Premature cam failer,what oil are you using?

[74sundance]

I thought I would start a new post RE: Premature cam failer because far to many people are unaware of the problems that will occure from using the wrong oil.

I've posted a brief break down but also added a few links for the people that want to know more.

Due to the EPA's mandate for zinc removal from most motor oils, proper flat tappet camshaft break-in procedure is more critical than ever before. This is true for both hydraulic and mechanical flat tappet Camshafts. As a point of interest, the most critical time in the life of a flat tappet camshaft is the first 20 minutes of “break-in” during which the bottoms of the tappets “mate-in” with the cam lobes.
There are some oils with additive packages that are better for camshaft “break-in”. These include, but are not limited to: (Brad Penn or Joe Gibbs racing) or a “race only” petroleum- based oil and include Crane Cams
Part # 99003-1 Super Lube” additive.

.........."Do not use API rated “SL” or “SM” oil"............

CAUTION: We do not recommend the use of synthetic oils for “break-in”. Prior to installing the camshaft and lifters, it is recommended that the crankcase be drained and filled with new, clean oil, as listed above. The oil
filter should also be changed at this time.

You can also use: Mobil 1 15W-50 (1,200 ppm), Mobil 1 0W-40 (1,000 ppm) and Mobil 1 High Mileage 5W-30, 10W-30 and 10W-40 (900 ppm).

Stay away from: API SM/ISLAC GF-4 oils They are for for better fuel economy and for the protection of catalytic systems with lower phosphorous (800 ppm).They are not good for our cars!!!!!!

CPGNation info:
http://www.powerperformancenews.com/forum/new-tech-bulletin-flat-tappet-camshaft-10.html

Cranecams:
http://cranecams.com/pdf/548e.pdf

Mobil 1 info :
http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Car_Care/AskMobil/Camshaft_Breakin.aspx

Shell Rotella "T" info:
http://www.fordmuscle.com/blog/use-the-right-oil-with-your-flat-tappet-cams/11295

 

[moparstuart]

I only use valvoline 20/50 racing fomula , it still has a high level of zinc in it also .
you must get the racing forula .

 

[74sundance]

I only use valvoline 20/50 racing fomula , it still has a high level of zinc in it also .
you must get the racing forula .

As posted for another member........
Well I use Rotella "T" and Valvoline has the same 1200 ppm ZDDP content but the street/race oil VR1 would be better because it's street legal plus it comes in 10w-30 and 20w50....... If you run the Rotella-T oil it still has the proper ZDDP (Zinc DialkylDithiophosphates" additive levels and it's cheeper.

 

[moparstuart]

i ran the rotella acouple of time after breakin on the birdible motor and just didnt like the oil pressure fluxuation I was getting , so i went back to 20 / 50 racing .

 

[thebankerstoy]

On an engine equipped with a hydraulic (flat tappet) camshaft, not only should you use a motor oil, or oil additive with the correct level of zinc (ZDDP) during the "break-in" period, but you should use it for the ENTIRE life of that engine.

If you run ANY motor oil with an API rating of "SM" without a good high quality ZDDP additive , you WILL experience a camshaft and or lifter failure! I don't care if the engine is brand new, or has lots of miles on it. When the Government mandated that the oil companies remove ALL of the zinc from their motor oils that were designed for use in passenger cars and light duty trucks (non diesel models) for health reasons back in the early 2000's, they came out with the "SM" rated motor oils and that forced the U.S. Auto Manufactures to change their camshaft designs. Most of them went to a "roller" style cam which does not require zinc to survive.

Personally, in both of my muscle cars that run hydraulic cams, I use the Chevron Delo 400 Heavy Duty motor oil with an API rating of CJ-4 (rated for diesel use which also requires zinc) and an SAE rating of 15W-40, along with a 12 ounce bottle of the Comp Cams "Engine Break-in Oil Additive", part #159, at EVERY oil change and I've had zero problems.

Just my .02 though.

Richard

 

[74sundance]

On an engine equipped with a hydraulic (flat tappet) camshaft, not only should you use a motor oil, or oil additive with the correct level of zinc (ZDDP) during the "break-in" period, but you should use it for the ENTIRE life of that engine.

If you run ANY motor oil with an API rating of "SM" without a good high quality ZDDP additive , you WILL experience a camshaft and or lifter failure! I don't care if the engine is brand new, or has lots of miles on it. When the Government mandated that the oil companies remove ALL of the zinc from their motor oils that were designed for use in passenger cars and light duty trucks (non diesel models) for health reasons back in the early 2000's, they came out with the "SM" rated motor oils and that forced the U.S. Auto Manufactures to change their camshaft designs. Most of them went to a "roller" style cam which does not require zinc to survive.

Personally, in both of my muscle cars that run hydraulic cams, I use the Chevron Delo 400 Heavy Duty motor oil with an API rating of CJ-4 (rated for diesel use which also requires zinc) and an SAE rating of 15W-40, along with a 12 ounce bottle of the Comp Cams "Engine Break-in Oil Additive", part #159, at EVERY oil change and I've had zero problems.

Just my .02 though.

Richard

Thank's for that Just to add to that a little.....

Camshaft Nitriding
Nitriding is recognized by metallurgists worldwide as one of the most effective ways to increase the case hardness and lobe surface lubricity of flat tappet cams, all in an effort to enhance both break-in and long-term durability. Pro Plasma™ Nitriding is a patented process that uses pulsed nitrogen plasma to infuse nitrogen ions into the part – strengthening and fortifying the steel on a molecular level, through a depth of approximately .010 of an inch deep. Once again, COMP Cams® has proven their technological leadership by becoming the first aftermarket valve train company to own and operate a Pro Plasma™ Nitriding service in-house

 

[scotts74birds]

RUMOR has it.....that a number of lifters had been sourced to China in the last few years by reputable companies. They had problems, lets say. The manufacture of these lifters has been moved back to the U.S. The info is out there, but nobody is really wanting to say much about it right now.

 

[69 Runner]

Amsoil "Premium Protection" 20/50. Has Zinc of 1200+ppm. I run their filter too, which I think is guaranteed for 25,000 miles

 

[74sundance]

RUMOR has it.....that a number of lifters had been sourced to China in the last few years by reputable companies. They had problems, lets say. The manufacture of these lifters has been moved back to the U.S. The info is out there, but nobody is really wanting to say much about it right now.

True, but that doesn't explain the sudden loss of cams in older motors.

 

[moparsteve636]

Use a product called ZDDplus!To get more info,log onto www.kirbanperformance.com They can fix you upwith literature of the product.Also why not to use Diesel or racing oils.I am a distributer for them but they can take care of you too.

 

[generaljmwlee]

If I use one of the oils with 1200+ppm do I still need a additive in the oil for break-in ?
and what I am hearing is the oils that have the higher zinc are the oils for diesel motors,would that be a good choice to run in my new motor? do they sell the zddp additive at napa or advanced auto? I have too much money that I dont really have in to this motor to wipe it out buy some bad oils. sorry if I sound like and Idiot just being careful because the wallets thin with out a job

 

[69 Runner]

Nope. Just buy the oil already high in ZINC. It will cost less in the long run than a standard oil change with a $10 bottle of ZDDP additive.