesn't appear to be the case. Prior to removal, the motor made 18-19" of vacuum at both the carb and intake fittings and didn't burn any oil or coolant. I pulled my plugs and they all look good except for #2 which has the slightest amount of oil on it. Otherwise they were all even colored all the way around.


Any ideas?

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I would take a closer look at the timing. 32 degrees by 3200 seems late to me and have you tried bumping the initial timing up until it just pings and back it off a couple degrees?
 
Yes I did. I tried 14* but it would ping if I got on it too much from a standing stop and would really ping badly going up a hill.

The kept the timing the same with both the 2bbl and 4bbl setups just so I could have an apples to apples comparison.
 
That 500 cfm carb is too lean and too small, I would suspect. You might be pinging form being lean. I'd try a Holley 600 with #66 in the primarys for a start. You will need more timing with a 4bbl vs the 2. 12* should be good, try limiting the vacuum advance.
 
For a short while I had an edelbrock 600 or 650 on it, but I can't say I noticed a difference between that and what I have now. Most online calculators say for a 318 that I shouldn't need more than 400cfm or so for a street car or even 500cfm for a race car. I'm open to try anything, but looking at my plugs it appears that my idle is rather fat (which I kinda knew because it stunk pretty bad) and my cruise circuit is adequate but maybe just a touch lean??

When I get the motor put back together (intake is still off right now) I will play with the timing some more and see what happens.

I guess I'm just torn as to whether or not I should just put the 2bbl manifold back on because I knew it for the most part worked, or if I should keep banging my head against the wall with this 4bbl setup.
 
The old saying> "If it ain't broke, don't fix it" comes to mind here.... Sorry, couldn't resist. :poke:
 
Howdy everyone! Been a minute since I posted on here. I have a '64 Polara with the poly 318 under the hood. TF pushbutton trans, and 3.23 gears out back. Not a racecar by any means, just a cool old cruiser.

First let me tell you about my motor and setup. The motor was "refreshed" in 2019. Rings, honed cylinders, bearings, timing chain, gaskets and paint. Lapped the valves but otherwise did no heavy machine work to either the block or the heads. The car always ran decent for what it was in stock form as a 2 bbl with points. That being said, I got a little hungry for more power and I seem to have fell off the wagon somewhere. First I added electronic ignition using the mopar performance kit. Then I recurved the distributor and played with the timing (Current setup as of today is 12* initial, 34* all in by 3200rpm, 50-52* vacuum advance hooked up). I also played with the valves, running the FSM recommended .013 and .021 at first, then .015 and .023, all the way up to .017 and .025. For grins I tried running them down at .010 and .020 at the suggestion from a friend, and I didn't notice anything special. The car ran...ok. Definitely had a bit more power but not by much. Then I added dual 2.25" exhaust from front to back with an H pipe and turbo mufflers. Didnt seem to change much. So then I decided to track down a factory single 4bbl manifold off I believe a '61 Dodge and added a Summit Racing 500cfm vacuum secondary carb and a spacer on top of it.

This is where I fell off the wagon.

The car is now a bigger dog than it ever was. For grins I shot it down a 1/4 mile stretch of road by me, in stock form, modified out of the box form, and "tuned form". As a 2bbl, I could chirp the tires from a standing stop and run a 16.XX second 1/4 mile. In modified out of the box form, I ran 18.XX seconds. Finally in "tuned form" (re-jetted, played with squirters and secondary opening, etc.) I ran...wait for it...19.xx seconds. All of these tests were performed a year ago all pretty much within a week of each other on the same road with pretty similar weather conditions. Did I forget to mention my fuel economy with regular driving decreased drastically too? Went from around 17 with my Stromberg WW 2bbl to roughly 10.

You could say I'm pretty stumped. I'm not exactly new to tuning old engines and carburetors, but this one is a head scratcher for me. Especially since everywhere I read online says that doing nothing other than adding a 4bbl manifold and carb supposedly really wakes up the poly. I'm pretty limited on funds at the moment so a new cam or even an engine swap is out of the question for me so I'm just trying to work with what I have.

