Possibly warped hood?

[72 charger]

I had my 72 charger soda blasted. When we went to pick it up everything looked pretty good besides a few areas that looked like they had been warped on the hood. The guy said that it was because the skin wasnt attached to the frame of the hood by something he called "anti-flutter foam". Any ideas on if this could be true? Its only dimpled in between the supports of the hood from the top. Id post pictures but its hard to see. Ultimately my question is can this be fixed? and how.

 

[72Satellite440]

Hmmm its likely this is going to be difficult to repair...sounds like too much heat was generated and caused the waves ...doesnt sound like soda blasting to me...sounds like sand...
thats rough- sry man
Did he guarentee his work at all?
Can we get some pics up...

 

[72 charger]

I can try and get some pics but it would be hard to see the waves. And it was soda that he used but i just dont get why the hood was the only thing that warped. And i dont think he would do anything about it. He pointed it out when we picked up the car but he told us that it was because there was nothing connecting the skin to the braces with what he called "anti-flutter foam".

 

[Stumper]

The hood "skin" is usually glued to the frame with body caulk. Quite frequently it breaks apart over time. Look on the underside of your hood and you will likely see numerous globs between the frame and the top skin - and likely see that some are broken. Get your self a tube of body caulk and reglue it by applying some new globs and then setting something on the frame to hold it together for a day to dry. If it is still warped after repairing the broken seals then it was warped somehow in the cleaning.

 

[Donny]

Humm, interesting...Soda should not generate the heat, but, the force/pressure can deform metal, there is some validity to the underside of the hood coming undone, but, there's ways to counter that; what I do is put large pieces of foam under the hood supporting it from the middle to the edges, hit it at a 60 degree angle from 18 or more inches away, really lean mixture, if I hit Bondo then I stop and scrape it off as nailing bondo to take it off will work; but, it can also generate the heat -- big time! Pics please.

 

[72 charger]

Here is a pic of the underside. You can see its not attached with the glue. I tried taking pics of the skin where it dips etc. but you cannot tell from the pics. But i can say that it only dips in between where the braces are.

 

[72Satellite440]

Hmm there shouldnt be a dip there at all..I think either he stepped/kneeled on it by accident or there was prev damage and the blasting took off the repair..imo

 

[72 charger]

Hmm there shouldnt be a dip there at all..I think either he stepped/kneeled on it by accident or there was prev damage and the blasting took off the repair..imo

I dont think that was the case because there are four distinct spots that there are waves. Like I said all in between the braces. But when I push under neath of them they seem to pop up fairly easy from what i think is the old glue. Most of the glue if its still even there it is not attached to the skin. So im thinking that it is because of the glue so maybe ill try that first before i go out and get a new hood. But if anyone else has another idea let me have it.

 

[Donny]

Well, I don't make any promises when I blast, if I break something, I'm honest and fess up to it, either I pay for it, or do it all for a compromise price, lots of time people get their feelings hurt when stuff comes back needing far more work than they ever anticipated due to hidden damages/rust etc. Just look at my Chevelle thread for a recent history of that headache.

 

[72Satellite440]

I dont think that was the case because there are four distinct spots that there are waves. Like I said all in between the braces. But when I push under neath of them they seem to pop up fairly easy from what i think is the old glue. Most of the glue if its still even there it is not attached to the skin. So im thinking that it is because of the glue so maybe ill try that first before i go out and get a new hood. But if anyone else has another idea let me have it.

Sry I was thinking about inbetween the support and not the actual suports themselves-

 

[moparpoor]

Don't feel bad I have a 72 charger I am building for butt turbo.com that is in far worse shape.The warpage you have is usually from years of being slammed or abused.It maybe some from blasting,but can be easily repaired by someone with experience i'm sure.

 

[MIKESHOTRODSHOP]

my 2 cents

i have been medai blasting since it first came out and blasting for longer than that..

soda does not produce the heat.. sand/mill scale,and some plastic media does,

but being to close to ur panel u r working will do te same thing as to much heat from friction..

air pressure from the blast tip will create enough heat if held in one spot to long or to close, sounds funny but it will produce heat enough to warp a large panel,, it heats up and cools very rapidly shrinking the area u r working,

believe me i have made this very costly mistake twice, once with soda and once with very fine mill scale..

if the finish is even slightly ruff he blasted it with somehting other than soda

soda finish should be like plain bare metal with very very little roughness on the surface

u can may be fix it by the same technique the paintless dent guys use,,

less bondo and work

 

[RGAZ]

I had my 72 charger soda blasted. When we went to pick it up everything looked pretty good besides a few areas that looked like they had been warped on the hood. The guy said that it was because the skin wasnt attached to the frame of the hood by something he called "anti-flutter foam". Any ideas on if this could be true? Its only dimpled in between the supports of the hood from the top. Id post pictures but its hard to see. Ultimately my question is can this be fixed? and how.

Anti-flutter foam is the correct term for the flexible conection of the hood skin to the hood webbing. It is used in many places and is supposed to be flexible. Due to the age and underhood temps, almost all anti-flutter foam of the vintage cars we have is now a solid chunk and does not properly operate as anti-flutter. 3M makes a repalcement anti-flutter foam but I have not tried it. Do not use RTV or epoxy, it is not the same.

As for damage due to the process, I think if he really knew what he was doing he would limit the blasting in those areas or he would block up or clamp the webbing to prevent the dimpling effect and use a limited blast.

The solution, although painful, would be to bump out the dimples by either using dent removal tools or by removing the entire webbing and using a hammer and dolly. I have done the latter and it is extremely time consuming.

BTW - If someone has a cheaper or more direct source for real anti-flutter foam, I am all ears.

Randy

 

[Donny]

Wow, interesting. I've blasted a LOT of hoods, never warped one. Low pressure, soft media, lots of air. What's left of the underhood webbing foam stuff remains -- even when I'm done with it.

 

[RGAZ]

Wow, interesting. I've blasted a LOT of hoods, never warped one. Low pressure, soft media, lots of air. What's left of the underhood webbing foam stuff remains -- even when I'm done with it.

But Donny, you are a pro and you have real work ethics. This is not always the case.

Yeah, I would not expect blasting would remove the anti-flutter foam after its hardened. That stuff is tough to get off.

Randy

 

[WileE]

No, no, no... do not get a tube of body caulk. Caulk is for seam sealing. The foam is used between panels & braces, such as the hood & outer door panels. Go to your local bodyshop, tell him what you need, he'll get it from his supplier.

 

[Donny]

Or, if you're really ambitious, separate the hood from the webbing, but, be careful, both parts alone are flimsy!

 

[moparpoor]

Actually 3m and sem have what you are looking for.They both come in a two part tube wich requires a special gun,same gun for both.The gun or applicator is about 25.00 and a tube of the foam is around 30.00 and is more than you need.The key to doing this job correctly is preperation,i can not stress this enough.It is a messy job if not careful and you can wreck a part easily as well.The biggest mistake guys make,they flip the hood upside down and apply the foam.This foam holds any shape or impression from a stand or work area you may have the hood on.Think it out well before attempting,save yourself the grief.

 

[RGAZ]

Or, if you're really ambitious, separate the hood from the webbing, but, be careful, both parts alone are flimsy!

I am all over that. I agree, not for the weak at heart.

Check it out...

 

[moparpoor]

Ya really,I thought the 72 was bad holy ****.These issues I fixed seem feeble compared to what evers left of what ever that might have been:violent1: