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Spark plug choice

My 318 in a '72 Satellite developed a miss in the lower rev range. Upon checking the plugs I noticed one was cracked. I took it out and it disintegrated in my hands. I decided to replace them all (NGK BP5ES) to NGK GR4 V-Power plugs. A very noticeable difference (in a good way), hot starts are instant and the misfire is gone.

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Broken plug could be the result of not having a rubber in the plug socket. (Yes I said rubber)

A crack in the porcelain will allow the spark to jump outside to ground.
 
OK, I'll bite.
Champions fowl easier than a left handed batter on the right side of the plate.
For the 101th time, NGK!!
"Fowl" refers to a bird, such as Chicken or Turkey or duck.....foul or fouling referes to a spark plug's inability to get hot enough to prevent carbon formation on the exposed insulator and electrode resulting in a misfire.....perhaps only NGK's are subject to fowling......??
BOB RENTON
 
I've been using Denso in my Indy heads and I used to use NGK plugs In my old iron factory heads.
Champion plugs belong in lawn mowers.

Gus
 
Agree. NGK seems to have a real problem with fakes on the market. Amazon, eBay and other online platforms are rife with fake plugs.

There are some good videos on YouTube that provide information on how to spot fake plugs.

  1. Inspect font type and signs of smudges on the spark plug
  2. Look out for a machine cutting marks on the caulking
  3. Check the hexagon for a LOT number and the correct font type (ring NGK if in doubt. They can tell you if the lot number is legit)
  4. The C-groove portion show machine cutting marks
  5. Have a close look at the electrode. Compare to a genuine product's electrode

Also, if the word 'Japan' is stamped on them, the 'p' is underlined on the authentic plugs but absent in fakes.

The indentation at the top of the terminal on authentic plugs is large and pronounced, where as the fakes are small and hardly noticeable.

The porcelain is sometimes able to turn on the fake plugs.

To reduce the risk of purchasing fake plugs, buy from reputable outlets that buy directly from NGK agents.

The ground/side electrode on authentic plugs are generally arched-shape, and the fakes are more squared and closer to a 90⁰ right angle.

Check your plugs every so often as fakes wear far more quickly than the authentic plugs, especially iridium.

I'm sure folks can add to this list.
 
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When I switched to aluminum heads, I ran NGK, and it ran good. I had distributor problems, but started changing parts until I got to that conclusion. For some reason I decided to put champions in it, I’ve had bad experience with champions before but said what the hay, the car ran like like ****, missing on several cylinders, just ****. Then I put autolites in and it runs good, so for me autolites or NGK

I’ve also had a brand new set of champions die in a month. Put a new set of plugs in a 383 in a satellite I had, did some work on it so the car was down for a month, went to start it, ran like ****. Put autolites all good
 
Ok I guess I’ll take a dip here. It seems to me that everyone of course has their favorite spark plugs, but those spark plugs are at the receiving end of the ignition system and can only perform to the level of energy provided by the ignition system.

Like lots of people here I have had many vehicles with lots of spark plugs and I seriously can not recall any time where a car was either fouling or eating spark plugs. I have always replaced parts that were still functioning and ignition system parts are always on that list, just like water pumps, timing components and wiper blades. Ignition parts other than the plugs were changed more frequently than any spark plugs. Just my opinion and experience and that’s all.
 
NGK's are good. Champions are fine. Like 64fury allude to above, if plugs are fouling out...it probably ain't the plugs, but the tune/tuner. My 600+hp heap has fired up and run just fine with most all of them, and for lots of hard miles. Hell I've put hardware-store (=lawnmower!)RC12YCs in my car in a pinch and they led a long happy life.
For the record, I prefer NGK but that's mostly because my localyokul O'reilly's ALWAYS has 8 of my style in stock when I need them. Maybe it's because the import kids all use them, I dunno....
One plug I won't use, is any one with black threads (certain Autolites come to mind). Too hard to read heat with those.
 
"Fowl" refers to a bird, such as Chicken or Turkey or duck.....foul or fouling referes to a spark plug's inability to get hot enough to prevent carbon formation on the exposed insulator and electrode resulting in a misfire.....perhaps only NGK's are subject to fowling......??
BOB RENTON
Thanks for the clarification there grammar policeman Bob.
Check your spelling on "referes" before you start busting someone's balls for spelling.
:lol:
 
If a person is going to compare plug performance between brands, it is most important to make the heat range is correct & the same electrode type/shape. Otherwise, it is not an apples to apples comparison.
 
Any decent brand will suit your needs, select the correct type heat range, resistor/non-resistor type and after some time you can remove them and see if they are a correct heat range for your engine. (fouling and black threads are a good indication to check, there are plenty spark plug check cards on the web that may be help full.)
Then you may raise/lower the heat range if required.
If you want to go with irridium/titanium/unobtainium coated spark plugs is up to you, they are more expensive but last longer.
Though spending $50 on new "normal" spark plugs once a year are not the running costs you need to consider.
Like others already stated, the spark plug is the bullet, you need a good rifle to fire it, so your ignition system needs to be in good order.
 
Thanks for the clarification there grammar policeman Bob.
Check your spelling on "referes" before you start busting someone's balls for spelling.
:lol:
Haha love it!
People in glass houses...
Just my opinion of course:)
 
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