Removing Fuel Pump on GTX

[1969VAGTX]

I am about to address my failed fuel pump issue. In removing the fuel pump, are there any tips or tricks I need to be aware of to remove the pump? I am considering removing the alternator to give me more room to get to the pump since I am doing this with the car on the ground. Would appreciate any advice or things I should look out for when removing (and also reinstalling) the fuel pump. Thanks.

 

[PlymCrazy]

A little grease on the inner end of the fuel pump push rod will help hold it in place upon reinstalling. Rotating the engine so the push rod is on it's inner most stroke will save some grief upon install as well. Check for proper push rod length while you have it out already. Not sure on a 440, but on my 383 spec said 3.22" IIRC.

 

[Kern Dog]

Yes, whether you're working on a small or big block, removing the alternator helps you see and reach the fuel pump easier.

 

[radical rob]

Be ready to catch the pump rod as it tries to fall out when you remove the pump

 

[1969VAGTX]

Be ready to catch the pump rod as it tries to fall out when you remove the pump

I assume it is okay for the rod to fall out and that I just have to install it back in the side of the block when I go to reinstall the fuel pump?

 

[dadsbee]

Rod can't "fall out" unless you remove the hex plug from the block!! And no reason to do that unless you suspect your fuel pump issue is the push rod length.

 

[1969VAGTX]

Rod can't "fall out" unless you remove the hex plug from the block!! And no reason to do that unless you suspect your fuel pump issue is the push rod length.

Gotcha. I don't think the push rod is the issue. The fuel pump body had gas all over it when I noticed the problem so I am not exactly sure what the problem is. It did not appear to be a leak from a line. But can't hurt to just rebuild the pump and see how that turns out.

 

[Kern Dog]

Be ready to catch the pump rod as it tries to fall out when you remove the pump

You've never removed one of these, have you?
The pushrod will not fall out. To get it out, you have to remove the pipe plug in the block. The plug is below the hole the fuel pump bolts up to.

 

[RTDaddy]

It's very good idea to check the length of the fuel pump push rod while you've got the pump off. If the rod has been replaced along the way, some of the replacement rods are of softer metal and will wear, causing them to be too short and cause a false diagnosis of a bad fuel pump. You do not want to know how I know this. as said above, turn the motor over until the rod is stroked as far back into the block as it will go, and put a film of grease on the rod to hold it back in the block when you put the fuel pump on. Tighten the retaining bolts equally, and if it feels like one is getting tight without the other, or if the pump housing seems to be cocked to one side, stop and make sure the rod has not dropped down to one side of the pump arm. And yes, pull the alternator if you are doing this with the car on th eground. Hope this helps.

 

[1969VAGTX]

You've never removed one of these, have you?
The pushrod will not fall out. To get it out, you have to remove the pipe plug in the block. The plug is below the hole the fuel pump bolts up to.

View attachment 1565606

I did replace the fuel pump on an old 318 in my 69 Dart many years ago, but I didn't recall the push rod plug under it. I have not done this on a Hemi (maybe that makes no difference). Just asking so I don't screw something up since most of my knowledge is confined to Mopar small block engines.

 

[PlymCrazy]

I remove the plug holding in the push rod.
I do like to check the length as several folks around here have recommended to do that while the pump is out already.
I'm told it's recommended because of some poorly made push rods that are manufactured these days, and the metal composition can be questionable leading to premature wear.
One of my first threads on this site I believe is when I first was told that.
Maybe it's overkill.
And I personally like to have the push rod in it's inner most position before installing the pump. Maybe it's more work than necessary, but it always gets the job done right the first time in my experience.

 

[PlymCrazy]

I did replace the fuel pump on an old 318 in my 69 Dart many years ago, but I didn't recall the push rod plug under it. I have not done this on a Hemi (maybe that makes no difference). Just asking so I don't screw something up since most of my knowledge is confined to Mopar small block engines.

My small block does not have a plug, nor a push rod for the fuel pump. This is likely the case for that 318 of yours as well.

 

[zyzzyx]

Yes, I agree, take out the push rod and check the length! The stock push rods were heat
treated correctly but the "Chinesium" ones were not and could ruin your cam and make
metal filings travel through your engine.

 

[68BabyBlue]

If you have access to a lift, it's easier to get the pump in and out of a Hemi GTX from the bottom. A bit less wiggle room in these than the 440 cars. Changed the pump in mine without removing the alternator, but no way would that have happened working from above. Previous advice on push rod position is on the money. Retired Chrysler mechanic who sold me my first Imperial 30 years ago taught me same stuff.

 

[1969VAGTX]

Yes, I agree, take out the push rod and check the length! The stock push rods were heat
treated correctly but the "Chinesium" ones were not and could ruin your cam and make
metal filings travel through your engine.

I guess since I will already have the fuel pump out there is no harm in removing the plug to check it.

 

[1969VAGTX]

If you have access to a lift, it's easier to get the pump in and out of a Hemi GTX from the bottom. A bit less wiggle room in these than the 440 cars. Changed the pump in mine without removing the alternator, but no way would that have happened working from above. Previous advice on push rod position is on the money. Retired Chrysler mechanic who sold me my first Imperial 30 years ago taught me same stuff.

So follow up dumb question - how do I ensure that the push rod will be at the innermost position on reinstall? Otherwise, can the pump still be reinstalled even if the push rod is not at that position?

Unfortunately, I do not have access to a lift, so will have to try to make this work from the top. Thanks.

 

[68BabyBlue]

So follow up dumb question - how do I ensure that the push rod will be at the innermost position on reinstall? Otherwise, can the pump still be reinstalled even if the push rod is not at that position?

Unfortunately, I do not have access to a lift, so will have to try to make this work from the top. Thanks.

What I've done, is bump the starter, and check the position. When it's at the innermost position, you will be able to move your fingers around in the access area. If you are working alone, the grease is essential to getting the darn thing to stay in place. If dry, it will try to fall out. When the push rod is parked in the innermost position, you will be able to install the fuel pump with no load on the pump arm, making it easier to align things and bolt into place. With a load on the pump arm, it's darn near impossible to get it in place. Others may have different experience, this is just what I've seen on the four I've done.

 

[PlymCrazy]

So follow up dumb question - how do I ensure that the push rod will be at the innermost position on reinstall? Otherwise, can the pump still be reinstalled even if the push rod is not at that position?

Unfortunately, I do not have access to a lift, so will have to try to make this work from the top. Thanks.

With the pump removed, plug out and push rod in...insert a reference object into the plug hole (i.e. pencil, stick, finger lol) and bump the engine until the push rod is in its inner most spot of the cam revolution. Your pencil will slide in an out as the push rod rides the cam lobe.

edit: @68BabyBlue beat me by seconds ^^^^what he said^^^^

 

[1969VAGTX]

All the feedback is much appreciated. Just want to make sure I don't screw something up. Thanks.

 

[zyzzyx]

Piece of cake!