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Rebuilt trans troubles

Randra

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I got the bee started after an engine and transmission rebuild. It wouldn't shift out of park but eventually did. I had reverse and drive. So I shifted it back to park and it wouldn't lock into park. So I checked my linkage and tried to readjust. It has park now. But now it doesn't shift into 2nd or low. The travel on the trans lever seems to be to far. I figure I'll have to take it back to the rebuilder. Any thoughts ?
 
Column shift or floor shift? 727 ? Picture(s) would really help in the diagnosis if you have any.
 
More detail would help, as already said. Is the shifter aftermarket? Was the same valve body used? I gav a complete trans to ATI. They gave me back a different trans with the wrong park rod. It was full manual.so I was using an aftermarket shifter. Nut they could have mixed up the shift levers on the trans. Need more info.
 
Column shift 727. It shifted before I started it.
 
I got the bee started after an engine and transmission rebuild. It wouldn't shift out of park but eventually did. I had reverse and drive. So I shifted it back to park and it wouldn't lock into park. So I checked my linkage and tried to readjust. It has park now. But now it doesn't shift into 2nd or low. The travel on the trans lever seems to be to far. I figure I'll have to take it back to the rebuilder. Any thoughts ?

If you took it to them with both levers on the transmission, I would suspect that they misplaced the original lever and put a different shift lever on in it's place. There's a difference in the radius measurement between column and floor shifters arms. Do not try to force anything. Check first for worn or loose linkage. With the column shift in PARK and the tranny lever pushed to the PARK position ( all the way back )the rod end should drop in the shift lever's hole cleanly ( no binding ). Remove the rod end and shift the tranny lever to LOW and the column shift to the same position. Again, the rod should drop cleanly into the hole of the tranny lever. If not then you got the wrong lever. Keep in mind, when it comes to shift levers, the shorter the distance from the rod hole to the center of the shift lever post, the shorter the throw to find all gears and vise versa when the radius of the two pivots points is longer. I can't really see this but is the lever upside down? Call the shop, explain your issue and let them deal with it, after all. you paid to have it done right.
 
When setting the shifter up, i am under the car, with a helper up top.i move the shifter lever on the trans, while the helper shifts the column shifter to the same position. I put the lever in 1, helper puts shifter in 1. I do this while adjusting the shift rod under the car til it's right. There are different factory levers, that's why I asked if you about them. Is it the same trans you gave them?
 
The thing is it shifted from park to low before I started it.
 
Inspect all linkage bushings rods and pivots for interference and wear. All good? Then disconnect the shift linkage at the trans. Does the trans itself detent in all positions? Does park lock? The 904 and 727 internal park rods are different, yet they use the same valve body. There are also different shaft arms that attach to the trans at the valve body pivot.
Doug
 
You pretty much need to climb under the car with someone in the drivers seat and start from Park, and work your way through each detente(P,R,1,2,3) making sure the rod slides in and out easily in every detente on the trans side.

I just went through all this with an aftermarket shifter and found my "cable throw" was an inch too long. If your using factory stuff then it should land each detente perfectly.
 
Turns out the valve body is cracked. Anybody have an extra or a recommendation? The trans is a 66. I also read that this is a common problem with the older transmissions
 
Apparently it's cracked next to the pressure regulator valve. A Google search showed it to be a common problem.
 
Cope reverse manual valve body time!!

I love mine!

I converted mine using the mopar plate in valve body. I did this in the 70's and it's been in my car since 1990. Does the Cope have the harsh 1-2 shift I have? I'm kind of sick of it other than that it was fun. Now I'd rather put in gear and go. Like I said it was fun and I wouldn't tell anyone not to do it. If you get tired of it another valve body all fixed.
 
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I converted mine using the mopar plate in valve body. I did this in the 70's and it's been in my car since 1990. Does the Cope have the harsh 1-2 shift I have? I'm kind of sick of it other than that it was fun. Now I'd rather put in gear and go. Like I said it was fun and I wouldn't tell anyone not to do it. If you get tired of it another valve body all fixed.
I'm not wanting s race car. Just want to drive it. So I'm thinking of getting a stock valve.
 
If me I would go at least for a TF-1 (transgo) update on v.body. A little extra timing& extra oil in the right places.
 
Most of the transmission parts houses stock valve bodies but they are pretty pricey. You might post a WTB add in the Classified forum. I would be cautious of just sticking a valve body from who knows where in there just so you can drive it. They were set up and calibrated to the engines. If you can find one that is sure enough out of a 383 HP or 440 coded transmission then you should be OK. If not I would at least consider putting a TransGo TF1 valve body in it which is pretty much just a tune up kit for street performance and towing vehicles. But at least it will help with getting the valve body better calibrated to your Super Bee. And the kits can be had for around $50 and the transmission will function in the factory mode.
 
Dang - Oldbee beat me to it by 1 minute.
 
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