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Recore or replace?

Now back to reality. Is your car show quality? Do you drive it daily? You stated you were open to aluminum. Are you going to do a full restoration? Is money a consideration or have it to throw around?
A modern 2 row, with 1.25" rows, aluminum from a reputable company, not ebay or Amazon, will be around $600ish. Were $300ish about 3yrs ago. You can get 2 row 1" rows for $300 still and more than capable of cooling a stock 383/440. Will cool extremely well. Then keep the original for later if you do decide to do a restoration. Then pay the big $$$ for a recore.

I live in Fort Mohave AZ where temps are 120-125° and have no issues w aluminum in my 496" stroker.
Not for sure if you mean rows or tubes. A 26” 2 row 1” tubes like the ones from Made in the USA BeCool Radiators can easily cool 1000 HP motors idling in the Mojove Desert with the correct fans and so forth. The rows are 1.25” but the tubes are 1” if that makes sense.
 
Here's one of Glenray's on my '63, and I'm quite happy with it.
View attachment 1453309View attachment 1453310
I think a Few of us here will be waiting to see who that will be ? Post them up when you have a chance, Thanks...
Glen Ray does good work and that radiator looks great but they are local shops all over the USA as others have mentioned that, don’t need to advertise, save you alot of money because they are local, been in the business as long or longer and do just as good or better work then Glen Ray. You may not be as fortunate as I am but I have at least 5 people within 30 minutes of me that can recore and 2 of them is on par with GR, 1 maybe better, he owns a few Mopars and recores radiators for my dads heavy equipment. If I ever get back over to his shop I’ll take a pic of his GTX and RR radiator.
 
This is a timely post for me as my 70 Bee was running really hot w/ original 22" rad w/ shroud w/ 160 degree thermostat, possibily causing vapour lock (wouldn't start hot). Last week I swapped to a 26" Champion Monster 4 core (w/ Mopar shroud) and 180 thermostat, what a difference! Sits at 180 now, much more re-assuring in Toronto traffic.

IMG_8284.jpg
 
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Thanks guys for all of the advice. I went to a shop here in Tucson-Speed & Machine warehouse and chatted it up with a great sales guy behind the counter. Told him the deal with the original Chrysler stamped 22" copper/brass radiator and he said even though it was 2-row(weird) that if i through a couple hundred at it and they could get it all cleaned out,i'd be better off with it than a high buck aluminum one. So the radiator shop is going to tank it and pressure test it and decide if rodding it is right or too big of a waste. The car is not a SHOW car just a non numbers matching daily driver funmobile. I told the guy at the shop to find me an aluminum one that will drop right in with no mods or fabricating. they are out there,but some are spendy. So i'll wait and see what happens with the tank dip and make a choice. I don't believe everybody in the desert runs a aluminum radiator cuz it gets HOT here.
A factory radiator from 1970 in a big block mopar if clean and not plugged should cool enough to not be on the side of the road. 53 years later and we have to have aluminum radiators,as i'm sure they do their jobs maybe better.
I don't want to buy into all the hype or snakeoil.
 
Someone also said to make sure that the aluminum radiator is rubber isolation mounted,don't know about that.
 
Not for sure if you mean rows or tubes. A 26” 2 row 1” tubes like the ones from Made in the USA BeCool Radiators can easily cool 1000 HP motors idling in the Mojove Desert with the correct fans and so forth. The rows are 1.25” but the tubes are 1” if that makes sense.
Mine was from Entropy, true 1.25" tubes w .25" space between the 2 rows making the core 2.75" thick. I am well aware of what they will cool. Most on here, over 98%, don't drive in temps over 105° n think that's hot. I'm assuming you are reading their web page propaganda. Kinda like all the e-fan companies that "claim" their fans will cool 1,000hp w a/c. I unfortunately had to use trial n error w 3 different aluminum radiators and 3 different shrouded e-fans, all of which made certain claims. Entropy radiator w factory shroud and 19" direct drive mechanical fan cool mine. No e-fan would work. 2 of the radiators did not work.
 
Mine was from Entropy, true 1.25" tubes w .25" space between the 2 rows making the core 2.75" thick. I am well aware of what they will cool. Most on here, over 98%, don't drive in temps over 105° n think that's hot. I'm assuming you are reading their web page propaganda. Kinda like all the e-fan companies that "claim" their fans will cool 1,000hp w a/c. I unfortunately had to use trial n error w 3 different aluminum radiators and 3 different shrouded e-fans, all of which made certain claims. Entropy radiator w factory shroud and 19" direct drive mechanical fan cool mine. No e-fan would work. 2 of the radiators did not work.
Why would I assume when BeCool is exactly what I run. Most people who have trouble running E-Fans don’t have enough idling amps in their alternators. It’s hard to meet that claim of say 3000 cfm or whatever it is when your alternator is only letting your fans put out half that or less at idle.
 
