• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Replacement lug studs for 8-3/4

beanhead

Straining The Limits Of Machine And Man
FBBO Gold Member
Local time
1:54 AM
Joined
May 18, 2014
Messages
8,902
Reaction score
18,308
Location
Wackyfornia
I just wanted to pass this along. I recently put some AR Torq-Thrusts on my '68 and, like many of you have discovered, the factory studs are a bit short on thread engagement into the lug nut.
NHRA safety specs state, "thread engagement in the HEX portion of the lug nut must be equal to or greater than the stud diameter"...and that's also the general accepted industry standard for thread engagement. No big secret that modern aluminum rims are thicker in the hub area.
I really didn't want to go to the long 3" studs.
For our B-Body 1/2" studs , I used these....
20210206_123739.jpg


20210206_123815.jpg



A nice amount of extra length. The knurl size is slightly larger than OEM, but they pressed in just fine.
 
Yeah they'll work. In fact I almost bought those, but went with a similar part from the Summit because I could get them the next day....at the time I was buying them the Amazon part would have taken a week or longer.
The nice thing is they take a smaller 3/4" hex so they can be installed/removed without removing the Torq-thrust center caps. The center caps on the TT wheels interfere just enough with a 13/16"...
The important thing is to be certain that the extended shank will fit into the lugnut hole in the wheel. No problem on mine.
 
Yeah they'll work. In fact I almost bought those, but went with a similar part from the Summit because I could get them the next day....at the time I was buying them the Amazon part would have taken a week or longer.
The nice thing is they take a smaller 3/4" hex so they can be installed/removed without removing the Torq-thrust center caps. The center caps on the TT wheels interfere just enough with a 13/16"...
The important thing is to be certain that the extended shank will fit into the lugnut hole in the wheel. No problem on mine.


That's good to know about the hex size, it's such a pain in the *** to take off the center caps due to the tiny allen screws.

Could you post the link to the Summit lug nuts, when I did a search, only 7 results showed up and none were extended.
 
That's good to know about the hex size, it's such a pain in the *** to take off the center caps due to the tiny allen screws.

Could you post the link to the Summit lug nuts, when I did a search, only 7 results showed up and none were extended.
Boom!
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/crr-27804-4

Warning----they get expensive if you need enough for all four wheels as they only come in packs of 4.
 
About to get some torq thrust rims for my 67 coronet, how did you remove the existing studs?
 
About to get some torq thrust rims for my 67 coronet, how did you remove the existing studs?
The most 'proper' way is to remove the axles and press them out, you can do this with a bench vise. But, most folks leave the axles in and tap the studs out with a hammer. Just go easy....they shouldn't require much anger to get them moving.
 
I've used an air hammer with a bit like this one before:

https://www.amazon.com/Grey-Pneumatic-CH117-Diameter-Hammer/dp/B007QV9E4Y/ref=sr_1_3?crid=3E0FGKD5GUQ0C&dchild=1&keywords=air+hammer+bit&qid=1614751730&sprefix=air+hammer,aps,298&sr=8-3

I used a block of aluminum between the bit and the stud so as to not damage the old stud. A block of wood would probably work too.
It works for installing them too.


About to get some torq thrust rims for my 67 coronet, how did you remove the existing studs?
 
I'm curious if these extended acorns would work for the Torq Thrusts if you have all R/H thread.

https://www.amazon.com/20pc-Chrome-...n+1/2+x+20&qid=1614743547&s=automotive&sr=1-1

I bought a set of those lug nuts from NewEgg.com and have been very happy with them. There is lots of thread engagement with the extended shank (although it sounds like that doesn't meet NHRA standards if that is important to you) and the shank is a nice close fit in the hole in the wheel, which I see as a good thing. I also bought aluminum hub centring rings, as Mopars are designed to use hub centric wheels rather than lug centric. Overall, I am very happy with the wheels mounted this way. Cheers!
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top