Rebuilding LemonWedge.

[RemCharger]

Happy New Year to all! Hope you all had a fun and safe celebration.

Hernia surgery and holiday family time has slowed progress with the car some. But I got back out in the garage for a short time today. Stripped the suspension off the bent K-member, and in the process came across a discrepancy between my original and the donor K I sourced. The idler arm mount is different between the two. The donor K-member is supposedly out of a 70 383 Roadrunner. Did the idler arm assembly change between 67 & 70?
What’s my best path to tackle this variable?
see pics; original frame black. Donor Blue.
My idler arm does not fit within the boxed mount on the new K-member.

View attachment 1971763

View attachment 1971764

View attachment 1971765

View attachment 1971766

Shouldn't be hard to locate the new style idler arm.

 

[malex]

I run the same K frame in my 64. It’s from a 69 Runner.

 

[LemonWedge]

Shouldn't be hard to locate the new style idler arm.

I guess that answers my question. Shouldn’t be an issue then.

 

[LemonWedge]

the Blue is a late K , 66/67 on ? With idler arm mounted between ears and bolt through . More secure and easier idler to buy .
Looks like original was a early K frame - idler arm has pin at each end ?
If so the blue K will move motor back due to change in mount position .
My understanding later k bolts same spot uses same linkages bar idler arm .
PS : guess you will be pushing firewall back and modding crossmember to suit . And prob shorten tailshaft . Oh joy ;-(
Tex

I suppose this is how we learn. Everything I read said the K-members were the same…. Apparently not (?). If there was a change in engine location, it must not have been much. Both Hooker and Doug’s list the same headers for both 67 & 70 B-Body vehicles. For what it’s worth or applies here, my car was built in late 66.

The good news Tex, is that my plans include a motorplate. So the K-member won’t dictate engine location.
One of my racing buddies loaned me his plasma cutter; I’m going to take this K-member to the surgery room anyway, the only mounts left when I’m done will be the steering box and idler arm.

A quick Look at Summit identifies Moog P#K7041 for a ‘70 roadrunner, which the K-member is supposedly out of. Looks correct, will be in my next Summit order. Looking at the two designs, the captive bolt through design would appear to be the superior design, especially for a car that will be picking up and setting down the front suspension regularly.

 

[malex]

I suppose this is how we learn. Everything I read said the K-members were the same…. Apparently not (?). If there was a change in engine location, it must not have been much. Both Hooker and Doug’s list the same headers for both 67 & 70 B-Body vehicles. For what it’s worth or applies here, my car was built in late 66.

The good news Tex, is that my plans include a motorplate. So the K-member won’t dictate engine location.
One of my racing buddies loaned me his plasma cutter; I’m going to take this K-member to the surgery room anyway, the only mounts left when I’m done will be the steering box and idler arm.

A quick Look at Summit identifies Moog P#K7041 for a ‘70 roadrunner, which the K-member is supposedly out of. Looks correct, will be in my next Summit order. Looking at the two designs, the captive bolt through design would appear to be the superior design, especially for a car that will be picking up and setting down the front suspension regularly.

View attachment 1972020

The bolt through design idler is said to be the superior (improved) design. LW my motor is moved back to the point that the right side valve cover “just” clears the firewall when removing. The trans tunnel joints are trimmed down, no other mods other than the cross member which now accommodates a single stud urethane mount. Trans blanket needs to be installed before raising trans into place. Good to hear you’re back at it.

 

[dvw]

The bolt thru design is definately more robust. Mine runs the early style. My bet is that is a major cause of front wheel osciillation coming down from a wheel stand. Do check that the centerlink is parallel to the ground. Had more than a few that the bracket holes are in the wrong plane causing the center link to be high/low on the passenger side. Easy fix. Just check it before everythings painted an nice.
Doug