Why would I assume when BeCool is exactly what I run. Most people who have trouble running E-Fans don’t have enough idling amps in their alternators. It’s hard to meet that claim of say 3000 cfm or whatever it is when your alternator is only letting your fans put out half that or less at idle.
So your engine has 1,000hp and you drive it in 120° summer temps? As for e-fans, on 66-67 b bodies w big blocks, the shape of the flat square shroud and the front of the cars creates a high pressure zone behind the radiator restricting airflow at speeds over 40mph. At idle they actually work. Again, real world experience in 120+ daily temps.
 
So your engine has 1,000hp and you drive it in 120° summer temps? As for e-fans, on 66-67 b bodies w big blocks, the shape of the flat square shroud and the front of the cars creates a high pressure zone behind the radiator restricting airflow at speeds over 40mph. At idle they actually work. Again, real world experience in 120+ daily temps.
I see where this going. I’ve drove my car in 100+ summer temps and the fans still won’t kick on unless it’s idling or I hit that AC button 600+ HP 2800 CFM puller fans. I’d say my car would easily cool in 120+ weather. Was in Phoenix last year for a couple days before heading to Hawaii. It got up close to 110 a few days. The Open grill on my 70 does a good job feeding the air and fan shroud has vents also.

37D54787-0E79-40F9-96D2-A27C1A449BFB.jpeg
 
This is a timely post for me as my 70 Bee was running really hot w/ original 22" rad w/ shroud w/ 160 degree thermostat, possibily causing vapour lock (wouldn't start hot). Last week I swapped to a 26" Champion Monster 4 core (w/ Mopar shroud) and 180 thermostat, what a difference! Sits at 180 now, much more re-assuring in Toronto traffic.

View attachment 1453359

To cure vapor lock, make sure you have a vapor return line.

This is the fuel filter you would want to run, post-fuel pump: WIX 33040

Also, a heat shield is mandatory: Order Products

It would also help to insulate the fuel line, leading up the the carburetor from the fuel pump.

You can tap right into the filler neck with your vapor return line.

This will solve most of the problems that the radiator didn't. To me, most of these items are mandatory now in modern traffic.
 
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Not tried the electric fan idea.No! It's not a show car,just a very nice daily driver if i choose to take it out for a spin. The temps here in the desert are starting back up and i don't take her out in that unless it's early am or evening. Don't feel the need to go out in those temps. Fall is coming.
Short early drives or run it up to operating temperature in the garage.
 
Not tried the electric fan idea.No! It's not a show car,just a very nice daily driver if i choose to take it out for a spin. The temps here in the desert are starting back up and i don't take her out in that unless it's early am or evening. Don't feel the need to go out in those temps. Fall is coming.
Short early drives or run it up to operating temperature in the garage.

There is really no hype or snake oil with aluminum radiators. Every modern car or truck runs an aluminum radiator; from a Kia Sorento to a RAM 5500.

I noticed on the OE radiator I pulled out of my W200 last weekend (50K original replaced with aluminum), that the structure surrounding the transmission cooler inlet was paper thin. That's scary, and the last thing you want to rupture while on the highway, down a forest road, or in traffic.
 
I stopped down to the radiator shop today and got the news i sort of was anticipating,they tanked it and pressure tested (good). They seem to think it's ab out 20% plugged and could be rodded but no guaranties. It's back in the garage for maybe another time. Found an aluminum 2-row 1-1/4" tubes through a shop in minnesota..Ebay...It's a gamble but we'll see.Going to dry fit it when it arrives and see if i have to modify,but it's supposed to fit right down to my factory shroud.
Heard something today from the radiator shop "When mounting the radiator to the support to use rubber isolation washers so none of the aluminum makes contact with the core support due in part to any grounds on the support will cause the battery to create electrolisys in the radiator and cause premature corrosion.
Any truth to that?....I sucked at chemistry in high school!!
 
Contact GlenRay Radiator’s. He may have one in stock or send yours to him. You can also save on the shipping costs to him by cutting the core out and just send him the side tanks and brackets.
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&ved=2ahUKEwiEz6al6bj-AhWEGVkFHenyBb8QFnoECAoQAQ&url=https://www.restorationradiators.com/&usg=AOvVaw3TLBVKBDCJGqOf-eEUVJEP
Glen-RAY also offers a max cooling core assembled to your top and bottom tanks, that will cool better than the origional. REMEMBER....its not the number of tubes but the fins per inch (the WW folded items between the tubes) that determine the efficiency......Suggest you call Glenn Ray and talk with Bob....he'll quote price/delivery over the phone....great company excellent warranty.
BOB RENTON
 
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People around the world have been recoring rads for 100 years. Glen Ray is not the only place left
Yes they have but in my old age I have noticed that finding a real radiator shop with a real radiator man has gone the same way as trying to find a real parts man, or even a real tire man.
 
