Rant: I hate chrysler

[1 Wild R/T]

Nope, SB and BB Chevy are two different everything.
My last Chevy was a '68 Chevelle SS 396, black on black 4 speed. Pretty car....
and got waxed pretty regular by a stock 383 Roaf Runner back in those days.

I learned.

What you needed to learn is there are different 396's some (L25) are best suited for the family truck but still installed in SS396 Chevelles.. This is the 325 HP engine & probably what you had...

Some run decent (L34) and might give a 383 Roadrunner a decent race.. This is the 350 HP engine..

And some (L78) are a completely different animal. Rectangle port heads, solid lifters, forged pistons, Holley 780 on a decent aluminum high rise intake... The 375 HP engine that earned the 396's reputation

 

[Michael_]

Just a few thoughts..

1) The reason your fan ate you radiator could be due to the mounts allowing the engine to move, it could be to far forward... That can fight you when you attempt to put the new mounts in....

2) Also did you either remove the fan or at least unbolt the shroud while doing the mounts?

The fan & clutch & shroud is removed.
The passenger side mount appears fine (which i already replaced).
The drivers side mount also looks fine without removing it, picture:

 

[Michael_]

My theory is that those engine mounts, picture of the passenger side one that i removed:

are cheap chinese ones and that the driver side one broke.

I hope that i get that drivers side one replaced and that this theory is true.

 

[440 PHIXX]

What you needed to learn is there are different 396's some (L25) are best suited for the family truck but still installed in SS396 Chevelles.. This is the 325 HP engine & probably what you had...

Some run decent (L34) and might give a 383 Roadrunner a decent race.. This is the 350 HP engine..

And some (L78) are a completely different animal. Rectangle port heads, solid lifters, forged pistons, Holley 780 on a decent aluminum high rise intake... The 375 HP engine that earned the 396's reputation

And if no paperwork... matching numbers is the only way to prove a factory install. I always wondered why matching numbers meant so much to Mopar guys, when the VIN clearly states what engine the car came with. GM didn’t do that until 1972. The first muscle car era was pretty much over by then.

 

[DeltaV]

The fan & clutch & shroud is removed.
The passenger side mount appears fine (which i already replaced).
The drivers side mount also looks fine without removing it, picture:

View attachment 1304258

Raise the hood and start the car. Apply the parking brake, put your foot on the brake pedal pressing down firmly, and place the transmission in drive. Give the car a little bit of throttle (with your other foot) and have someone watch the engine from the driver's side. The engine will lift up abruptly on the driver's side when you give it throttle if the driver's side mount is bad/broken. NOTE: The person observing the engine movement needs to be standing to one side of the car, not in front ...as a safety precaution.
_________________________________________
A long time ago (teenager) I broke an engine mount (driver's side). I replaced both engine mounts and the new driver's side mount broke after continuing to drive like a teenager. I found the transmission mount was bad and I replaced it and installed another new driver's side mount. Voila, no more broken mounts and that car was run hard for another seven years with ZERO issues.

 

[Michael_]

Raise the hood and start the car. Apply the parking brake, put your foot on the brake pedal pressing down firmly, and place the transmission in drive. Give the car a little bit of throttle (with your other foot) and have someone watch the engine from the driver's side. The engine will lift up abruptly on the driver's side when you give it throttle if the driver's side mount is bad/broken. NOTE: The person observing the engine movement needs to be standing to one side of the car, not in front ...as a safety precaution.
_________________________________________
A long time ago (teenager) I broke an engine mount (driver's side). I replaced both engine mounts and the new driver's side mount broke after continuing to drive like a teenager. I found the transmission mount was bad and I replaced it and installed another new driver's side mount. Voila, no more broken mounts and that car was run hard for another seven years with ZERO issues.

We already did that, you can watch the video here:

MixDrop - Watch Motor Mounts Check

mixdrop.co

Unfortunately this site seems to run some sketchy ads but it works for me.

As for the transmission mounts that is good to know.
I will look into that if i should succeed with the engine mount on the driver side.
Also if it should really not be broken i suspect the transmission mount to be fine aswell.

 

[440 PHIXX]

My theory is that those engine mounts, picture of the passenger side one that i removed:

View attachment 1304259

are cheap chinese ones and that the driver side one broke.

I hope that i get that drivers side one replaced and that this theory is true.

I can vouch for those Chinese mounts being crap. I replaced a 43 year old factory mount on a 145HP 273. The replacement only lasted about 6 months before it ripped out.

 

[DeltaV]

My theory is that those engine mounts, picture of the passenger side one that i removed:

View attachment 1304259

are cheap chinese ones and that the driver side one broke.

I hope that i get that drivers side one replaced and that this theory is true.

The rubber is vulcanized to the steel. It can take a compression load just fine. It can take a tension load too. What the vulcanized joint does not like is a shear load. A bad transmission mount will let the transmission move around and this will impart a shear load on the vulcanized joint. A tension load in combination with shear load is going to (eventually) break the driver's side engine mount.

Replace your transmission mount.

