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Rear Cam Plug - early 413

Charlie Brown

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Doing a re-seal on my 1962 413. The rear cam plug is a disc style, measuring 2 - 9/64 inch / 2.14 diameter. I have a cup style plug, but it's to deep. Recess in the block is .3 inches. I've searched all over the web for the disc style, but to no avail. Can anyone direct me to a source for these early discs? I'd be open to using a cup style if I could find one that is .3 inch deep.
20260204_182706[1].jpg


20260204_182349[1].jpg
 
Try 440 source, they sell an early style disc plug kit, perhaps they have just cam plug they would sell.
 
Doing a re-seal on my 1962 413. The rear cam plug is a disc style, measuring 2 - 9/64 inch / 2.14 diameter. I have a cup style plug, but it's to deep. Recess in the block is .3 inches. I've searched all over the web for the disc style, but to no avail. Can anyone direct me to a source for these early discs? I'd be open to using a cup style if I could find one that is .3 inch deep.View attachment 1989384

View attachment 1989386
Mancini has them in their freeze plug kits. Contact them and see if they sell them separately. MRE - Brass Freeze Plugs

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If you will wait until tomorrow, I will look it up to give you either a shallow or flat cam plug PN# and/or size. My old catalog is at work. OE# is 1852177
 
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The older engines could have a different size and the pic above is for a small block. Only the small block uses the contoured cam plug. It has an OD of 1.893" and PN# EPC-203 or MPC-203 depending on manufacturer.
May be so but I looked up the big block parts.
1770257301198.png
 
Doing a re-seal on my 1962 413. The rear cam plug is a disc style, measuring 2 - 9/64 inch / 2.14 diameter. I have a cup style plug, but it's to deep. Recess in the block is .3 inches. I've searched all over the web for the disc style, but to no avail. Can anyone direct me to a source for these early discs? I'd be open to using a cup style if I could find one that is .3 inch deep.View attachment 1989384

View attachment 1989386

The camshaft rear bearing welch plug for the 1962 413, of the concave type, original Chrysler part number is 1852177.

The Pioneer part number for this type plug, made of steel, is EP-44, which is 2-1/8" in diameter.
The brass version is Pioneer EP-44-B.

The Dorman number for the steel concave plug is 550-030.

The Perfect Circle (Clevite, Mahle) number for the steel concave plug is 219-1044.

The Pik-a-Nut (now part of Dorman) number for the steel concave plug is EXP-136.


 
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May be so but I looked up the big block parts. View attachment 1989435
I understand you did, but the pic is for a small block.
PE-113 (steel) or PE-113-B (brass) SM Block Mopar
1) Oil Galley, front behind cam T-plate x2 EPC-54 19/32" x2
2) Formed Cam Plug EPC-203 1 7/8" x1
3) Flat Cam Plug EP-20 1 7/8" x1
4) Block, water 1 front, 6 sides, 2 rear EPC-126 1 5/8" x9
5) Block/Head, water 1 front lower pass side, 1 ea. head front EPC-110 1 1/4" x3 (Need an extra 2 for the heads, rear)
6) Pipe Plug, 2 rear, 1 rear lifter galley (inside), 1 under oil filter plate PP-554 3/8"NPT x4
7) Pipe Plug, 1 rear PP-568 1/2"NPT x1

PE-114 (steel) or PE-114-B (brass) BB Mopar
1) Cam Plug EPC-84 2 9/64" x1
2) Block, water 6 sides, EPC-126 1 5/8" x6
3) Pipe Plug, 2 rear, 2 front under timing cover PP-554 3/8"NPT x4 (Need an extra for the fuel pump rod)

4) Heads need 4 EPC-110 1 1/4" and 4 EPC-16 1" as they are not included in the kit
 
Doing a re-seal on my 1962 413. The rear cam plug is a disc style, measuring 2 - 9/64 inch / 2.14 diameter. I have a cup style plug, but it's to deep. Recess in the block is .3 inches. I've searched all over the web for the disc style, but to no avail. Can anyone direct me to a source for these early discs? I'd be open to using a cup style if I could find one that is .3 inch deep.View attachment 1989384

View attachment 1989386
The flat disc plug you need is EP-44 2 1/8" Mopar PN#1852177 You MUST be careful not to push the middle of the plug in to far as it WILL rub on the cam. The action of flattening the curved plug will push the center in too far. I have made these tools with the center relieved to install them and not push the center in too far. Also, if you install the plug too far, you end up removing the pressure exerted by the outside circumference as it will pull back. This is how they are removed, smack them in to release the pressure and use a slide hammer (dent puller) to pull them out.

