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SPECIFIC question where to find matching numbers on 69 RR engine

On my 70 Challenger build sheet, the vehicle order number is the second box from the left at the very top in line 1. The first 3 numbers are the build date on it. Mine is 519xxxxxx, indicating May 19.
 
No, you didn't answer the last 2 questions. Those are directly related to both dates being discussed.

did not look below distributor
no fender tag car was in accident on 70s took out left fender, when I painted we sanded off the primer and it was yellow so fender not original

Probably wont have the VIN on the dizzy pad but it should have the date stamped on it.
 
Decoding Engine Block Stamping #'s

1965 - 1971

After '65 a typical engine ID code will look like this: B383-322
The first digit identifies the year: B=1966
The next 3 digits are the engine CID: 383=383
The last 3 digits are the date and month: 322= March 22

Year Codes for B & RB Engines
  • A - 1965
  • B - 1966
  • C - 1967
  • D - 1968
  • E - 1969
  • F - 1970
  • G - 1971
  • H - 1972
  • J - 1973
  • P - 1960
  • R - 1961
  • S - 1962
  • T - 1963
  • V - 1964
  • 4T - 1974
  • 5T - 1975
  • 6T - 1976
  • 7T - 1977
  • 8T - 1978
 
Gonna clean up engine in the next few days, will go over it with a fine tooth comb.
Research last night indicates the last number of the sequence number and first 3 numbers of the order number is the proposed date of the car build. Any theories?
so 200249 and 120309461 means Jan 20 1969???

IMG_4846.JPG
 
Where would I find the letter code? I saw 2468130.8 which is a 383? But see no letter, it does have date stamp, last 2 numbers are too hard to tell could be 8 - 13/18 - 68/69
 
Look on the pad below the distributor! Thats why i asked. There will be letter and numbers there.
 
You are spending too much time on numbers that dont matter
 
sorry dukeboy. Didnt see anything for a whole day. LOL forgot to refresh. :-( soon as I posted replies popped up.
 
Not in my opinion PP1RT. I am trying to sell my car through a classic car dealership friend of mine. I am asking $35,000. Mopar guys keep coming out to look at it but offer $27,000 to $31,000. All say if I can verify this is not a swapped engine they would pay what I am asking. My dealer friend agrees. if there is a way to verify that engine came out of the factory with that engine in it, or that the probability that it did, it is more valuable then a swapped engine. Both previous owners say the engine was not swapped. Just trying to find super high probability that they are true statements. it is a 68 or 69 block so according to this thread it SHOULD have a vin. Since stamping was supposed to start August of 1967. If it was swapped out of another car it should have a different vin. If not, then I am thinking it was a FACTORY swap. otherwise it would have vin numbers. But that is why so many questions. Im not an expert.
 
Not in my opinion PP1RT. I am trying to sell my car through a classic car dealership friend of mine. I am asking $35,000. Mopar guys keep coming out to look at it but offer $27,000 to $31,000. All say if I can verify this is not a swapped engine they would pay what I am asking. My dealer friend agrees. if there is a way to verify that engine came out of the factory with that engine in it, or that the probability that it did, it is more valuable then a swapped engine. Both previous owners say the engine was not swapped. Just trying to find super high probability that they are true statements. it is a 68 or 69 block so according to this thread it SHOULD have a vin. Since stamping was supposed to start August of 1967. If it was swapped out of another car it should have a different vin. If not, then I am thinking it was a FACTORY swap. otherwise it would have vin numbers. But that is why so many questions. Im not an expert.
Problem you're going to run into is it doesn't appear to have that VIN stamped. At this point, based on the information you've provided, I really don't think you're going to be able to do anything but say it's a "date correct block".
 
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I understand what you are trying to find out. That is why a few of us have said to look on the pad below the distributor. You do not have the original motor obviously. This pad should have a letter and numbers. The letter should indicate the year folliwed by the displacement. There should also be an engine assembly date on that pad.

Find that pad. Clean it good. Post a pic. We are trying to help you.
 
How can you ask if the thread is dead... I showed where you'd find the date mfg on the dizzy pad above, it was then asked again if you looked (using my picture) this morning.

Based on your August '68 casting date and only a revision 8 block casting vs my revision 12 from Feb '69 I REALLY doubt your engine is a warrantee replacement. You either have a late '68 engine with VIN stamped up on top rear, or someone ground the old numbers off. I don't see any evidence of milling cutter marks on that pad.
 
so 200249 and 120309461 means Jan 20 1969???

The "120" means January 20th - correct.

Based on your August '68 casting date and only a revision 8 block casting vs my revision 12 from Feb '69 I REALLY doubt your engine is a warrantee replacement. You either have a late '68 engine with VIN stamped up on top rear, or someone ground the old numbers off. I don't see any evidence of milling cutter marks on that pad.

I agree with this statement and if I enlarge the photo you have of the bell housing flange, you can almost make out a faint number stamped in the location where 1968 engine blocks would be stamped. Does anyone else see this or am I imagining it?!

Finding what is stamped on the distributor pad should tell the story. That is the missing piece of this puzzle...
 
The area that PP1RT circled is the area I am referring to and is about the same location as where my 1968 block was stamped...
 
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