Did a little sanding tonight to see what it looks like underneath the orange of doom. I don’t think it looks bad yet but I am new to the body stuff. Normally I wrote checks for all metal work. Need to get some better eye and lung protection.
Saveable?
- Thread starter bgmiller
- Start date
Sanding may remove some of the good metal in the process.
Did you take the advice and buy Evaporust or CLR ?
Did you take the advice and buy Evaporust or CLR ?
I have "restored" trunk floors that had pitting like yours by treating the metal with either Rust Mort or Evaporust, then high build primer. That gets sanded then primed again. You can still see a little texture but it is better than when I started.
I think you have a solid game plan. Sometimes rusty water can dry elsewhere and look worse than it really is. Did the wire brush reveal any holes?
Forget the wife. Do what YOU want. If she gets on board, she is a keeper. If she ******* and complains, tell her to deal with it because THIS is who you are.
No holes yet, the rust came off pretty quick that whole area was less than 10 mins with the wire wheel.
She is on onboard and has been around 25 years with 20 of those following me around in the military (cheaper to keep her). I think she is more shocked by the cost of Mopar compared to GM
Oh yeah, it is a kick to the crotch compared to restoring a Chevelle.
A bit late, vinegar also works on rust removal. First time I forgot to neutralize the vinegar though.
I've read that too but have not looked into it beyond reading about it online. Molasses has been mentioned too.
I'd be interested in looking into the cheaper methods. I spent over $100 for a 5 gallon bucket of Evaporust last year. If I can get similar results for a fraction of the price, I'd like that. I like to reuse factory hardware on my projects and many times, the chemical stuff restores the natural finish that I like.
I'd be interested in looking into the cheaper methods. I spent over $100 for a 5 gallon bucket of Evaporust last year. If I can get similar results for a fraction of the price, I'd like that. I like to reuse factory hardware on my projects and many times, the chemical stuff restores the natural finish that I like.
Vinegar at 2.29 Canadian for 4 litres (about 1 US gallon ) is fairly inexpensive.
At a minimum, use Corroseal like Coelacanth mentioned. It is a converter and can be painted over.
For what it's worth, I used Rust Bullet on my inner doors, inside the cowl and places I couldn't reach and there is zero issue with any of those spots rusting through. I used Corroseal on rusty pieces like bumper brackets, exterior parts and they still look new after 9 years.
For what it's worth, I used Rust Bullet on my inner doors, inside the cowl and places I couldn't reach and there is zero issue with any of those spots rusting through. I used Corroseal on rusty pieces like bumper brackets, exterior parts and they still look new after 9 years.
jdsgtx
Well-Known Member
I’d clean it up, then if places need patchwork, do it then seal the entire thing
cudamark
Well-Known Member
Plain white vinegar is the cheapest for rust removal. Lemon juice works a bit better/quicker, but, more expensive. The industrial (30%?) vinegar really works fast, but, at a much higher cost than the previous two. Neutralize with baking soda and distilled water and prime as soon as it dries.
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