Rust removal, better than evaporust and 10x cheaper..

[Rishi]

that leaves an odd color.. look pretty clean though

the sulfur helps in adding a layer that slows/prevents future oxidation... for a time. A molasses solution works well, and it's slow, giving one plenty of time to see the result and stop the process when they're ready. And similar to the citric acid formula, there is minimal reaction to the bare (un-rusted) metal so leaving it in solution longer than needed has fewer downsides.

A plus for the molasses is if you have a still, you can ferment the remaining solution and recover a refreshing beverage.

 

[old guys rule]

OHHH fair warning! If you do 5 gallons of it, the reaction is a bit.. intense... i spent 30 minutes mopping my garage.. foam all over.. add the chemicals in small batches, let it form then settle.. then add more.. i dumped it all in and it looked like a kids science fair volcano

Always add the acid to a base never the other way around.

 

[440 4 speed]

the sulfur helps in adding a layer that slows/prevents future oxidation... for a time. A molasses solution works well, and it's slow, giving one plenty of time to see the result and stop the process when they're ready. And similar to the citric acid formula, there is minimal reaction to the bare (un-rusted) metal so leaving it in solution longer than needed has fewer downsides.

A plus for the molasses is if you have a still, you can ferment the remaining solution and recover a refreshing beverage.

Is this new molasses or older, that would have iron in it that we need. Medicinal!!!

 

[Rishi]

Is this new molasses or older, that would have iron in it that we need. Medicinal!!!

Ha, good point, but I don't think distillation will grab the iron oxide from solution. bummer, actually. I'd love to say to my wife, I need to take my iron supplement, and then throw back a shot of moonshine from the freezer.

For the record, I DO NOT recommend distilling and drinking for human consumption, any fermentation that contains petroleum products. Even E100 fuel. The hydrocarbons from the engine oil, grease, and road grime on the surface of the rusted parts will skitter about in the molasses solution, and indeed make it into the distilled alcohol. Especially benzene.

 

[6872n73]

Ok I finally bought some cement prep and pulled the parts out of the molasses.

 

[icetech]

Ok I finally bought some cement prep and pulled the parts out of the molasses.

View attachment 1928971

View attachment 1928972

View attachment 1928974

View attachment 1928974

Will whatever is on them wash off easy?

 

[6872n73]

Will whatever is on them wash off easy?

Yes this is after washing off with the garden hose and that's it....I noticed that's it wasn't as grey as it was 2 weeks ago but still rust free.

 

[6872n73]

Concrete prep

And pads.

 

[6872n73]

I poured the prep into a bucket and put the small parts in and started wiping down the parts with the pads soaked in the prep.

 

[6872n73]

It started washing off the surface rust in seconds and wiping it again just made the surface cleaner. It has a smell that reminds me of working on sewer pipes..... Combine that with the smell of molasses....yum.

I missed a couple of spots as you can see..

After a few hours it left a tacky like coating on the surface because I forgot to rinse.

Rinced and dried and now it's a nice surface.

Next time I will take more time to clean the part of all grease and oil before starting the molasses soak and do a better job of cleaning the molasses after the soak,I might get a spray bottle to apply the cement prep or acid to see if I get better/easier coverage.

Overall very pleased with the outcome vs effort.

 

[icetech]

I poured the prep into a bucket and put the small parts in and started wiping down the parts with the pads soaked in the prep.

View attachment 1928980

View attachment 1928987

View attachment 1928989

Looks good.. just fyi.. if you make up a tub of the mix in the first post they will come out that clean and just need a hosing off after, no concrete prep or much cleaning at all.. nice to see results though..

 

[Rishi]

Concrete prep

View attachment 1928979

And pads.

The concrete prep is decent stuff. Not unlike Navel Jelly and many other rust-acting products. It can still attack the good metal, but it does a great job at removing rust. The white-ish residue it leaves behind is a phosphate coating, that resists rust until you treat/coat the metal.

I prefer the citric acid formula because it's cheap, effective and reusable, and when leaving the product soaking for extended periods, it tends not to attack the good metal. It even preserves the patina, when present.

But that said, I may follow up with the more common phosphate product that leaves the coating allowing some shelf life before rust sets in anew.

 

[Rishi]

after posting, I remembered I recently treated this battery hold-down bracket from my wife's Chrysler Pacifica. After soaking overnight, I rinsed it under a faucet. But it sat a few days on the bench. I just snapped the after pictures.

Another factor about the citric acid formula, is it seems gentle enough to leave behind residual paint and zinc plating. Granted, the citric acid formula seems weaker, maybe 10% composition in solution, compared to 10-30% phosphoric acid in Metal Prep/Naval Jelly.

 

[Photon440]

Since reading this thread, I've started my own citric acid soaking tank. I drained out the molasses and used this instead. So far, pretty happy with the results. And no mold growing on top like I used to get with molasses.