Prep before sending to painter

[citadel]

guys,

we are prepping a car to send to the painter. we have pulled the interior and will be pulling the dash.
what other items do you recommend we remove before sending the car to the painter?

The shop is pulling the engine.

 

[Propwash]

Door handles, mirror(s), locks, antenna, grill, bumpers, trim, wind/weather seals, trunk seal, marker reflector housings and reflectors, tail light bezels, sill plates, wind lace, Front/rear windshield (just to see what they're hiding-both areas love to rot) Thought yours was a vert, so rear wouldn't apply.

 

[Dako]

I read your post, but you must know it is almost impossible to get a quality paint job in the engine bay without removing the motor and trans...and to each his own, but black engine bays just do not belong in Mopars. A shiny, color matched bay is what makes it a Mopar, and not an 'every other car'! :headbang:

Glass and trim are the next biggies. I know they are a pain, but it's what distinguishes a good job from an outstanding job. When going for a complete paint, a good shop will remove/ install front and rear glass trim as a courtesy. The shop I used even removed/ installed the front and rear glass for me. Good luck with your project!

 

[citadel]

sorry... I meant I am not pulling the engine but the shop is.

 

[citadel]

Do you normally remove the side windows and regulator arms? How about the convertible top and frame?
Should I remove the trim or leave it for the shop to remove?
Any ideas on how the trim is removed?

 

[Dako]

Do you normally remove the side windows and regulator arms? How about the convertible top and frame?
Should I remove the trim or leave it for the shop to remove?
Any ideas on how the trim is removed?

Depends on the finished product level you are trying to achieve. a '20 footer' will be fine without removing most of this stuff. A '10 footer' or less and details get noticed.

Removal of windows, end seals, door latches, weatherstripping, etc. allows you to get in those areas and clean out 40+ years of dirt and grime while ensuring there will be no missed maskings...no dirt at edges...and full even coverage of paint on all surfaces. Nothing is more obvious than a $thousands dollar$ paint job on an otherwised untouched car when you are standing 10 feet away. Removing mechanisms also gives you a chance to clean and properly lube them so i't's not a workout 'rolling holes' and closing doors.

There is work and cost in replacing stuff like worn or torn 'cat wiskers' (fuzzy stuff the windows roll up through), door seals, stinky carpet, and the likes...but those are the details that separate a car that looks restored from an old car that appears to just have a new coat of paint applied. How may of us replaced seat belt webbing due to fading...let alone it's ability to keep someone in the car after years of exposure? I did because I want mine to look like it did on the dealer's lot back in `66. Who replace their headliner even though the original was in tact? I did, because I knew mice and farm dirt had made its way up behind it. No matter how clean the rest of the car was, there would always be that old smell lingering.

The 'long-of-the-short-of-it' is there is no wrong answer. As has been stated on here many times, "It's your car. Go to the level you are comfortable with and/ or can afford." Now is the time local car shows start up. Attend a few, making note of the detail work and make your decision how far to go from there. Good luck and hopefully you'll be posting pictures of your ride as you progress. We all like car **** regardless of its condition.:tongue5:

 

[Dako]

60's cars used metal or plastic 'pop-on' type trim clips. All go through the body and are accessible from the trunk, inside the fenders (front) or by interior panels (doors). My `66 actually had both. If you are concerned about damaging trim, have the body shop do it. same with drip rails. If you haven't already done so, I would highly recommend purchasing one of the reproduced shop manuals. It is money well spent.

 

[YY1]

It's even tough to get paint between the steering box and the inner fender on the driver's side. I took mine out (or more correctly, painted while I was rebuilding the front end, so the box was easyer to remove).