solid Motor mount

[TN Mopar]

Last weekend we replaced the stock motor mounts on my Charger with set of MagMounts from Mancini
I was worried about breaking the OEM style rubber mount on my 440
While changing the mounts I noticed a spot on my headers where they were rubbing the passenger side inner fenders.
After changing to the mag mounts the engine still twisted enough to rub
So I ordered solid mounts from Mancini
I will change them this weekend

But for those that have used solid mounts I have a couple of questions
1) did you use both solid mounts or only the driver side?
2) if using only the driver side would you put the mag mount on the passenger side?
3) how bad is the vibration going to be with solid mounts?
Thank you

 

[ruffcut]

Use Both solid mounts. I have them in my MW drag car and the right side header still rubs! And I also have elepnant ears too! Good luck. Ruffcut

 

[hunt2elk]

I run solid motor mounts (both sides) and a factory rubber trans mount on all my cars. You will find out if anything is loose in the car, but after getting things tightened up you should be good to go.

 

[65wgn440]

Ran both solids with poly trans mount (manual) for awhile. Swapped to Shumacker due to vibration issues, but that turned out to be mostly from bad input shaft bearing. Not much difference really. Street car.

 

[Dibbons]

I ran solid motor mounts on a four-speed bracket car to eliminate any movement with respect to z-bar and stuff. I had the motor balanced and never noticed any vibration transmitted to the body over and above rubber mounts. The transmission mount was the stock factory type (rubberized).

When revving the motor from idle in neutral, instead of the motor tilting to the right (passenger side), the vehicle would tilt slightly that way (lol).

I have always found old rubber mounts on the verge of splitting in two. The driver's side always has a separation/crack which could let loose at any moment. Don't trust 'em. On the bright side, purchased an '85 Olds Cierra at a discount which had a terrible vibration (owner said the auto transmission was going out). Got it home to find the problem was only a busted motor mount!

If you enlarge the photo of my 318, you can spot the crack/split already visible on the top of the rubber motor mount on the driver's side (only have about 2,000 miles on the little motor).

 

[Ironbuilt]

Solid motor mounts are not really intended for street use. Like mentioned above, you will definitely find out if anything else is loose on your car. I had them on a Challenger that I raced and did occasional street duty with. It helps with launch in a high torque engine.

 

[Mick56]

Years ago on my 66 Sport Fury, I wrapped a chain around the drivers exhaust manifold and then down to the frame. Used a long bolt to snug it up. It limited the engine movement, while still having the rubber mount. Looked tough, too.

 

[matthon]

Drill a hole through the bracket and rubber mount, countersink it on the bracket side.
Use a allen head counter sunk bolt with a nylon lock nut on the other side, tighten until it bottoms out then back off a bit.

Rubber mounts broke, poly mounts suck, slide apart, poor design on the internals, brand new Schumacher mounts and brackets bent.
Even with a chain on the driver's side and a bolt through the driver's side mount the engine would twist down on the passenger side.

This has been done by other members as well, and one did a nice thread on it with pics.

 

[beanhead]

I had the mity-mounts fail badly on my 440 so I put solids in when I installed my 505, and some rattles did show up that weren't there. There were more vibes in the steering wheel too, but it should be noted this is with a performance engine--bigger cam, headers, etc and I think that makes a difference compared to milder builds. So, I put the factory biscuit back on the passenger side only and it made a huge difference; I don't feel it's any worse than it was with rubber on both sides now. Maybe a slight bit more vibration but not enough to complain about now, and it's so worth it to have the engine not move anymore. I used a 1/2" bolt to hold down the driver side solid mount. It's the only way to go with any good HP in my opinion unless you're making BIG power and need a plate/elephant ear-type setup.
Heck if you want my extra solid mount you can have it, it's even powdercoated black...just PM me an address to send it to if interested.

 

[TN Mopar]

Drill a hole through the bracket and rubber mount, countersink it on the bracket side.
Use a allen head counter sunk bolt with a nylon lock nut on the other side, tighten until it bottoms out then back off a bit.

Rubber mounts broke, poly mounts suck, slide apart, poor design on the internals, brand new Schumacher mounts and brackets bent.
Even with a chain on the driver's side and a bolt through the driver's side mount the engine would twist down on the passenger side.

This has been done by other members as well, and one did a nice thread on it with pics.

I already have the MagMounts from Mancini installed
These are essentially what you described
A rubber mount with a solid bolt through them
They still allow the motor to move more than I would like

 

[TN Mopar]

I had the mity-mounts fail badly on my 440 so I put solids in when I installed my 505, and some rattles did show up that weren't there. There were more vibes in the steering wheel too, but it should be noted this is with a performance engine--bigger cam, headers, etc and I think that makes a difference compared to milder builds. So, I put the factory biscuit back on the passenger side only and it made a huge difference; I don't feel it's any worse than it was with rubber on both sides now. Maybe a slight bit more vibration but not enough to complain about now, and it's so worth it to have the engine not move anymore. I used a 1/2" bolt to hold down the driver side solid mount. It's the only way to go with any good HP in my opinion unless you're making BIG power and need a plate/elephant ear-type setup.
Heck if you want my extra solid mount you can have it, it's even powdercoated black...just PM me an address to send it to if interested.

Thank you that is a kind offer
However I already have the solid mounts from Mancini and they come in pairs
I believe I will just replace the drivers side and leave the passenger side rubber
At least until I can see if this will keep me from tearing up the finish on my headers any more than I have already

 

[dadsbee]

I've run the same solid mounts and a rubber trans mount in my 4 gear Bee since '79 as got tired of tearing up left side mounts. Never noticed any vibration issues, but maybe I just don't know any difference! LOL.. Well actually I do, the Bird has it's OEM rubber mounts, with it's Automatic trans, and both cars "rattle" about the same.

 

[Burns69RT]

Moroso solid mounts and a poly trans mount used them on all my Mopars. Run great no worries and no issues. Next step from that it a motor plate.