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Thanks all for the info. It seems that a lot of these plugs spec out at 2 1/8 inch (2.12) as opposed to 2 9/64 inch (2.14). A total difference of 1/64 smaller. Would you see any fitment issues using these 1/64 inch smaller units? Upon install, will the cup expand enough to fill this undersize?
 
Thanks all for the info. It seems that a lot of these plugs spec out at 2 1/8 inch (2.12) as opposed to 2 9/64 inch (2.14). A total difference of 1/64 smaller. Would you see any fitment issues using these 1/64 inch smaller units? Upon install, will the cup expand enough to fill this undersize?
I believe so. Put a little amount of sealant in the recess before the plug.
Mike
 
Thanks all for the info. It seems that a lot of these plugs spec out at 2 1/8 inch (2.12) as opposed to 2 9/64 inch (2.14). A total difference of 1/64 smaller. Would you see any fitment issues using these 1/64 inch smaller units? Upon install, will the cup expand enough to fill this undersize?

The concave welch plug expands when partially flattened spreading the edge to seal in the opening.

  1. After removal of the old plug, deburr and clean the counterbore opening. Dry the opening with solvent.
  2. Apply a small amount of sealer to the corner of the step of the opening. Permatex #1 or Indian Head Gasket Shellac is a good choice of sealer.
  3. Place the plug in the opening with the dome side up (concave side down).
  4. Use a suitable tool to partially flatten the domed part of the plug to wedge the plug into place.
    1. The plug should be installed with a tool similar to that shown in the following image. The tool diameter is about 80-95% of the counterbore diameter (D).
      concave_expansion_plug_tool.png

    2. The tool should be designed with a step depth to bottom out when the plug is flattened 30% or more of its formed height but never flattened completely. When partially flattened, the edges of the plug spread outward and seal the opening.
    3. Chrysler specified Miller Special Tool C-897 to install the plug.
  5. Drive the plug squarely into the hole. The shoulder on the driving tool should bottom out on the part the plug is being driven into. This will control alignment and proper depth.
    NOTE: If driving without a formal tool, without a shoulder stop, use something round with an inset in the middle and drive squarely while approximating the flattening to be about 30%. Do not over flatten. See post #11 for a fabricated tool and note the usage.
  6. If the engine is disassembled, tap the plug from the other side with a wooden dowel to ensure it is wedged tight.

Tool C-897 looks similar to the following image (this is not the exact driver though):
Installer.jpg
 
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Ibought a 555-070 Dorman cup.plug at the local auto parts today. It's .232" thick. It about .020" larger than 2 9/64. But I've been using it with no issues. Same plug i just removed from my race motor.
Doug

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17704221539353869244893693295567.jpg


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The concave welch plug expands when partially flattened spreading the edge to seal in the opening.

  1. After removal of the old plug, deburr and clean the counterbore opening. Dry the opening with solvent.
  2. Apply a small amount of sealer to the corner of the step of the opening. Permatex #1 or Indian Head Gasket Shellac is a good choice of sealer.
  3. Place the plug in the opening with the dome side up (concave side down).
  4. Use a suitable tool to partially flatten the domed part of the plug to wedge the plug into place.
    1. The plug should be installed with a tool similar to that shown in the following image. The tool diameter is about 80-95% of the counterbore diameter (D).
      View attachment 1990100
    2. The tool should be designed with a step depth to bottom out when the plug is flattened 30% or more of its formed height but never flattened completely. When partially flattened, the edges of the plug spread outward and seal the opening.
    3. Chrysler specified Miller Special Tool C-897 to install the plug.
  5. Drive the plug squarely into the hole. The shoulder on the driving tool should bottom out on the part the plug is being driven into. This will control alignment and proper depth.
    NOTE: If driving without a formal tool, without a shoulder stop, use something round with an inset in the middle and drive squarely while approximating the flattening to be about 30%. Do not over flatten. See post #11 for a fabricated tool and note the usage.
  6. If the engine is disassembled, tap the plug from the other side with a wooden dowel to ensure it is wedged tight.

Tool C-897 looks similar to the following image (this is not the exact driver though):
View attachment 1990096
Thanks for this. I'll probably make something similar.
 
Hi Charlie;
I have a 2 9/64" cup plug you can have. It came out of a previously unopened bag of engine plugs. You can have this plug, or the whole bag, if you want, for the cost of shipping. DM me with your shipping info.
Dave
 
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