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Pushbutton trans leakage

Ron H

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I had to adjust the pushbuttons on the 727 on my '63 Fury and noted a little leakage around the area so pulled out the adjuster to find a flattened and threaded O ring. I thought I had just the right size O ring to replace it. I did the adjustment getting the buttons to work fine. Now I have a major leak! Does anyone know if the adjuster requires a special O ring or if there could be another issue causing massive leaking?
Thanks for any advice.
 
Does the trans fluid level go up on the dipstick as the car sits a few days...or does it leak right away?
Mine leaks where the shift cable goes in the trans after the car sits for a few days. Level keeps going up on the dipstick. Somehow the converter must be leaking back into the pan on mine. Good luck on solving the issue.
 
it leaks fast at the adjuster bore like a faucet that's not closed all the way. The only seal this are has is the O-ring. I knew sizing would be critical thinking I did my homework on this. Considering the condition of the old ring surprised it hadn't leaked more than it did. Getting the wheel flush on the trans body is a critical thing as well and watched for this; but having a third hand for this would be nice; my assistant was busy keeping pressure on the R button while this adjustment has to be made..
 
I'm wondering if your replacement o-ring is too small. I can get you measurements if you need them.
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I insert the park cable into rubber fuel line with silicone where it goes into the trans.DVW told me he uses shrink tube.

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Had micro'd the groove width and depth and ring I installed seemed just right with slight protrusion of OD giving a nice smooth drag in bore. Also figured the ring would expand from tranny oil and heat. If you have sizing pls let me know and will compare. Thanks
 
Determine if it's leaking from behind the adjustment wheel or around the cable housing.

Screenshot_2016-07-31-12-20-09.jpg
 
Thanks! I notice it coming from the bore behind the adjuster wheel. To my knowledge the o ring is the only seal point unless there is another further inside? I had rebuilt the valve body (shift kit) 5 or so years ago and have no memory of the interior around the shifter (as to any interior sealing) so thinking I should drop the pan to see what's what. As it is though, the leak must be the result of my replacing the ring unless a very remote odd coincidence. Thanks again as I'll check the spec's you gave me.
 
O-ring spec's almost to what you provided 3/4"x 1/2" x .100. only difference is the OD is .750 (as you say .700) reckoning this is a standard size ring. I suppose I could go to supply store to see if they have any that are .700...
 
Some years back I had epoxied the cable sheathing as it was split and leaking. I thought from jiggling the cable around to reset the buttons I could have broken that seal; but that still looks dry. I've heard of using shrink tubing and that was going to be my next step if the epoxy trick failed. Anyway, somehow it's real evident the o ring isn't sealed and not too keen on pulling it back out to put in another o ring if I'm only going to get the same friggin result...frustrating. If there's by chance another seal inside the bore lemme know.
 
Just the O-ring Ron. The o-ring you used, being larger, might have rolled up on itself and maybe even cut or damaged it. Try looking through NAPA's box of assorted o-rings.

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Treat it like the trans dipstick. How did hemi-itis say to do it? Drain fluid,bead of silicone below o-ring,assemble and let dry overnight. Refill and check for leaks. Thats what I remember. Sounds good to me!
 
A bead around the O ring itself?
 
Just in front of the ring so the silicone is spread back over the ring upon installation.
 
I always pack my O rings with Vaseline .
It takes up any looseness and creates a type of hydraulic lock between the ring & casing
 
Thanks much; I appreciate all of you taking time your to share your tips on this! I plan to pull the adjuster out to see what the "new" ring I put in looks like and go from there. Sort of touchy as I had to helicore the hold down bolt some years back and I doubt there is "2nd" go-arounds on this.
 
Sure the heli-coil isnt leaking? Properly done heli-coil is better than the threaded aluminum.
 
I see the oil stream coming out above at the adjuster wheel and threaded shaft.
 
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