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Shop floor coatings/treatments?

I was warned on mine not to weld or use cutting torches. They also told me it had a 13,000 PSI rating vs 4K on the concrete. I have yet to chip it. Scratched it a lot, but it is a floor not the hood of my GTX.

What is amazing is how much cleaner the whole shop is because I can clean up the floor completely. Sweeping is so much more easier and complete. If you wash, everything comes up. And the best parts is that because the water doesn't get absorbed, drying time is short. When I first put the floor down I washed the floor a couple of times. It took days for the concrete to dry. You'd walk in the next day and you could just smell that the concrete was damp. I like to keep a clean and dry garage for all the metal stored, so that was a big factor for me. Now I can back in a truck loaded with snow and salt all packed up underneath and goes right down the drain. The next day, floor is dry as a bone.

It was big money, but I don't regret it at all.
 
my experience is on the other extreme end. I had mine done professionally. It took a crew of 3-7 people at least four days. Not cheap and i wouldn't recommend it to everyone.

First they shot blasted the cement. Fixed some imperfections. The first coat was called an epoxy mortar. I remember it was a full pallet of just that. Before that dried, 4500 lbs. Of sand was broad cast on and into the mixture. The next day, they swept and vacuumed the sand that didn't adhere to the wet coat. Then a layer of epoxy. The final day was a layer of something called poly aspartic (sp?). The whole thing is about a 1/4 inch thick.

I do love it, cleans up very easy. Most of my vehicles leak something, so it's really convenient to just wipe up a stain. I've spilled (well, not me, but a friend) at least 10 gallons of waste oil on it once. A squeegee and dust pan picks up almost everything, then a rag or two finishes it up.

The only thing i'm not too sure how to fix if i even do at all are scratches. Touch ups or recoats i think are going to be a process that i can't do myself.

If you use a system that you can do yourself, then that is not a problem.

Here are a few pics:

nice!!!!
 
Like 65 Hemi, I used the Rustoleum epoxy floor paint. To be fair, my concrete was 12 years old when I did this. I cleaned the floor very well, then pressure sprayed it twice. After that I used the citric acid in the kit. When that was cleaned off it was time to roll the epoxy. It looked great when it was done but 2 years later some areas started to flake off. It seems to be the areas where salt from our cars falls off. Something to think about living in Minnesota; but with fresh concrete you may have better results.
 
The scope of my shop project is financially overwhelming as I'm starting from scratch. The slab, the building, insulate and finish the inside, wire it, water supply, sewer system, then the shop equipment and spray booth, tools etc...

I'm going to have to do the floor coating myself. I'm familiar with the pro level job like ws27 explained. We had that done at work here in an area in 2006.

I'll be coating fresh concrete as soon as it is cured well enough to coat.

Really looking for the most industrial DIY process possible.
 
Dave- If you're doing it yourself, the 100% solids is the way to go especially on new concrete. It will have to cure for 30 days and then you have to acid etch it (wash it down with muriatic acid). But it is the most durable DIY coating you can get. Make sure you put a vapor barrier down before pouring the slab !!!! I sell it to many garages and factories. They love it.

The scope of my shop project is financially overwhelming as I'm starting from scratch. The slab, the building, insulate and finish the inside, wire it, water supply, sewer system, then the shop equipment and spray booth, tools etc...

I'm going to have to do the floor coating myself. I'm familiar with the pro level job like ws27 explained. We had that done at work here in an area in 2006.

I'll be coating fresh concrete as soon as it is cured well enough to coat.

Really looking for the most industrial DIY process possible.
 
Thanks.

Can you check the product link you posted earlier? I cant get it to work.
 
Does anybody have floor drains in their shops?
Seems like with this coating on there a floor drain would be the bee's knees.
 
I put several drains in mine and it's a good thing since my outside drains plugged this winter and would have flooded the garage had I not had several inside drains. Can't help on the coatings though, just good ol concrete for me although I'd like to do something down the road.
 
Mine does have floor drains. I had to put them in by law. I was not happy because the drains needed to be hooked up to a separator that was costly and time consuming. In the end I'm glad I was forced to put them in. There are only three 4" round drains located in the middle. The floor is pitched from the door to the inside Most go the other way and use a trough. I really didn't want a trough, I think the get ugly and would be in the way of creepers and the like. The only problem with small 4 inch drains is when I try to squeegee water into them. I look like an idiot chasing the water in circles around the drain.
 
I look like an idiot chasing the water in circles around the drain.

lol. Thanks for the visual. I can't say I never did that while working in a restaurant in high school. Maybe I'll invent a thing that has a backsplash and just drops into the drain.

^^ ignore said idea - patent pending
 
lol. Thanks for the visual. I can't say I never did that while working in a restaurant in high school. Maybe I'll invent a thing that has a backsplash and just drops into the drain.

^^ ignore said idea - patent pending
When you do, I want to be your first customer.
 
When you do, I want to be your first customer.

Post a few pics of your floor drains

I can use pictures form several people actually.

I can hit the drawing board tonight!
 
Wanted to see if there's been anything new for floor coatings since the last post was March 2004. Looking to do something on my new garage floor
 
I plan on polishing the concrete on mine when the time comes...Maybe a little more cost up front but basically never have to touch it up or worry about it coming off...:thumbsup:
 
I used a solvent based epoxy on mine once it had cured. Water based does not work very well. I do have weld spatter burns in areas, but oh well. One thing I did learn the hard way is that even though I had several containers of the color, which worked out great for doing 10x10 areas, is that the shades are different for each section I did. Put the color into one big container, mix well, then split it back to the smaller containers to ensure its all uniform colorless when you are done.
 
I just used concrete stain. Applied just like paint. Holds up pretty well. Not crazy expensive. So, when you do damage the finish, just touch it up. Don't have trouble with hot tires lifting the stain if it's cured.
 
I used a solvent based epoxy on mine once it had cured. Water based does not work very well. I do have weld spatter burns in areas, but oh well. One thing I did learn the hard way is that even though I had several containers of the color, which worked out great for doing 10x10 areas, is that the shades are different for each section I did. Put the color into one big container, mix well, then split it back to the smaller containers to ensure its all uniform colorless when you are done.

If this is a 2 component epoxy you are talking about, just box (mix all together) component A ( the part with color) before you add component B (the catalyst) or else you might not have enough time to apply it before it starts drying out. Some epoxies have a very short pot life (amount of time after mixing two components you have to apply it).
 
It was a two part. I made the *** umption all was kosher. When the floor is occupied with cars and equipment you don't notice it at much. Now I know better for the next time. At least its coated and cleans easy.
 
I apply assort weight oils and radiator fluids with regular reapplications ,with the occasionally trans fluid when it needs cleaning.
 
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