I pulled the intake and carb back off figuring maybe an intake gasket was leaking, but it doesn't appear to be the case. Prior to removal, the motor made 18-19" of vacuum at both the carb and intake fittings and didn't burn any oil or coolant. I pulled my plugs and they all look good except for #2 which has the slightest amount of oil on it. Otherwise they were all even colored all the way around.


Any ideas?

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View attachment 1308049

View attachment 1308050
Another '64 Polara 4-door hardtop! Here's mine. I replaced my 313 ( Canadian ) with a 413, and now a 440. I can't help you with your carb problem other than to say that something is drastically wrong to slow down so much, with big change in mileage.

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That is odd. Before I rebuilt my ’63 poly, I added dual exhaust, 4bbl, mopar el ignition, sure-grip 3:23 swapping out to a ’65 Coronet rear, shift-kit. I never ran the car on a track; but there was a distinct nice pop with giddy-up. Later the motor was seriously upgraded, now .60 over, mild cam, solid lifters, 340 rods, 5-way valve job, modern TC, eddy 650 carb, 3:55 gears. Lol, didn’t realize motor had been redone in the early 80’s +.30 with hardened seats – was a CA car so seemed logical this work would a been done. Results? Top end great improvement – bottom? I couldn’t tell ya any difference. One thing is I’m running full-mech advance (issue with adjusting I need to tackle yet).

Guys on the forum knowing more than me have said my hassle could likely be due to timing and even an ill-set cam or chain. Maybe the old dist I installed with the el kit needs upgrading, since it is pert-near 20 years old. Runs like a top, any putzing with vac-advance results in miss-firing btw 2500-3500 RPM, depending on the adjust, so left it as is for now...for reasons beyond my control - CTS surgeries.
 
Yes I did. I tried 14* but it would ping if I got on it too much from a standing stop and would really ping badly going up a hill.

The kept the timing the same with both the 2bbl and 4bbl setups just so I could have an apples to apples comparison.
Did you degree the cam?
 
Another '64 Polara 4-door hardtop! Here's mine. I replaced my 313 ( Canadian ) with a 413, and now a 440. I can't help you with your carb problem other than to say that something is drastically wrong to slow down so much, with big change in mileage.

View attachment 1308128

View attachment 1308129
That is sweet! Someday mine will be the same...some day...
 
I did not. I simply installed the timing chain dot to dot like the factory had done
Did you change the cam? I didn’t see that mentioned but if you did and didn’t degree it that’s part of your problem
it could be anywhere from retarded to way advanced and the former would kill your power.
 
I did not. I simply installed the timing chain dot to dot like the factory had done.
Well that could very well be your oops moment.I would never trust a dot to dot. Don't even ask me why. Point is you cant buy these parts without verifying everything.
 
Has the cam been changed with the other additions? If not, is it the original cam? Have you done a compression test?
No it has not been changed. I couldn't afford to have mine sent out to be reground when I refreshed the engine so it was cleaned up and re-installed as-is. I've seen reference to the fact that 4bbl cams were larger in terms of lift and duration, but I'm not sure exactly how much larger they were.

I did a compression test before the refresh and it was a disappointment. Most cylinders were between 95 and 110.
 
Well that could very well be your oops moment.I would never trust a dot to dot. Don't even ask me why. Point is you cant buy these parts without verifying everything.
I suppose anything is possible. Most afterbirth parts available these days are so-so at best it seems.
 
What are your compression checks now?
 
What are your compression checks now?
I have not done any currently. I just have the intake off to address an oil leak at the front seal. I can check it hopefully sometime next week. We only honed the cylinders and replaced the rings, so honestly I don't expect there to be much improvement.
 
I feel kinda bad for you as the duals, intake, 600 Edelbrock was one of the best things I did when I had my 64 Poly.
Other items I added was Pretronix I ignition.Later a set of TTI headers and their complete exhaust system.
Last but not least was a set of 3.23's to replace the 2.76 gears.
Sorry to say I have no ideas for you.

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