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Rebuilding original water pump

I have the opposite problem on my '65 Formula S Barracuda. Someone took the factory A/C off, and it runs 220 at the stop lights in the summer. You would think it would not do that, has stock built 318 now and radiator was refurbished (no shroud, I guess it had one originally).
 
Shroud,shroud..at least
 
I don't know why, but I have read this 10 times and can't make sense of it?

"As a general rule, cooling systems are designed to operate with a coolant temperature of about 190 degrees F at the radiator inlet and have about a 10 degree F temperature drop through the radiator at rated power and rated coolant flow. This will result in a bottom tank temperature of 180 degrees F."

I took an infra temp gun to my Road Runner a few months back. The top radiator hose was 188F, the bottom was 155F. This is at idle in the front yard. Does the "at rated power" mean at some RPM for MAX HP output????

As for adding rows not allowing an improvement; the transfer of heat to air has to increase if the surface area increases. I'm misisng something here.
 
Okay, I think I get it now now. Delta temp is a constant. This does not change throughout the cycle. Right?
 
Are you sure the hose was filled with coolant or steam? I don't know how you make that measurement without probes you know are in the coolant.
 
I wonder with your comparison information could the flying Dutchman take your GMB and rebuild it to the NOS pump?

Your experience has me concerned. You've proven not just with this water pump fiasco, but other components as well that many items for these cars are substandard nowadays.
 
I wonder with your comparison information could the flying Dutchman take your GMB and rebuild it to the NOS pump?

Your experience has me concerned. You've proven not just with this water pump fiasco, but other components as well that many items for these cars are substandard nowadays.

I don't know. I doubt if he could find parts for the GMB pump, they are likely all metric and weird would be my guess.
 
First meaningful drive to Tucson this morning with the NOS water pump. Here is the skinny on what I discovered between the GMB and the AC and non-AC Chrysler pumps. I did find some significant differences in the GMB that I theorized would make it pump worse than the OEM and have higher stresses on the bearing causing failures sooner.

http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/mopar...net-500-project.114333/page-48#post-910739734

So the results so far. Left home and it was 63F this morning on the mountain. Drove down to the valley and the interstate. The temperature never reached the 180F thermostat temp (about 70F at this point in the drive). That has never happened. By the time I get to the interstate it is on the thermostat (180F thermostat). Driving 15 minutes on the interstate at 75/80MPH it never got above 183 even when entering Tucson at 77F outside temp. It has never done that. Driving the surface streets it would get to 183F at the red light and immediately drop to 181F once moving at 77F outside temperature. In Tucson since I started driving it in April it has never/ever been able to stay regulated at the thermostat temperature, ever..... I am feeling good..... We will really see tonight when I head home at 100F and the AC on.... The only other thing is a added 2 bottles of Purple Ice (snake oil?) as I did read a comparison it did help a little. To be continued......
 
This month's MOPAR MUSCLE magazine has a cooling article. They show a 'triple flow' stock looking radiator that circulates coolant into one third sections of the radiator.
They also claim that a MILODAN 160 degree thermostat is a MUST. Finally, they show a high flow water pump that is recommended. Great article.

Glad you have it fixed, Jim. For the 100th time you have proven that today's replacement parts are not as good as the original OEM Ma MOPAR stuff. What are we going to do when that NOS dries up?
 
This month's MOPAR MUSCLE magazine has a cooling article. They show a 'triple flow' stock looking radiator that circulates coolant into one third sections of the radiator.
They also claim that a MILODAN 160 degree thermostat is a MUST. Finally, they show a high flow water pump that is recommended. Great article.

Glad you have it fixed, Jim. For the 100th time you have proven that today's replacement parts are not as good as the original OEM Ma MOPAR stuff. What are we going to do when that NOS dries up?

I worked 10 years in GM dealerships. There was never, ever any question in my mind that OEM parts are far superior the aftermarket. I saw it day in and day out.
 
100F day in Tucson the normal drive on the Interstate with the AC blasting just ticked a bit over 200F. The normal is about 206-209 so I am thinking this morning was about right, it is about 5-6 degrees cooler with the OEM pump and a few bottles of purple ice. Not a miracle but not nothing either.
 
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