Sanding DTM primer

[BAFRAID]

Hey, sanding my direct to metal primer and getting ready to paint. I have a few areas where I sanded through. Can I paint directly over these areas or do I need to cover the burn through areas again? Also I’ve heard some people say it’s OK to paint directly over DTM primer and I’ve heard others say I should put down a primer sealer. Just wondering what some of the input would be from you guys. I’m using a basecoat clearcoat system for paint.

also, my primer feels extremely smooth currently. However I still do have some of these glossy freckle marks in it. It feels smooth to the touch. Do I have to continue sanding to get rid of all of these little freckle marks? Or will my paint and gloss fill them in?

thank you!!

 

[jamie]

Definitely seal the car before paint.

 

[dodgedifferent2]

Hey I am playing with Sandy as well.

I am also curious on your question too.

 

[Master Gunner]

Bare steel needs to be covered with an etch primer, and then do a seal coat. RTS primer is not catalyzed, and can "lift" or "craze", applying a seal coat is a good idea, and you can match the shade of primer to the top coat for the best results.

 

[MoparKel]

When you seal the car you will ensure even color coverage when you apply your base coat. It makes for a better paint job with no odd bleed through spots.
IMHO

 

[zyzzyx]

DTM primer is exactly what it says. Apply directly to bare metal. after that, you need three coats of
2k primer. You block the primer to make the panel flat or less wavy with a block and 120 grit paper.
Now you put one more coat of 2k primer on and wet sand it with a rubber block (not your fingers)
with 400, wet for solid colors or 600, wet for mettalic. Everyone puts a sealer on before painting
so nothing comes througgh from underneath and blemishes the paint.

 

[Builderguy]

Just like zyzzyx states above but with a personnel preference of one less coat of 2K at the start and I use 600 grit for everything. It can "feel smooth to the touch" but your paint will show numerous scratch marks. The sealer coat helps take care of that along with at least 2 coats of base, then 2 coats of CC (3-4 if you are going to do much color sanding). Just remember that if you are not in a booth, every coat of clear is one more chance for dust and other junk to get onto your project. Best of luck and use the seal coat, cheap insurance.

 

[BAFRAID]

DTM primer is exactly what it says. Apply directly to bare metal. after that, you need three coats of
2k primer. You block the primer to make the panel flat or less wavy with a block and 120 grit paper.
Now you put one more coat of 2k primer on and wet sand it with a rubber block (not your fingers)
with 400, wet for solid colors or 600, wet for mettalic. Everyone puts a sealer on before painting
so nothing comes througgh from underneath and blemishes the paint.

So to clarify DTM and then three coats of 2K primer. Sand that and then put another coat of 2K primer on and then send that and then put the sealer on right before paint

 

[Master Gunner]

DTM primer is not my favorite primer to use, epoxy or etch primer would be the first coat, followed by 2-3 medium wet coats of 2K primer surfacer. Block it out to see if another coat or 2 is needed, block again. wiped down with wax and grease remover, spray with 2K primer sealer. You are now on the clock if you are top coating. Most sealers want to be top coated within 24 hrs, if you go outside this window you need to scuff and reseal.

 

[zyzzyx]

Yes, that's the order. If the DTM primer has been on the car for more than a few
days, you'll need to DA or scuff the whole car so the 2k will bite into it. Then apply
the 2k primer and Block the car with a long block and 120 grit sticky backed paper.
3M sells it in rolls. when you think you have all of the waves out. put one coat of 2k
on the car and wet sand it with 400/600. clean the car off, put it in the booth/garage,
and apply the sealer and then the color. The first coat of color will tell you alot about
how good of a job you did on the prep! Send pic's!

 

[747mopar]

I'd share my thoughts but Zyzzyx pretty much covered it.

 

[zyzzyx]

Just to help you out, here are some pic's after wet sanding with 400 after all of the
blocking is done. You wet the panel with water with a little dish soap in it and you can "SEE"
the panel and how flat it is in the sunlight. Hope this helps!

 

[Canadian1968]

To each their own.
DTM 2k primer does not need another 2k primer on top of it.

The small spots you have do need to be reprimed. Or if you are sealing the car with wet on wet process you could etch wipe the bare metal and then just seal .

I am surprises how many people insist on doing wet on wet process .

 

[BAFRAID]

I just called my paint supplier and asked about 2K primer. The primer I purchased that is the DTM is called vibrance. It’s a higher end direct to metal primer. The guy at the paint store said this specific primer does not require 2K primer. He said this specific primer does everything that the 2K with you. It can be block sanded and then he said if I choose I can put a sealer over it however this primer specifically works as a sealer as well.

 

[Builderguy]

The 2K primer I/we are talking about is a high build primer. In fairness I guess you could use DTM 1300 high build primer coat after coat but at $50 a gallon I am not so sure about the quality of the product. Regardless, you will need at least 2 coats of high build as you will block most of that off using 120 grit to get the panels straight. The OP has not gotten to this stage yet. The follow up coat of 2K high build is put on to give you a final coat to sand with 400/600 grit to give some tooth for the seal coat to "grab". The seal coat will make everything the same base color, help prevent bleed thru, and provide a mechanical bond with the base coat if done within the window. The PPG sealer I use has a 72 hour window. As for one of your earlier questions, the "little freckle marks" need to disappear.

 

[Builderguy]

I believe you are using PPG VP2050, which is a 2k high build primer. Like your supplier said, you can use this as your high build primer (to sand the body straight) and then as a sealer with a 4 day window. Just remember that when using it as a sealer to make an even coat over all your bodywork. I would not argue with the PPG tech sheet, but I prefer a sealer that has only one purpose in life, sealing. Just feel more comfortable with that. Anyway, best of luck on your project and as others have said, please show some pictures when you finish.

 

[BAFRAID]

The 2K primer I/we are talking about is a high build primer. In fairness I guess you could use DTM 1300 high build primer coat after coat but at $50 a gallon I am not so sure about the quality of the product. Regardless, you will need at least 2 coats of high build as you will block most of that off using 120 grit to get the panels straight. The OP has not gotten to this stage yet. The follow up coat of 2K high build is put on to give you a final coat to sand with 400/600 grit to give some tooth for the seal coat to "grab". The seal coat will make everything the same base color, help prevent bleed thru, and provide a mechanical bond with the base coat if done within the window. The PPG sealer I use has a 72 hour window. As for one of your earlier questions, the "little freckle marks" need to disappear.

The vibrance direct to metal high build primer I’m using is closer to $300 a gallon. It’s called VP2050. This is definitely all new to me so I’m just showing you the product I’m using.

 

[BAFRAID]

I believe you are using PPG VP2050, which is a 2k high build primer. Like your supplier said, you can use this as your high build primer (to sand the body straight) and then as a sealer with a 4 day window. Just remember that when using it as a sealer to make an even coat over all your bodywork. I would not argue with the PPG tech sheet, but I prefer a sealer that has only one purpose in life, sealing. Just feel more comfortable with that. Anyway, best of luck on your project and as others have said, please show some pictures when you finish.

Thank you for the reply. This is definitely all new to me. You are correct about which type of primer it is. Here are a few pictures of my first two coats of primer

 

[dadsbee]

FYI.. my House of Kolors, AFTER build primer and blocking, was a HOK sealer coat, FOUR coats of color to get full coverage and then their Klear. One coat that was then infusion/sanded and then two more coats of Klear before cut and polish almost a year later.

 

[Builderguy]

SWEET, keep on trucking. Just watch your dry time as I think this primer takes about 24 hours before you can start sanding on it. You will know right away, as there should only be dust falling and no gumming of the sand paper. But you probably already know that.