Pros and Cons of Two Approaches

[EngineerDoug]

I hear you on the base/clear issue. I found at least one extended thread in the forum about the debate between the base/clear system versus single stage. Like many other key issues, there are arguments in favor of both approaches. I am not looking for super high gloss or a showcar outcome, even though clearly I do want a durable and great-looking paint job. I do appreciate the fewer steps of the single-stage system, as I will be painting the car at home and am sensitive to the fact that my neighbors will probably smell each and every spray session of the process.

BTW I did paint my first car some 25 years ago in base/clear and it turned out pretty well. Here is my old '68, long since gone:

 

[wantahemi]

Take a look at my 1969 Roadrunner Post Coupe Roadrunner

The pics are chronological and it was what worked best for me. If it comes off, it was prepped, painted and polished off the car. The fenders were sprayed on the engine compartment side and bumper side. The bolted in place and were taped / masked off and then painted after final alignment was complete. So basically, the trunk interior was done than masked off. The engine bay interior and exterior. Doors, trunk and hood done off car. Insides first, the flipped and exterior. Car was then jammed out, cowl, and then fenders bolted on and sprayed.

Door and fender alignment checked ALOT before mounting. It's all good fun and that 68 Blue Car looked great. We used base clear and just wet sand it pretty.

Good Luck!

 

[Wagonboy]

Hi guys,

Got a question about two different approaches to painting my '68 Coronet. The car is entirely apart, and undergoing major rust repair at this point. I've been thinking about how I will paint the car, and it occurs to me there are two ways to do it:

1) Paint the door jambs, trunk, hood underside, etc ("hidden" areas) first. Then hang the doors, fenders, etc. Do all the body work and priming. Then paint the entire car exterior. This approach allows you to hang and align all panels with less fear of marking the new (exterior) paint. It also means you do all your bodywork at one time. And less chance of color mismatch between panels.

2) Do the bodywork and paint on the doors, trunklid, hood, fenders, and shell separately and then re-assemble. This approach may give you better coverage of hard-to reach areas, and makes for shorter, more manageable spray sessions. For an amateur, it seems to be less pucker factor when you know all you have to do is paint the hood that day, rather than the entire car.

I have painted cars before, but am not a pro. The paint will be a solid color (Sublime green). I can see advantages and disadvantages to both approaches, but I'd really appreciate some opinions.

Thanks!

It boils down to how **** a person is.. the nicest way is to set all your gaps before the weatherstrip is removed. Do the bodywork on the decklid,doors,hood,fenders, etc. "Index" these panels( if you don't mind drilling a couple of tiny holes). Do all of your bodywork, prime , block- reprime & guide coat with the car together, take off all panels. Prep all the jambs, including removal of weatherstrip. No need to primer the jambs. Do a final block on outside of panels , fine tune. When you set up the panels you removed for final paint, build something that will hold them & give you access to all areas. Prep the Body in the same way. When spraying the parts, use a wet on wet sealer (epoxy or 2k urethane) this will save prep time on jambs as you did not have to sand a conventional primer.