SCE Gasket rear main seal

[roadrunnerh]

I received this for my 383 today. Does this seem right, from what you can tell from the photos? I installed one half of the seal in the cap, and it doesn't quite seem right. I can easily press down on the seal surface where it would contact the crank, and it appears as if I install this, the crank is going to rub on this cap! Please help with your experience, I appreciate it!

 

[Lefty71]

I've never known a hemi to have a different bridge, but their catalog listing for that one is race hemi only. The others, hemi and B-RB is cat. # 16405.

Also, maybe Im too tired, but doesnt the seal go in the other way???

 

[roadrunnerh]

I F'ed up. I assumed since everywhere else, it seems, the 383/440/426 have the same seal journal size.

 

[Lefty71]

I assumed since everywhere else, it seems, the 383/440/426 have the same seal journal size.

Hopefully a parts guru will come a long and show us a pic of a race hemi bridge.

 

[khryslerkid]

Might find what you want in one of the sites "stickies"

https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/mopa...ial-rear-main-seal-replacement-thread.175771/

 

[beanhead]

Oops yeah you got the 'race' hemi part. The seal should never sit that deep in the retainer. Hey aren't you glad you caught it before putting the engine back in! Happy days!

 

[roadrunnerh]

Oops yeah you got the 'race' hemi part. The seal should never sit that deep in the retainer. Hey aren't you glad you caught it before putting the engine back in! Happy days!

You got that right brother!

 

[roadrunnerh]

Thanks Khryslerkid for the link to the sticky. That thread along with the one on Chargers web board linked to that sticky help, although inconsistency exists. I have the Vitron seal on the way, and I'll be using the side seals from the incorrect race HEMI seal I ordered. Funny thing, Summit sells the Vitron seal, but only the two halves - not the silicone side seals... Geeze.

 

[beanhead]

Yes as you're finding out, everyone does it little different... as long as it works that's the main thing. I opted for filling the side grooves with ultra-gray and then a light smear on the flat surfaces. Just has to be allowed to cure some before final torquing, but 1000 miles in it's still dry... And if I could offer one bit of advice, and I apologize if you already know this, but stand/hang the engine nose up once it's done and the pan's on and you put oil in it. Let oil completely cover that seal for a bit. If it leaks, you'll know and you'll be able to fix it before engine goes in. As much as it sucks to tear your pan back off and redo it, much better than having to take the engine back out or attempt it under the car.

 

[roadrunnerh]

Thanks beanhead! No apology needed. I was wondering about doing just that - lifting the front of the motor once I have a pan and oil in it, and let it sit for a day or two.

 

[roadrunnerh]

I purchased and checked out these three main seals:
SCE 26605
Fel-Pro 2947
Fel-Pro BS 40240
Are identical dimensionally.
BS 40240 is a black rubber, the other two the fancy Viton.
The first photo is CORRECT. I am amazed at the depth of the seal. Tight tolerances.
Due to my inexperience, I needed to examine all three. I ended up in stalling the Fel-Pro 2947, and since it didn't come with the side seals, I used the blue side seals from the Fel-Pro BS 40240.
Also, I returned the SCE 26605, but it was not a race HEMI only seal - it would have worked just as well.
Like I've said before - This has been a cool journey so far - learning A LOT from rebuilding this 383!

 

[roadrunnerh]

Oh, and I followed the Hughes Engines directions I found on the Main Bearing sticky.

The Crankshaft is in...

Bonus image of my NB shoes!