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Price Check: 1969 Charger R/T

What's worse for the hobby is being an *** hole and jacking the price way up to rip off foolish buyers
I agree that what you wrote here is bad as well. The free market often sends a message to the clueless assclowns with stupid asking prices.
When I encounter people like that, my response depends entirely on my mood at the time. Sometimes I confront the person with the fact that they are waaaaaay over market value. Sometimes I just walk away.
This could be an issue much like the "Chicken and the egg".
Which came first? People with huge dollar signs in their eyes asking far too much OR buyers that dig, grind and complain until the seller drops the price?
 
Actually, if we want to place 'blame' on the condition of the car hobby market prices, I think it all starts with the over sensationalized car auctions. This is where people get the idea that just about any Charger, and particularly Challenger is worth at least 40 grand regardless of condition. I go to Barrett Jackson every year, and listen to the guys talking on their cell phones that "they only have 600 grand to spend this year, so they hope to buy three cars".

I think everyone here has missed my original point; I stick to budgets.Every dollar I have has a name on it, and it is what it is and not a penny more. Maybe for this reason getting back into the MOPAR hobby is just not for me.

In 2003 I was laid off from 11 years at my company. I sold all of my employee stock, paid off my mortgage, and placed what was left in an on line savings account for a B Body someday. I had sold my last B Body in 1997 due to a relocation, and thought I'd find another one in the future.

Today I have the capability to return to the hobby. I have ample garage space, and I am looking to retire in the next 5 years and wrench away on a B Body while I still have the capability and health.

I've learned from you good people quite a bit in the last few weeks and am grateful for the education. I'll keep looking for a car, and hope you guys keep giving the advice!
 
Didn't somebody start a thread not to long ago about how we needed to raise our prices on our cars to increase the value. Or something to that effect. There's just no pleasing people.
Billccm- keep searching, I believe there are quite a few here pulling for you.
 
Bill, best of luck finding what you are after. It is out there. You just have to sift through the chaff. No way I could afford a finished or even a partially finished one. So I bought a basket case with rot to work on. I am doing it as a driver and will upgrade parts as I go.
 
That car is pretty gross looking and I'm surprised that bidding gets that high.

He has terrible pictures, none underneath and the trunk shot is washed out black except for the close up of the good section lol. No shots of any potential problem areas and pics are shot so far back that any detail is missing. Those wheels are horrible and I can't say I care about the exterior color in the interior.
 
I too dislike the wheels and the sublime interior on the metal trim and steering column. I do like the disc brakes on all four wheels. I have asked numerous times for underbody pictures, and if the 'all new suspension' means a hotchkis suspension, but the only reply I have so far is the reserve is 23,000.

This is a good datapoint for my search.
 
Just thought I’d add some updates to those that might be interested. I’ll spare you many details, but I have walked away from two 22K B bodys recently. One was a very overpriced near project status car, the other one had severe rust issues and previous bodywork that was very substandard.
The Super Bee in Lake Havasu is still on my list, but the more details I get the more I realize it probably is not worth the 29K (firm) asking price. It seems this car is not ‘very original’ as the paint, interior, etc have been changed, and there is sheetmetal work in it’s history. Probably a great car at 24, but not so great at 29.
The yellow Wyoming car is still the best I have found for the money, and I am still in dialog with the seller. The title loan issue, and transportation to Tucson are still the show stoppers.
Reducing the search effort to just Arizona for now as travel is difficult with my current workload.
Please keep all of the opinions, comments, and advice coming! Take care, Bill
 
I feel your pain...and see your nervous excitement/rush to get something. When I sold my Cuda I was in a rush to find something...I picked up a 69 Roadrunner 383 4spd, all #matching from the carb to the rear, and lucked out with tons of documentation (window sticker, dealer sales order, recpts for resto, pics of resto, fender tag, bank payoff in 1971),and paper trail to 1st owner who had it for 37 years...never in an accident, never hacked up or raced, bench seat 4spd, pretty unique color B7 Blue. but before you know it...you're into it for another $5,000 just doing "things"...I will tell you stay away from dealers if you can...part of that $5000 was $2000 in sales tax because its true sales price was written on title. I am happy with the car and it is a great driver quality. Firewall, inner fenders, and trunk are still original paint. All i added was hood stripes (vinyl wrap) black steel wheels, and flowmaster 2.5 exhaust and H pipe with correct tips.


