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Rear differential & suspension refresh

Black Oxide treatment for the rest of the harware -

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Looking at the spring plates it looks like the shock mount stud was friction welded to the plate - what do you think? I thought friction welding was a fairly new technology.

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My Dad bought this car in 1976 after my parents got divorced. It was his hotrod and one of the things he did to it was to paint the brake drums blue to match the body paint. I think this was pretty commonn back then. At some point he re-painted them black, you can see the old blue paint in this pic - I remember noticing the blue drums when I was a kid, I thought it was pretty cool back then and still do, is anybody aware of a hi temp paint (blue in color) that could withstand the heat?

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On the shock plates for my 65, I did add some weld on the backsides of the studs.
 
It was 107 degrees Sunday but I really wanted to get some work done on this thing. My brother came over and I busted out the mobile swamp cooler - boy what a difference it makes!

It was a sad day too - my across the street neighbor (house with garage door open) had died the previous day - one of the few car guys in the "hood"

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I had finished painting and assembling the second leaf spring a couple days ago. The housing paint had had a few days to dry so now it was time to assemble the diff. I did my best to not screw up any of the paint but you know - also one of my original wheel cylinder bolts broke so I had to use 1 new bolt, see it?

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I really happy with the contrast between the cast iron & bare steel parts. I had to buy a reproduction Sure-Grip Lube tag, the original was damaged. New vent bolt & brake hose installed. The bumper on the snubber is the original & it looks brand new. I guess the fact that it never saw UV light in 58 years would be the explanation.

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No pictures of it but we got the diff back in the car - The shop supervisor approved of our work.

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I had finished painting and assembling the second leaf spring a couple days ago. The housing paint had had a few days to dry so now it was time to assemble the diff. I did my best to not screw up any of the paint but you know - also one of my original wheel cylinder bolts broke so I had to use 1 new bolt, see it?

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Can't see it from my house.
 
Can anybody tell me what the torque spec is for the U-bolts?

Also - how much friction modifier to put into the diff?
 
The diff on my '66 Coronet 440 convertible is leaking everywhere except the pinion. Time to pull it out and reseal it and since it will be apart I'll rebuild the suspension also. Everything will get cleaned blasted and painted the proper colors. Here is the car next to the 2025 MATS givaway car a '66 Satellite convertible. My dad bought the car in 1976 and I inherited it when he died in 2009. It is a 383 4bbl / automatic, 3.23 suregrip car with lots of cool options the best of which is power windows. It's had those same American S200 wheels on it since 1979!

The FSM says 45 ft/lb for 8 3/4 and Dana 60 axles...

Just one 4oz bottle. Motorcraft is recommended by Dr Diff. Local Ford dealers have it or summit.
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Thanks for the info guys !
 
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