 

[Cheapsunglasses]

Well I clicked on this thread thinking it was another pride month deal with Chrysler , boy was I wrong. Very entertaining though

To the OP, we all get frustrated sometimes when working on these old cars, oh well. Get it back together, go for some burnouts, and spirited driving, and you’ll be reminded about your love for a big block mopar

 

[DeltaV]

We already did that, you can watch the video here:

http://[URL]https://mixdrop.co/f/en93r6vzi179do

[/URL]
Unfortunately this site seems to run some sketchy ads but it works for me.

As for the transmission mounts that is good to know.
I will look into that if i should succeed with the engine mount on the driver side.
Also if it should really not be broken i suspect the transmission mount to be fine aswell.

Thanks for posting it again, but it doesn't work for me.

 

[Ray70Chrg]

Michael, us hobbyists have all had many days like you did. The secret is very simple. Keep a refrigerator or ice chest in the garage. If you notice, most guys have a refrigerator because ice eventually melts in the ice chest. Right after you've shouted every bad cuss word you can link together 5x, have a beer and take a break. If your heart is still pounding in your chest after the beer, then have another beer and call it a day. You'll be surprised at how many things you'll come up with to tackle the job differently. Beer can work wonders sometimes.

 

[Michael_]

The rubber is vulcanized to the steel. It can take a compression load just fine. It can take a tension load too. What the vulcanized joint does not like is a shear load. A bad transmission mount will let the transmission move around and this will impart a shear load on the vulcanized joint. A tension load in combination with shear load is going to (eventually) break the driver's side engine mount.

Replace your transmission mount.

What i'm going to do is trying to replace the drivers side engine mount.
If i should succeed with that i will replace the transmission mount as well. I will at least try to do so.

 

[65Bel]

What you needed to learn is there are different 396's some (L25) are best suited for the family truck but still installed in SS396 Chevelles.. This is the 325 HP engine & probably what you had...

Some run decent (L34) and might give a 383 Roadrunner a decent race.. This is the 350 HP engine..

And some (L78) are a completely different animal. Rectangle port heads, solid lifters, forged pistons, Holley 780 on a decent aluminum high rise intake... The 375 HP engine that earned the 396's reputation

Don't forget the L72 option (425 HP 396) introduced in mid 1965 for the Corvette. 2,157 were produced.

 

[Nxcoupe]

And to be fair when it comes to gm.
Looking at corvette c3 engine bays makes mine look pretty good aswell.

Lol. Right, says the guy that's never worked on one.
Seriously, sell the mopar, remove your membership and go buy your dream chevy. Then work on it and enjoy removing the entire doghouse sheetmetal, lol. Who does that? Is it a Ford diesel?
Sounds like you really don't know what you are doing. Ive owned muscle cars since I was 17, started out with GM cars, then moved to Mopar and never looked back. Built so much better and easier to work on in my opinion. Changing plugs on a BB chevy is easier than a BB Mopar, but that's where it ends. I also own Mustangs. I've put headers on a 428CJ for a guy and another set on a 390, done cam swaps in car, etc.
Reading your post and your 'lack of room' mantra you keep repeating just shows your lack of mechanical knowledge and experience. Stop, please, just stop.

 

[Michael_]

moved to Mopar and never looked back. Built so much better and easier to work on in my opinion.

Changing plugs on a BB chevy is easier than a BB Mopar, but that's where it ends.

Just out of serious interest.
What is so much harder to do on the gm a bodys (chevelle or my 72 cutlass supreme) than on the b body mopars?

 

[Nxcoupe]

Just out of serious interest.
What is so much harder to do on the gm a bodys (chevelle or my 72 cutlass supreme) than on the b body mopars?

Buy one and see. Remove the passenger side lower control arm. See? You're showing your inexperience. You know a little, and you're extrapolating that into sweeping assumptions. Never works out well.
Like I said, sounds like you've made up your mind, sell the Mopar and buy your chebby.

 

[Project66]

Sounds to me like you should just pay someone else work on your car.

I worked on cars by necessity, back in the 80’s. Back then, I had a lot of help from people around me who knew how to work on cars. Now, I do most of my work on my own and I am constantly running into my own limitations in terms of knowledge, skill, and experience. If you don’t have the patience to sit down and problem-solve your way through your project, then maybe this is just not for you.

BTW - Back in the day, I was working on Chevys and they Really are no easier to work on.

 

[eldubb440]

BTW - Back in the day, I was working on Chevys and they Really are no easier to work on.

exactly.....it's all the same ****.......nuts, bolts........ and pretty much WWII technology

you need to have the patience to take stuff apart further than you thought you had to

 

[QOTHL]

Sorry to hear about your issues but your an idiot! Please find another group to join!

Thanks, I needed that!

 

[QOTHL]

Try a plug change on a 390 in a 68.... Plug changes on a 440 B body are actually pretty easy if you realize they should be done from underneath....

In a 2G Charger, I do the D side from the top and the P side underneath. I need to use sockets and open end wrenches depending on where the spark plug is. I'm not in a hurry when I do work on my car - being impatient doesn't help.