Be leary of Canada too...my friend recently purchased a 68 Hemi Dart Clone and it took over 2 months to get his car shipped.
 
Thanks! One advantage of a dealer is they do try to protect their reputation and the descriptions I have found, so far, to be extremely accurate. I am aware of the sales tax issue you have pointed out.

I've also heard the stories on Canada cars and you are correct that this could be a long nightmare.

I am not discouraged, and learning more and more everyday about people and how they sell cars. I've walked away from three 'absolutely perfect' described cars that had poor paint, collision damaged that was not even repaired, nor disclosed, or 'all original' cars only to find that the paint color was changed, the engine was not original, and the interior was out of a different model car, yet it was 'all original'?

The 16 to 22K range is a difficult place to play. Many 22K cars out there that are really worth 16K, and most of the 16K cars are projects, or just a step above.

The car I looked at in Wyoming is still the best 16K car I have found. It has a lot wrong with it, but it also has a lot right with it. Again, the seller is playing games in that he has an outrageous title loan on the car, and being in remote Wyoming makes it impossible to have it shipped to Tucson.

My plan is to monitor eBay, Craiglist, etc and maybe save some money to increase my budget to high 20s. I think cars in the 29K range might actually be the most 'honest', and in the long run the best value.
 
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I've come to the same conclusions as you. It will be very interesting to see as the weather gets colder to see what comes onto the market. Happy Hunting!

Thanks! One advantage of a dealer is they do try to protect their reputation and the descriptions I have found, so far, to be extremely accurate. I am aware of the sales tax issue you have pointed out.

I've also heard the stories on Canada cars and you are correct that this could be a long nightmare.

I am not discouraged, and learning more and more everyday about people and how they sell cars. I've walked away from three 'absolutely perfect' described cars that had poor paint, collision damaged that was not even repaired, nor disclosed, or 'all original' cars only to find that the paint color was changed, the engine was not original, and the interior was out of a different model car, yet it was 'all original'?

The 16 to 22K range is a difficult place to play. Many 22K cars out there that are really worth 16K, and most of the 16K cars are projects, or just a step above.

The car I looked at in Wyoming is stil the best 16K car I have found. It has alot wrong with it, but it also has a lot right with it. Again, the seller is playing games in that he has an outrageous title loan on the car, and being in remote Wyoming makes it impossible to have it shipped to Tucson.

My plan is to monitor eBay, Craiglist, etc and maybe save some money to increase my budget to high 20s. I think cars in the 29K range might actually be the most 'honest', and in the long run the best value.
 
I have found in my search that 29k cars are older resto that will need attention within a few short years or are incorrect. That being said, certain cars are hot in trends, while others are losing some ground...Example, 70-71 challengers are 35 and above...70 cuda's are closer to 40, 72-74 cuda's are in low-mid 30's, while 72-74 challengers aren't as popular, 69 RR 383 cars or transplanted 440s are all over the map (27-40)...Chargers are high 30-45. Also depends on what you're after...if it's a charger, than wait a few more years and save $$$...to restore a car, unless it's a hemi car or some other super valuable car, you are not gonna get your money back out, and possibly run the risk of it landing in body shop jail.
if you're looking for a cool cruise night car that you don't have to touch...my advice is this, it's my opinion...
A #1 A-Body (duster, demon, dart 340 4spd is equivelant to a #2 B-Body (coronet/superbee, roadrunner)...so maybe get that and ride the wave for a few years...enjoy driving and when the market corrects...trade up for a charger and add some $$
Thanks! One advantage of a dealer is they do try to protect their reputation and the descriptions I have found, so far, to be extremely accurate. I am aware of the sales tax issue you have pointed out.

