Putting a 400 an 727 transmission

[Hossbee]

I have a question for the experts. Was wondering if it would be best to drop 400 and 727 into car at same time. Or would it be best to put transmission in first then stab with motor? Any help would be greatly appreciated. This is my first post. The car is a 1969 dodge coronet (SuperBee clone).

 

[Cranky]

If I can, I stick them in as a unit....

 

[Hossbee]

Thanks Cranky, just wanted to know to save time an hassle.

 

[portsider44]

I prefer to put in as on unit, just need to raise the front end of the car allow more room for the transmission to go in downward angle.

 

[YY1]

If you already have the radiator out, it might be worth a few more bolts to take out the upper core support/latch bracing. Sometimes those extra few inches make all the difference in the world.

 

[Cranky]

Before I got a load leveler, I'd pick the engine/trans up at a pretty good steep angle and let the tail shaft land on an old creeper about where the mount is and once it was close to being in place, I'd grab a floor jack and raise the tail shaft on up. The creeper was sideways so it didn't extend past the tail shaft.

 

[racedodge]

here is some advice, i do this each time i install an engine/transmission at the same time.

lift up the rear of your car about 1-2'. This lowers the height you have to raise the engine, but mainly, it helps alleviate the extreme angle of installation.

 

[YY1]

Sorry. Just looked at mine and you can't take out that brace without tons of work. Don't know what I was thinking.

 

[Donny]

Next time I need to pull an engine, it's coming out the bottom, on the K member as a whole unit.

 

[CharlieB]

here's a bb going into a 69 SBee

 

[racedodge]

here's a bb going into a 69 SBee

above is a great example of what i am talking about. see the huge angle they need in order to fit the engine/trans in as one unit?

if you raise the rear of the vehicle you can lower that angle (or keep it) and not worry about thrashing your core support. if you have another person handy, you can have them underneath sliding the trans over the trans crossmember at the same time as installation.

 

[cj's mopar]

above is a great example of what i am talking about. see the huge angle they need in order to fit the engine/trans in as one unit?

if you raise the rear of the vehicle you can lower that angle (or keep it) and not worry about thrashing your core support. if you have another person handy, you can have them underneath sliding the trans over the trans crossmember at the same time as installation.

For me i would install the motor then install the trans from under the car i have allways done it this way so iam used to it but i have very nicely painted engine compartments so i do not want to risk a scratched up and gouged up fire wall.
the 727 is very easy to ballance on a home made 12" by 12" piece of plywood under the pan on the two ton floor jack with a 6" inch pad .

I always make studs for the trans to slide onto and align the bell . then remove them after the trans is bolted .

 

[Cranky]

I usually unwind the torsion bars to lower the front end when I pull and install engines. I have a stationary hoist in my shop so the car needs to be able to roll once the engine/trans is up. I've used engine cranes before and I find it's easier to mess up the car with one of those than it is to use my overhead setup. Over the years, I've been a shift worker and having help show up when I needed it was usually a hassle so I just learned how to be a one man band instead of waiting on others convenience and did what I needed to do when I needed to do it. I've worked by myself for so long now that it actually slows me down when there is people trying to help lol

 

[kdtjb]

Next time I need to pull an engine, it's coming out the bottom, on the K member as a whole unit.

The 1st time takes a little more planning, but thats the only way to go for me.

 

[YY1]

I WANT that building, and it's contents!!!

Iteresting jig for the hoist.