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ring and pinion swap

You need a consistent and accurate point if reference. The whole point of the procedure is to compensate for any inconsistency in the housing casting. For all intents and purposes, a dedicated pinion depth tool replicates how the factory would have done it.

The pucks used in the T&D tool represent a standardized measurement point which takes the guess work out of it. The adjuster threads are machined into the case which provides a static reference for repeatable results.

Sure you can do it however you want but the tool makes it easier to just do what you need to do rather than futzing around with some alternate method.
 
I didn’t know much about rebuilding rears, but I know a lot more after watching this 4 part how to. Still will probably have trouble if I tackle one and I don’t have all these tools but I understand the theory and practical a lot better than I did.

I watched a lot of other vids over past 4 days and this shop teacher at a state college is thorough. Slow and methodical, like you are taking a class. Worth it if you want to give the time.

This is part 4 about putting it back together but the whole series was wort it, but quite long.

He doesn’t do short cuts like, honing test bearing, or putting pinion in icebox, not that’s bad, but did use a hot plate on ring gear to heat it up to get it on carrier.


He’s working on a 63 Chevy 3rd member that’s a little smaller but looks and seems to function extremely similar to 8.75 and is using a powr-lok limited slip.

Experts thoughts encouraged.
Warning 2 hours long on this set-up stage 4, of 4 part series.


 
I have yet to find a "good" video of a 8 3/4 being assembled. I will watch the above video, thanks for the link.
So the pinion depth gauge gets the pinion to a known spec correct?
In theory this should be very close to where it needs to be correct?

Then pattern is checked and shims are adjusted correct?
 
1.Kind of, but start with old pinion shim, measure and go from there. Diff ratio ring gears, for same rear are not same thickness.

2. Kind of

3. Yes, In addition to pinion depth, there’s pinion preload, and back lash that range is set by manufacturer. In the end everything is in the wear pattern.
 
Generally, the pinion will be marked with a depth. Wherever the gears are made whether they’re factory or aftermarket, they get run together as a set in a standardized fixture. That is how the depth is originally determined.

When setting pinion depth in your individual case, the given number is what you need to try and duplicate. The tool is what you need to verify that measurement within a particular housing.

Any gear manufacturers’ meshing fixture is not going to be the exact same depth as your housing, no way, no how. That’s why you need the shims so you can get as close to the scribed number on the pinion as possible for optimum gear mesh.

Again, the tool does not ‘set’ pinion depth, it verifies it. That’s why it’s best to have the right tool. Unless you can engineer something that will provide a repeatable, precise point of measurement every time you need to change shims, you’d be chasing your tail. There are too many variables to contend with to do this any other way.
 
Listen, you can do this however you choose. Post these backyard videos and what not, makes no difference to me. My particular method is how I learned to do this and how I would choose to do it. It’s an involved procedure and anything you can do to make it go smoothly is beneficial. However you arrive at proper gear mesh is up to you. If you don’t have the tools and don’t want to buy them then I guess the videos could be helpful.
 
Listen, you can do this however you choose. Post these backyard videos and what not, makes no difference to me. My particular method is how I learned to do this and how I would choose to do it. It’s an involved procedure and anything you can do to make it go smoothly is beneficial. However you arrive at proper gear mesh is up to you. If you don’t have the tools and don’t want to buy them then I guess the videos could be helpful.


I wasn’t endorsing the latter, just posted as a contrast. First one is great IMHO.
 
Saw this handy bracket made of 3 pieces of angle iron. Mounts to engine stand to secure the housing.

On Scott’s Speed Shop channel

Second pic a little dark but that it bolted up


View attachment 1061490 View attachment 1061491

Lol, like this............
upload_2021-2-1_8-31-14.png



OP,
Not sure that this R&P setting tool actually sold or it was closed over time. If by chance you want to go by the FSM procedure, you might try to contact the seller..........
SOLD - Miller C-758 Axle set-up tool | For B Bodies Only Classic Mopar Forum
 
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