I've also heard the stories on Canada cars and you are correct that this could be a long nightmare.

I am not discouraged, and learning more and more everyday about people and how they sell cars. I've walked away from three 'absolutely perfect' described cars that had poor paint, collision damaged that was not even repaired, nor disclosed, or 'all original' cars only to find that the paint color was changed, the engine was not original, and the interior was out of a different model car, yet it was 'all original'?

The 16 to 22K range is a difficult place to play. Many 22K cars out there that are really worth 16K, and most of the 16K cars are projects, or just a step above.

The car I looked at in Wyoming is stil the best 16K car I have found. It has alot wrong with it, but it also has a lot right with it. Again, the seller is playing games in that he has an outrageous title loan on the car, and being in remote Wyoming makes it impossible to have it shipped to Tucson.

My plan is to monitor eBay, Craiglist, etc and maybe save some money to increase my budget to high 20s. I think cars in the 29K range might actually be the most 'honest', and in the long run the best value.
 
Be careful & avoid these guys: American Classic Muscle Car, which from what I understand from old threads on many forums is the old HLPAG, but under a new name. Also I was told to avoid Classic Car Guy as he is a re-seller and American Classic Muscle Car also sells thru him.
 
I feel your pain...and see your nervous excitement/rush to get something. When I sold my Cuda I was in a rush to find something...I picked up a 69 Roadrunner 383 4spd, all #matching from the carb to the rear, and lucked out with tons of documentation (window sticker, dealer sales order, recpts for resto, pics of resto, fender tag, bank payoff in 1971),and paper trail to 1st owner who had it for 37 years...never in an accident, never hacked up or raced, bench seat 4spd, pretty unique color B7 Blue. but before you know it...you're into it for another $5,000 just doing "things"...I will tell you stay away from dealers if you can...part of that $5000 was $2000 in sales tax because its true sales price was written on title. I am happy with the car and it is a great driver quality. Firewall, inner fenders, and trunk are still original paint. All i added was hood stripes (vinyl wrap) black steel wheels, and flowmaster 2.5 exhaust and H pipe with correct tips.


Be leary of Canada too...my friend recently purchased a 68 Hemi Dart Clone and it took over 2 months to get his car shipped.



I purchased this Road Runner last December. Like yours, it's got tons of paperwork & history all the way back to the original owner. This car has less than 60K miles and never any rot. Matching numbers 383, 4 speed, bench seat. Tinted windows & factory 3:91 gears (which as I have come to find out is very rare). The paint and body work on this car are fantastic and it runs great, but even still, I put in about $1,500.00 into it after I bought it. Purchase price was $37,500.00 & $1,200.00 shipping to get it home. Some may think it's a little on the high side, but I know that I could not restore a car to this quality for less. As the old saying goes, you do get what you pay for.
14352329_10210695213234417_280752049129152216_o.jpg
14305196_10210695214034437_2371302960821207501_o.jpg
 
I purchased this Road Runner last December. Like yours, it's got tons of paperwork & history all the way back to the original owner. This car has less than 60K miles and never any rot. Matching numbers 383, 4 speed, bench seat. Tinted windows & factory 3:91 gears (which as I have come to find out is very rare). The paint and body work on this car are fantastic and it runs great, but even still, I put in about $1,500.00 into it after I bought it. Purchase price was $37,500.00 & $1,200.00 shipping to get it home. Some may think it's a little on the high side, but I know that I could not restore a car to this quality for less. As the old saying goes, you do get what you pay for. View attachment 363046 View attachment 363047
man i love that car!!!
 
Calling about that charger today! Thanks!
 
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