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Snap ring green bearings required for Wilwood rear axle disc brakes...

khryslerkid said:
The snap ring keeps the bearing from going back into the housing. The outer part of the bearing is held in place by the backing plate just like the taypered bearing and holds the axle from coming out.
Click to expand...
Perhaps, one additional consideration should be added to your comment: ... "just like the taypered bearing and holds the axle from coming out"....subject to the axial and radial load capabilities of the bearing....
I'm not debating the reason for the substitution, apparently based on the inclusion of Willwood or equal rear caliper hardware, which requires the substitution, but on the MO400 bearing's longterm (L10 life) capabilities at imposed loads. I guess I'll just have to purchase one to obtain the manufacture's real part number to determine dimensions and loads...out of curiosity....just my opinion of course.
BOB RENTON
 
biomedtechguy said:
If I can help, tell me where to look.
Click to expand...
Different manufacturer mark their product differently. Some etch the part number on the OD face of the outer race, some use the OD face of the inner race but this is a very narrow area, some emboss the bearing's seal or shield faces, if used, with the part number. FOR example, on a small diameter single row ball bearing, like 6203 RSS, but it depends on the type of bearing (double row ball bearing, duplex angular contact bearings, spherical roller, straight roller, tapered adapter mount style, expansion or non expansion, literally hundred different styles and types). A sealing O-ring groove and or snap ring groove types will have the particular feature in the basic part number.
Look at www.ntnbower.com or SKF, or Timken
to get some idea of the complexity of making a determination.
BOB RENTON
 
RJRENTON said:
Different manufacturer mark their product differently. Some etch the part number on the OD face of the outer race, some use the OD face of the inner race but this is a very narrow area, some emboss the bearing's seal or shield faces, if used, with the part number. FOR example, on a small diameter single row ball bearing, like 6203 RSS, but it depends on the type of bearing (double row ball bearing, duplex angular contact bearings, spherical roller, straight roller, tapered adapter mount style, expansion or non expansion, literally hundred different styles and types). A sealing O-ring groove and or snap ring groove types will have the particular feature in the basic part number.
Look at www.ntnbower.com or SKF, or Timken
to get some idea of the complexity of making a determination.
BOB RENTON
Click to expand...
As far as I know, there's only one type of bearing that will work in this situation without making a design change to the rear end housing but that isn't the question here. There are rear ends from other manufacturers that work with rear disc brakes using the straight roller bearing (so I'm told.....right or wrong?) that do take high radial loads (more than a ball) but still lack in the axial department somewhat but.....as far as I know....they all are C-clip rears and 'mom' didn't make any differentials that will fit into or work in the 8 3/4 or 60 rears. If a ball can't take axial loads very well, how does the straight roller last so long? No answer needed as this might show up in a new thread.
 
Cranky said:
As far as I know, there's only one type of bearing that will work in this situation without making a design change to the rear end housing but that isn't the question here. There are rear ends from other manufacturers that work with rear disc brakes using the straight roller bearing (so I'm told.....right or wrong?) that do take high radial loads (more than a ball) but still lack in the axial department somewhat but.....as far as I know....they all are C-clip rears and 'mom' didn't make any differentials that will fit into or work in the 8 3/4 or 60 rears. If a ball can't take axial loads very well, how does the straight roller last so long? No answer needed as this might show up in a new thread.
Click to expand...
FYI....
I refer you to the www.ntnbower.com web site. With regard to ball and roller bearings, its very informative as to the various differences and similarities between the various different styles and types of bearings as well as design criteria and the nomenclature that describes each style. The site gives examples of the various combinations and applications. Its worth a quick look....
BOB RENTON
 
RJRENTON said:
FYI....
I refer you to the www.ntnbower.com web site. With regard to ball and roller bearings, its very informative as to the various differences and similarities between the various different styles and types of bearings as well as design criteria and the nomenclature that describes each style. The site gives examples of the various combinations and applications. Its worth a quick look....
BOB RENTON
Click to expand...
I've worked with bearings for many years in the petrochem industry.....not saying I don't need to look at it but I'm not totally oblivious to it as we had all that info at work.
 
:popcorn:
RJRENTON said:
FYI....
I refer you to the www.ntnbower.com web site. With regard to ball and roller bearings, its very informative as to the various differences and similarities between the various different styles and types of bearings as well as design criteria and the nomenclature that describes each style. The site gives examples of the various combinations and applications. Its worth a quick look....
BOB RENTON
Click to expand...
Cranky said:
I've worked with bearings for many years in the petrochem industry.....not saying I don't need to look at it but I'm not totally oblivious to it as we had all that info at work.
Click to expand...
 
khryslerkid said:
The snap ring keeps the bearing from going back into the housing. The outer part of the bearing is held in place by the backing plate just like the taypered bearing and holds the axle from coming out.
Click to expand...

