Rebuilding LemonWedge.

[dvw]

Motor mounts gone. Guess I’m committed to the motorplate now. Still a lot to do; Trim the pinchweld shelf next. Then all the welding and probably some body filler before paint. But I’m pretty encouraged by what I’m seeing so far.

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Don't forget the oil pan cut out. When you can get the pan off with a straight extension and socket in less than 30 minutes you will be a happy camper.
Doug

 

[LemonWedge]

Hoping I can find a halfway decent set of wheelwell lip moldings. Repops are available on eBay, I’m hoping I don’t have to cough up $500+ for them though. If you have a line on a set, please let me know.

WTB - WTB 67 Plymouth Belvedere wheelwell lip trim

 

[LemonWedge]

Continuing work on the K-member.
1. Rough cut with the plasma cutter
2 & 3. Cleaned up & straightened with the grinder; exposing the seam.
4 & 5. Welded up.

This thing must’ve been in a dirt-track car before I got it. I bet I’ve taken 3 lbs of dirt & grime out of it.

 

[LemonWedge]

Don't forget the oil pan cut out. When you can get the pan off with a straight extension and socket in less than 30 minutes you will be a happy camper.
Doug

Probably going to call it good with the stock shape, Doug. Spent some time looking at it, and with the contoured factory cutouts @ the bottom, I’m just not sure my fabrication skills or tooling are up to re-shaping this thing. Goal was to trim a few lbs. I’ve accomplished that.

 

[dvw]

Probably going to call it good with the stock shape, Doug. Spent some time looking at it, and with the contoured factory cutouts @ the bottom, I’m just not sure my fabrication skills or tooling are up to re-shaping this thing. Goal was to trim a few lbs. I’ve accomplished that.

Makes oil pan removal a snap. It's lighter. It's really easy. You can do it. Start with a hole saw. Drill thru two holes for the inner corners. Then make the three cuts that connect the holes. Now you have a nice U shaped cutout. Bend two L shaped pieces. I used 1/8" material. Bend them over deep socket in the vice that creates the correct radius to fit the previously drilled corner hole. Make them slightly oversize in width and length. Making two pieces keeps you from having to make the piece the perfect length to fit the opening. The only gap that needs to be fitted now is where the two L pieces meet in the center. Trim those ends until they but in the middle of the opening. They can hang over the bottom, top, and ends. Tack weld the pieces in the hole. Trim off the excess around the edges. Finish weld. I filled the holes in the bottom openings afterwards. The fillers in the bottom holes are just sheet metal. But that was just done for looks. Done more than a few K frames for others that the bottom openings are still left open. My sons is like that. Actually did his in the car.
Doug

 

[ckessel]

When I was working on the 70 unit for my 65, I'd already had it tanked twice before working it over. As I was welding away on it, dang thing still had grease etc coming out with the heat from welding.

 

[fullmetaljacket]

When I was working on the 70 unit for my 65, I'd already had it tanked twice before working it over. As I was welding away on it, dang thing still had grease etc coming out with the heat from welding.

Good thorough cleaning with degreaser, dishwashing liquid and water and then finally with Alcohol will get that pup ready for the heat in the kitchen.