I see this being chatted up here and just wanted to throw out a couple of questions to everyone. I have a stock 383 in my 70rr that has been running quite hot. By the dash gauge it moves up quick to 200-230*,but I hear that those factory gauges can be off by 30 degrees or so. I have a 160* thermostat and when I run here in Arizona she gets very hot. The other day got back from a ride out to my buddies shop and it was about 80* outside and was 45mph moving traffic and the dash gauge went to to max.260*. When I got back the over flow tank (plastic) was boiling like a pan on the stove. Kinda scary!!
Went to pull the factory 22” out and noticed draining out the coolant that it seemed I never really got the 14.5 quarts + the engine blocks worth of coolant.
My buddy suggested that this old copper/brass factory radiator is done or plugged and to make the leap to a 2row aluminum unit and cooling problem solved. I’d like to keep a factory radiator in it cause that’s what came in it. Worked for 53 years why not another 53? The question to anyone is: Is it worth it to recore this original and maybe get it dipped and rodded or get a replacement factory or go aftermarket aluminum?
Sorry for the longgg speech!
Thanks!!

View attachment 1453149
i wouldgo with a 3 row copper /brass if i was u so many of the aluminum r gm cross flow & dont cool right
 
I have the official 70 Charger Service manual and there is a footnote to NOT use a 160F thermostat. The perfect operating temp is 190F from the Dodge engineers for a stock car. I haven't seen 190F thermostats, but I installed a 180F Mr. Gasket thermostat. Your radiator looks small like the ones that came from the factory without A/C. Even though I don't have A/C either, I bought the 26" alumuminum radiator with 3 rows (not 2) - these were recommended for cars that did have A/C - I verified this from the manual. Now I have a big tank with the maximum heat transfer. Aluminum is more conductive and dissapates better - much better option in warmer climates too.

Unless your car is a show car or you plan on selling it soon, I would buy a new 3 row 26" aluminum rad, but keep the old one when you plan on selling it - you can leave it up to the new owner what they want to do with it.

I also detailed on my thread that I thoroghly flushed with Thermocure and it and ran it the system for several days to clean the system. It was very dirty. I wanted a new rad anyway.

Also I would consider wiring a Bosch temp gauge to have your temperature double checked - 30F off seems way high. Not saying yours is doing that. I also posted a thread on this.

The Flowkooler water pump is another option. In your case in Arizona, it sounds like a good idea in addition to the larger rad.

Even if you are in Arizona, the car should still technically run normal with a 180F thermostat.
 
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So your engine has 1,000hp and you drive it in 120° summer temps? As for e-fans, on 66-67 b bodies w big blocks, the shape of the flat square shroud and the front of the cars creates a high pressure zone behind the radiator restricting airflow at speeds over 40mph. At idle they actually work. Again, real world experience in 120+ daily temps.
I see where this going. I’ve drove my car in 100+ summer temps and the fans still won’t kick on unless it’s idling or I hit that AC button 600+ HP 2800 CFM puller fans. I’d say my car would easily cool in 120+ weather. Was in Phoenix last year for a couple days before heading to Hawaii. It got up close to 110 a few days. The Open grill on my 70 does a good job feeding the air and fan shroud has vents also.

View attachment 1453438
I do like this double fan option. Does this fit on 22" and 26" rads?
 
I have the official 70 Charger Service manual and there is a footnote to NOT use a 160F thermostat. The perfect operating temp is 190F from the Dodge engineers for a stock car. I haven't seen 190F thermostats, but I installed a 180F Mr. Gasket thermostat. Your radiator looks small like the ones that came from the factory without A/C. Even though I don't have A/C either, I bought the 26" alumuminum radiator with 3 rows (not 2) - these were recommended for cars that did have A/C - I verified this from the manual. Now I have a big tank with the maximum heat transfer. Aluminum is more conductive and dissapates better - much better option in warmer climates too.

Unless your car is a show car or you plan on selling it soon, I would buy a new 3 row 26" aluminum rad, but keep the old one when you plan on selling it - you can leave it up to the new owner what they want to do with it.

I also detailed on my thread that I thoroghly flushed with Thermocure and it and ran it the system for several days to clean the system. It was very dirty. I wanted a new rad anyway.

Also I would consider wiring a Bosch temp gauge to have your temperature double checked - 30F off seems way high. Not saying yours is doing that. I also posted a thread on this.

The Flowkooler water pump is another option. In your case in Arizona, it sounds like a good idea in addition to the larger rad.

Even if you are in Arizona, the car should still technically run normal with a 180F thermostat.
Actually copper/brass radiator is more conductive than aluminum. However they do not have the structural strength to make the tubes in the core the same as the aluminum and the aluminum is cheaper.
 
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