• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Satellite won't warm start

levicah

Well-Known Member
Local time
9:16 PM
Joined
Mar 16, 2018
Messages
104
Reaction score
15
Location
Shelton, WA
My '74 plymouth Satellite will cold start fine, but if the car has been running for +15 minutes, it wont start back up after sitting for about 10 minutes (it cranks but won't run).

The car has a 318 engine and a 727 tranny. I replaced the distributor cap, rotor and coil.

It can't be vapor lock, since I've watched gas freely move into the carb, and the fuel filter is filled when I step on the throttle. This only became an issue after I put a new rotor into the distributor (something broke or came loose inside the distributor?). So, assuming it's a spark issue, should I buy a new distributor or ignition system?

If that's not the case, why won't the car warm start?

IMG_2528.JPG


Here's a visual of what I've got going here (side view from passenger door)
 
Sounds like your losing some spark from the new parts. Have you checked the timing and are you positive fuel is spraying down the carb throat ? Heat soak is a HUGE issue with the ethanol in the fuels. I just looked at the pic, and see the clear filter. You're getting fuel to the carb but when it sets it's possible the fuel in the car has boiled out.
 
Sounds like your losing some spark from the new parts. Have you checked the timing and are you positive fuel is spraying down the carb throat ? Heat soak is a HUGE issue with the ethanol in the fuels. I just looked at the pic, and see the clear filter. You're getting fuel to the carb but when it sits it's possible the fuel in the car has boiled out.
 
I had a problem similar to what your going through. I found out the breaker plate on the electronic distributor was moving around. I took out Distributor and found little triangle clip holding the plate was missing. I actually replaced distributor, all better now. You never know what the problem is till you go over everything with a fine tooth comb.
 
easy way to tell if the fuel is evaporating from the carb. run the vehicle for your 15 min and park it. wait the time you normally would when you have the problem. pull the air filter(not before this point) and actuate throttle. see if squirter runs out of fuel, if so,that is your problem. do it about 2 or 3 times to check. may have 1 squirt in accelerator pump.
 
I would suggest installing a phenolic spacer between carb & intake. Relatively cheap...Jegs or Summit Racing. They sell 1/4", 1/2", 1" thickness. Easy & quick to install/ uninstall. I have one on my current car and have had no starting problems when hot.
 
Thanks for the replies guys, i'm positive vapor lock isn't the main issue at hand, so i'll go get a new distributor and some spark plug wires. I'll also adjust the timing as well.
 
We arent talking vapor lock-when the liquid turns into vapor in the fuel line.
We are talking about the fuel evaporating in the carb. There is fuel in the line but the carb is dry.
Perform the test posted before throwing parts at it.
 
The fuel today is oxygenated ethanol treated. I had this problem. It was the fuel was not heavy enough to close the needle and seat when the carb is warm. new fuel injected cars to not have this problem. Your car may be flooding. But you will have to diagnose it. Check for spark

All newer carbureted cars have a fuel return. There is a special filter that installs before the mecanical fuel pump. That means the fuel is not dead ended at the carb. I put a fuel return on my car and this problem was gone.
A weaker spark from your recent tune up with cheap could magnify this problem.

Here are before and after pictures of what I did. I put a pressure regulator after the carb then ran the line back to the tank. You can do this with your vent line if you have one and install a vent on the fuel fill tube. Use the three leg filter.

I had an electric pump so I needed a regulator.


They have return regulators they are different than supply regulators.

Check for spark before you retune it.

DSCF0171.JPG Steve 098.JPG Steve 107.JPG
 
The fuel today is oxygenated ethanol treated. I had this problem. It was the fuel was not heavy enough to close the needle and seat when the carb is warm. new fuel injected cars to not have this problem. Your car may be flooding. But you will have to diagnose it. Check for spark

All newer carbureted cars have a fuel return. There is a special filter that installs before the mecanical fuel pump. That means the fuel is not dead ended at the carb. I put a fuel return on my car and this problem was gone.
A weaker spark from your recent tune up with cheap could magnify this problem.

Here are before and after pictures of what I did. I put a pressure regulator after the carb then ran the line back to the tank. You can do this with your vent line if you have one and install a vent on the fuel fill tube. Use the three leg filter.

I had an electric pump so I needed a regulator.


They have return regulators they are different than supply regulators.

Check for spark before you retune it.

View attachment 640047 View attachment 640048 View attachment 640049
That looks like a running son of a gun man
 
Remember the saying,( Test Don't Guess )
Don't through parts at it,that can be very costly.
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top