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ROTISSERIE anyone have one or make thier own ? i need measurements

rav440

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did any of you guys make your own rotisserie for your car ? i need dimensions / plans . i want to make my own . im not sure ill be able to clear my garage dooor & opener to spin the car so ill most likely have to wheen it out side to spin it .



if you could please post pics and measurements of your home made or store bought rotisserie i would very much appreciate it



thanks RANDY
 
Here's my purchased one. I'm six feet tall so that might give you some perspective.

I'll try to get some basic measurements for you in a few days.

68RRtop1dis.jpg


TurningRRrear.JPG
 
We had ours built by a local guy. Could have been built a little stronger, but it works.

IMG_0784.jpg


IMG_0786 copy.JPG
 
Meep Meep; Your Rotisserie will make your car top-heavy; big time! Good luck rotating that baby!
 
Meep Meep; Your Rotisserie will make your car top-heavy; big time! Good luck rotating that baby!


I was in adjustment mode in this pic, plus the suspension was still in it. Now that it's stripped to the bare body I can flip it over no problem.
 
Im marking this to check out myself. I have wanted to make a body stand and thought about buying a rotisserie. I may look to make one now. Good post Meep-Meep.

Tell me is it cheaper to build one then it is to buy?
 
thanks guys . alleyoopmgv could you post a pic of the mounting point on the body please .

thanks RANDY

Randy, I guess I don't know what you mean by the mounting point? Do you mean where it attaches to the car?

In the front of the car, the bolts go to where the bumper would bolt to the car, and in the rear, bolts go through where the rear bumper would bolt to the car. We had to weld up our own brackets to bolt to the car.

I'll see if I have some more close up picture's.
 
The guy doing my car said, he was going to sell his after my car is finished. maybe cheaper to buy if he will sell it right.
 
I have been thinking to do one also. Sence steel is quite pricy ja time is money so my plan is simply buy two heavy duty engine stands (example allstar perf. #ALL10176 $88.99 pcs.) and modifyed them a bit. Have to chance upright tube longer and brace it, maeby a telescope inner tube if you want it higher, them built the bodyhangers where normally engine would be bolted. Then make a connection tube between stands and you are done.

My calculation is that its cheper to by the stands and modify tham than start built from scratch. Cos this way dont need to machinied anything, just tube inside a tube, cut , drill a couple of bolt holes and weld. Machining with lathe takes lot of time to do right, find the materials. Wheels comes with it so dont need to buy them.

I calculate that my hour cost something so I cant built it for two weeks. Its cheaper to cut corners like this.

Thanks, Juhani
 
My rotisserie is based on a design similiar to the one sited by generaljmwlee with these execeptions: the horizontal members at the bottom that the wheels attach to are 3 inches, the attachment points to the car are 3/8 plate with drilled holes, 3/4 bolts are used through out. You can rotate the car with one hand without any fear of it going all the way over and you can push it on gravel by yourself with 6 inch soild tires. When not in use it breaks down into a small pile that can be easily hauled in a pickup. It also works on brand X vehicles such as a boss mustang with the addition of 2 holes. I have built three of this design and find it simple and very functional. Wayne
 
I drew mine out, but, since have modified it heavily three times since building it in 2000. Today, it's a valuable tool to me, one I make lots of money from! My advice, buy the strongest steel you can, and draw it out, look at pics, and modify yours with all the benefits of the ones you saw; this is what I did!
 
The bill for my steel was $340 (not cut) add about $200 to that if you want everything cut and ready to build. You should not need to machine anything b/c 2.5" tube 1/4" wall fits inside 3" tube with 3/16" wall for the greased pivots.

I cut up an old golf cart (FREEBIE) for the wheels/tires/axles. This will get the rig from shop to blasting area outside. I'll post pics, but the idea is the front wheels will always turn/point parallel to a tow bar hitched to my ATV. The rear wheels area fixed axle, like a hay wagon setup.

There will be caster mounting plates too... for "improved surfaces"
 
I went from no adjustability in my rack to now it has wheels (hard casters), used to have inflatable (trashed 'em), post pics of how you are coming along.
 
These are the plans I'm working from:
The basic size is from Harwood's plans, but I changed a few things after looking at some other designs. It will come apart for storage or transport and has height adjustment.

RotissPlans.png
 
Last edited:
The bill for my steel was $340 (not cut) add about $200 to that if you want everything cut and ready to build. You should not need to machine anything b/c 2.5" tube 1/4" wall fits inside 3" tube with 3/16" wall for the greased pivots.

I cut up an old golf cart (FREEBIE) for the wheels/tires/axles. This will get the rig from shop to blasting area outside. I'll post pics, but the idea is the front wheels will always turn/point parallel to a tow bar hitched to my ATV. The rear wheels area fixed axle, like a hay wagon setup.

There will be caster mounting plates too... for "improved surfaces"

Skipped the caster plates
Pics with fabrication done:
100_1590.jpg


100_1592.jpg
 
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