PST rear sway bar problem

Performance Suspension Technology

  1. Doug Larsson

    Doug Larsson Well-Known Member

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    I talked to Dan st PST this morning he told me that drawings completely wrong that the midsection needs to be up on top not on the bottom that's why it's not fitting correctly which I was going to try but I want to talk to them first. Im glad we have it sorted out
     
  2. odcics2

    odcics2 Well-Known Member

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    How many pounds per inch roll resistance is the rear bar??
     
  3. Doug Larsson

    Doug Larsson Well-Known Member

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    I don't know it's a 1 " bar ask PST .
     
  4. Doug Larsson

    Doug Larsson Well-Known Member

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    The only issue was they sent me the wrong instructions and drawing.
     
  5. Doug Larsson

    Doug Larsson Well-Known Member

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    Well I made some headway on it today I had to wrap it up so I wouldn't scratch it all up while feeding it thru my exhaust pipes thanks to Dan this morning for the info glad it's working out.

    20190619_214557.jpg
     
  6. Sixpactogo

    Sixpactogo Well-Known Member

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    Good news. Glad it worked out for you.
     
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    • odcics2

      odcics2 Well-Known Member

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      Ok, so is the front bar original? If so, what's the rate??

      I'd assume you'd like to know which end of you car will hit the guard rail first when you loose traction!!
      :lol:
       
    • bm02tj

      bm02tj Well-Known Member

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      I hope he ordered a bigger one for the front or he will not be happy
       
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      • chtampa

        chtampa FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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        Love mine, looks just like the impossible to find factory one.
         
      • Sixpactogo

        Sixpactogo Well-Known Member

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        First I've heard of a sway bar making the decision of which end gets out of control first. Sway bars do just what their title says. They are anti sway not anti skid. If you're gonna hit the guard rail you are not going to get much help from a front or rear sway bar. What are you talking about when you ask about the rate?
         
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        • odcics2

          odcics2 Well-Known Member

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          Read this first:
          http://www.addco.net/aftermarket/tech/how-swaybars-work/
           
        • Doug Larsson

          Doug Larsson Well-Known Member

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          IMG_1746.JPG
           
        • Doug Larsson

          Doug Larsson Well-Known Member

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          IMG_1746.JPG
           
        • Doug Larsson

          Doug Larsson Well-Known Member

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        • Sixpactogo

          Sixpactogo Well-Known Member

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        • Doug Larsson

          Doug Larsson Well-Known Member

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          Why don't you just enlighten us with your knowledge instead of sending links . It makes no sense to come on a page and promote another company .
           
        • odcics2

          odcics2 Well-Known Member

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          I ran an ADDCO front bar rated at 260 pounds per inch roll resistance.
          The rear bar was rated at 220 pounds per inch roll resistance.
          The rear used links that allowed me to tune it by changing the durometer of the bushings.
          I had moved the Grp. 27 battery to the trunk, deleted the extra black rubber bumpers on the car, deleted the a/c system, had an aluminum intake and Hooker headers. That removed a lot of extra weight.
          I used ET wheels, 8.5 wide all around. Fat Goodyear Rally GT tires.

          The "ratio" of front to rear roll resistance determines the over, or understeer you will get with your particular car. I had mine tuned to a very slight oversteer.
          "Fast loose", as it is called.

          I'll try to find a photo or two. I had a front spoiler that cut the lift in 1/2.
          In 1983, at the first Chrysler Car Club Convention, I drove it on the Chelsea high bank at 120. Stable as a rock!
           
        • odcics2

          odcics2 Well-Known Member

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          Here's a pic I found of the rear bar I ran.
          The 'hump' part was over the driveshaft/diff.
          You can see the 2 links provided. The grommets can be swapped to fine tune the bar. That helps tune it depending on engine size (weight up front)
          A 318 would have different set up than a 440 car, for example.

          About a year after I added the bars, I broke a rear strap due to aggressive driving.
          I ended up making better links with 1/2 threaded rod and the upgraded the bars that attached to the U bolt. I used some thick rear shackle stock.

          I was going to get rid of all the rubber between the front K member and rails, along with the iso-clamps on the rear springs. Never got to it... =(
          That would have made another big difference in handling, but at the expense of driving comfort. Everything is a tradeoff.
          aco-236_w.jpg
           
          Last edited: Jun 21, 2019
        • Doug Larsson

          Doug Larsson Well-Known Member

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          Well I ran into another issue the spacers are too long my suspension isn't even working correctly. Before rear sway bar my rear end was sitting at 1 3/4 from top of tire to center of fender well now its ast 4 1/2 . Time to shorten the spacers I had to buy shorter bolts also looks like I'll be buying even shorter bolts again . I had to do the same thing with the front.

          20190621_192049.jpg 20190621_192314.jpg 20190621_194423.jpg
           
        • odcics2

          odcics2 Well-Known Member

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          Read it all. Sweet!!!

          I learned that the car has to be supported under the axle when adding a rear bar.
          Either use jack stands or a drive on hoist. You want the leafs flat.
          My boss at the Sears I worked at in the 70s let me put my bar in in the garage, during my break.
           
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