Siezed driveshaft bolt

[BeeKool]

Im parting out a Dakota 4×4.
The front driveshaft is presenting some problems. The bolts holding the caps on the double-knuckle at the transmission end are siezed. They are a 7 or 8 mm head and going to round off.

Clearance is an issue & only a open/box wrench will fit on bolt. Do I heat the knuckle w a torch or just say F-it and grind the head off the bolt.
I want to salvagw the driveshaft as this Tranny is going in a different truck.

 

[Don Frelier]

Torch and big vice grips then hit with a bf hammer.

 

[BeeKool]

Torch and big vice grips then hit with a bf hammer.

May come to that but big vg wont fit, clearance an issue.
Had to walk away for the night.

 

[69L48Z27]

Heat and lube.

 

[Ranger16]

A "blue tip" wrench can work wonders.

 

[flypaper]

penetrate soak and heat works wonders on rusty junk

 

[texas69bee]

Heat and candle wax

 

[beanhead]

Yeah what Fly said...soak it good with some penetrant and come back tomorrow...

 

[dadsbee]

Heat on the yoke and a 6 point box end.. or flex socket.

 

[Ironbuilt]

Heat until cherry red, and like @dadsbee said, use a 6 point to remove.

 

[BeeKool]

Put a 6pt 8mm socket on a 1/4" breaker.
Pound/shoehorn the setup onto the head of the bolt w the peen end of a small hammer..

Put some heat to the shaft side of the yolk and
It worked!
Getting the setup off after breaking it lose was a pia. Do this 4 times and success!

Took 2 hours to get the damned thing out.

 

[BeeKool]

The starter bolts are siezed to the BH.
Could I use heat on the aluminium BH?
I do not wish to damage tranny.

 

[Don Frelier]

One is a stud, they are likely stuck in the starter as much as the bell housing. That part of the housing is away from the internals and the aluminium will take heat away real quick. I think it would be okay.

 

[Fran Blacker]

The starter bolts are siezed to the BH.
Could I use heat on the aluminium BH?
I do not wish to damage tranny.

Don't get to happy with a torch.

 

[dadsbee]

Yah, it would be a plumbers torch for copper pipes at best... or you'll have a blob on your hands!

 

[BeeKool]

One is a stud, they are likely stuck in the starter as much as the bell housing. That part of the housing is away from the internals and the aluminium will take heat away real quick. I think it would be okay.

Top is within reach w a socket & extentions.
Ive tore the truck down to Radiator support.
The bottom bolt/nut is hidden behind the front axle. Can only be reached with a half moon wrench or a stubby.
Anyway I will use the blue wrench tomorrow on it.

 

[BeeKool]

Yah, it would be a plumbers torch for copper pipes at best... or you'll have a blob on your hands!

Ill keep her low.

 

[BeeKool]

After removing the rad, ac condenser, grill, bumber and everything else down to the radiator support..

I was able to get a 1/2" drive socket w 3 feet of extensions and a large BB. The top came loose.
The bottom stud required a 3/8" in drive socket with a swivel and 3' of extensions fed thru the wheel well adapted to a 1/2" drive BB.. and....

success!
This Dakota starter has the terminal relocator kit, kinda neat. Im goung to try and salvage it and use it on my Coronet..

Im a ways from that though.
The main point of parting this truck out is to get the tranny and put it in one of my other 'kotas.

Several times in the last week Ive wished that I had a nice complete set of flex-sockets.

https://www.amazon.com/Craftsman-Pc...ocphy=9017766&hvtargid=pla-592239917417&psc=1

I dont normally buy new craftsman tools but these look nice and if I were to get a similar set in SnapOn or SK it would probably cost at least twice