Seeking Information: 1969 Roadrunner purchase

[Rapster]

Hey everyone, I'm new to the forum and joined up seeking information. I have been wanting to get into some sort of Mopar muscle for quite a while now and have come across a car that I am interested in, but would like to ask some of the experienced people on this forum about what to watch out for and look for when looking at buying a b-body. Specifically I have found a 1969 Plymouth Roadrunner, with a 383 and a 4-spd. I plan on phoning the guy tomorrow to ask some questions and hopefully grab the VIN number and see what kind of car I'm working with. From the pictures it looks to be in good shape (but as always, pictures don't always tell the full story). The engine bay looks clean (ie. taken care of) and so does the interior & exterior. But if I go to look at this car what are some of the things I should be looking for to make sure I'm not getting a pile of junk and to make sure it's an actual Road Runner? After getting some information on the phone, and if it sounds good, I plan on going and checking it out and getting it put on a lift to check out underneath, make sure everything looks solid and hasn't been hit. I'm not looking at getting this car to be a garage queen that's numbers matching and never gets taken out. I'm looking at it as something to drive and enjoy, take to cruise nights and car shows for fun. If this car is in decent condition, numbers matching 383, 4spd, bench seat car what would be a ball park number for price? My main issue is all the ones I find online need restoration and are cheap, or are on the high end of the scale wanting large amounts of money. This one seems to be priced well for what it is, but since I cannot compare with anything else online or local I can't know for sure if the price he's asking is decent. Thanks in advance for any responses!

 

[b-star69]

welcome to fbbo,the vin should read RM for road runner 21for sedan (post)23 for coupe(hardtop)H for 383-4bbl and 9 for 1969 ie (RM23H9G100001) watch for rust in rear 1/4 panels, around rear window, floors, and trunk. GOOD LUCK look forward to the picts

 

[Rapster]

Thanks for the response. I'll be sure to update with information and photos if this car is worth going after.

 

[1970beep]

Also do not worry about numbers matching engine with the car as a 69 RR with a 383 is not rare enough to stop you from enjoying it just as much as a numbers matching car. If they do match then great, but just saying.
Also be sure the car has all of its trim pieces as they are not always easy to find.
Have a blast and hope it works out for you.
John

 

[Canadian1968CoronetR/T]

Welcome, I just got into this hobby last October, Travelled far and was dissapointed a lot, pic always look good but seeing the car hands on, is the only way to go, I was ready to give up the chase, and even after I bought one close to home there is and will be always some thing to do to these cars.
I have been told to drive it and have fun first before sinking money into that is hard to get back when selling. So that is what I am trying to do this summer.
Where in Ontario are you?

 

[MoparBill]

Look for the fender tag- it should be on the inner fender near the battery. It has codes which will tell you how the car was built; color, options, etc. The VIN# is on the tag and should match the VIN on the dash, as well as on the core support and trunk gutter. This will definitely help you spot a clone, and see how close to original the car is. There are fender tag decoders online, just google it!

 

[Meep-Meep]

All the above plus I'll ad some info.

If the car is on the high end of the price spectrum - meaning numbers matching, never rusted out, original sheet metal, and generally well kept, this is the best you can hope for. Cars looking the part with nice paint but nearly half reproduction sheet metal are not top dollar cars in my opinion. May not matter so much on a non hemi or six pack car but I certainly wouldn't pay the price for something that was reconstructed by who knows who even if it was done well. So take that into account when making an offer. Obviously non original drive train and any work needed will further reduce the final price. Be sharp and well informed before the inspection.


*Look for VIN on rad support to see if it matches and also left side trunk lip near hinge.
*Seems that 90% of that body style has had lower back window corner rust or a repair of some sort.
*More options on the fender tag the better in my opinion - just makes a RR stand out that much more.
*Make sure it's a real 4 spd car.