Here’s a Dana 60 with Green bearings that looks like the axle flange is up against the snap ring and around the bearing. Can you see it?

0A8E7481-7D4D-4123-B880-C19F2502235D.jpeg
 
Did that retainer come with the bearings? Last one I did had a relief for the snap ring.....
 
RJRENTON said:
Great looking installation including the brake shoes. Out of curiosity, what size shoes are they? 11"x 2-1/2" or 10" x 2" and the brand and source....
BOB RENTON
Click to expand...

Thank you Sir.

They're 10" x 2-1/2", bought them from NAPA and went through several sets before I got a matched set. They had the wrong linings on the wrong shoes, wrong shoes as far as hole orientation ect. Even had a set that had a cracked lining installed. Not obtainable as easy as back in the day for sure. The counter person was very helpful getting me what I needed to get this car done.

The front linings were new and had been installed years ago but never ran. The one drum was turned down beyond tolerance and I guess they were never ran much. Good thing was they were NOS and cleaned up great and that's what's on there now. They definitely are a better lining.

I'd have to look up the company that I was going to use, expensive but they have a better material than the asbestos replacement material that they use now. Some on here know who I'm talking about.
 
khryslerkid said:
Thank you Sir.

They're 10" x 2-1/2", bought them from NAPA and went through several sets before I got a matched set. They had the wrong linings on the wrong shoes, wrong shoes as far as hole orientation ect. Even had a set that had a cracked lining installed. Not obtainable as easy as back in the day for sure. The counter person was very helpful getting me what I needed to get this car done.

The front linings were new and had been installed years ago but never ran. The one drum was turned down beyond tolerance and I guess they were never ran much. Good thing was they were NOS and cleaned up great and that's what's on there now. They definitely are a better lining.

I'd have to look up the company that I was going to use, expensive but they have a better material than the asbestos replacement material that they use now. Some on here know who I'm talking about.
Click to expand...
THANK YOU FOR YOUR EMAIL AND INFO.
Years ago I exclusively used Grayrock shoes, available just about everywhere. Grayrock was a reliner, using riveted asbestos based linings interwoven with brass particles on refurbished shoes....an excellent replacement shoe....worked well, lasted moderately long and were reasonably priced. Later, different friction materials were used, for NASCAR applications. The best material being a sintered powdered iron and a ceramic-graphite compound mixture, riveted on in three distinct segments per shoe. When cold, several times more petal pressure was required to stop the car. When they got hot, the stopping power was absolutely fantastic requiring very little pedal pressure, better than power a brake system, IMO. Their disadvantage was they wore the drum ID as fast as the shoes wore down and they were noisy.....squeeking and grinding when applied lightly.....but they really stopped the car....not exactly remember who made them....possibly Raybestos-Manhattan Co and or maybe GrayRock. I believe Raybestos-Manhattan also made both riveted and bonded shoes for the aftermarket as well.
BOB RENTON
 
khryslerkid said:
Thank you Sir.

They're 10" x 2-1/2", bought them from NAPA and went through several sets before I got a matched set. They had the wrong linings on the wrong shoes, wrong shoes as far as hole orientation ect. Even had a set that had a cracked lining installed. Not obtainable as easy as back in the day for sure. The counter person was very helpful getting me what I needed to get this car done.

The front linings were new and had been installed years ago but never ran. The one drum was turned down beyond tolerance and I guess they were never ran much. Good thing was they were NOS and cleaned up great and that's what's on there now. They definitely are a better lining.

I'd have to look up the company that I was going to use, expensive but they have a better material than the asbestos replacement material that they use now. Some on here know who I'm talking about.
Click to expand...
When I first got my present 66 Belvedere, I pulled the drums off to check things. They were working good but just wanted to make sure things were as they should be. The rear drums were deeply grooved but quickly found out that a 10x1.5 drums weren't available so I turned mine. Hit .120 over and stopped and there were still grooves in them that were at least .030 deep! Got to thinking that I had been driving it with these grooves already so threw them back on with new shoes and went for a test drive.....a hard one figuring they will either break apart or brake the car safely. I know there's a pretty good safety factor that's engineered into these things so took the chance they were still within that margin and they were still on the job when I finally got an 8 3/4 in the car several years later.
 
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