Thanks much!Call them - they will give you good guidance.
I personally like the use of a jig. I talked to them about that, and they said they just never used one, but if a straight crack could be beneficial. Lock n' Stitch uses a jig.
If you want a jig I would be happy to make one for you, just let me know.
They also said get as close to the freeze plug and stop - don't need to worry about the last little bit, just use sealer to keep from leaking.
Still got some clean up etc to do but crack repaired using Pioneer drill bit, tap, and plugs. Time consuming and wish the Lock n Stitch had been available but this worked well. I am confident of a permanent seal.Engine is out and as far as I know there were no previous leaks, but I did not drive it that much before beginning restoration. The engine was rebuilt before I got it and certainly seems to be in good condition otherwise.
Had not noticed this until I replaced freeze plugs, and after the plug was removed evidently it seemed to be obvious, or maybe got worse at that point. Engine had been painted previously so it was not noticeable. Noticed it right after I had installed the new freeze plug.
I really don’t want to get another block engine, etc as this is matching numbers and I have a good bit invested in it.
Competent advice from those of you with experience is very much appreciated.
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I did about half one day and the remainder the next. About an hour each time but I was taking my time and being methodical. The thing that was the most surprising was the ease the tapered tap bites into the block, so easy I was concerned it had stripped the threads but that was never the case.Looks good!!
Once you got set up and started in ………. How long did it take you?
Still got some clean up etc to do but crack repaired using Pioneer drill bit, tap, and plugs. Time consuming and wish the Lock n Stitch had been available but this worked well. I am confident of a permanent seal.
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I have a 1/2” hole in my block right up under the cylinder and I’ve taped the hole for 1/2” course thread. I’ll cut a chunk of cast iron off and old block then cut treads backward (so it tapers) on the piece to install. Then I’ll weld the whole area up (I bought the certanium 889 rods off eBay) I figured that way would be better than welding from the start.I did about half one day and the remainder the next. About an hour each time but I was taking my time and being methodical. The thing that was the most surprising was the ease the tapered tap bites into the block, so easy I was concerned it had stripped the threads but that was never the case.
All in all I am pleased with the results.