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Speedcooling ECP radiator

Went for a 40 mile cruise around town trying to break it. I think the temp outside today is low 80s. Can't say it cools any better than the old 3 row champion without shroud. Temp gauge always showed 180. We will see this summer.

I did test the shroud. I placed a business card at each corner of the radiator while idling. It stayed in place, so I know the shroud is working.

As I expected the transmission line fittings are moist. I'll try to tighten 1/8 a turn when it cools down. Probably try Teflon tape next.

I'll update the thread later with a video.
 
Did you route the ATF lines only through the radiator? I have read about people running them through an extra cooler as well. I'll probably do the latter.
 
Did you route the ATF lines only through the radiator? I have read about people running them through an extra cooler as well. I'll probably do the latter.
Yes. Lines just to the radiator. I always have problems with these lines (and brake lines for that matter).
 
Did you route the ATF lines only through the radiator? I have read about people running them through an extra cooler as well. I'll probably do the latter.
I would run them through the radiator OR an external cooler, not both. It takes time for fluid to run through a cooler and the last thing that you want to do is starve your trans.
 
Any updates?
It looks as if I have a radiator leak, but can't prove it. Between the petcock and transmission fitting I have some coolant. Not enough to drip, but constantly wet.
Borrowed a really nice snap on coolant pressure tester from @JimKueneman and pressure tested at 13psi overnight. No leakdown on the gauge, no drips, but moist to the touch in that area between petcock and transmission fitting.
Called Frank at ECP and he said to drive it awhile and assured me he will warranty IF I can prove the radiator is the cause. I may replace the petcock as a last ditch effort.

Not sure where to go from here. I guess the good news is the transmission line fittings are not leaking as I originally thought.
 
If you have a 180 thermostat, it’s gonna run at a minimum of 180. Summer will test the system. I find most cooling issues are usually something else. Lot’s are timing related and some are self inflicted like the guys that insist on a 1980’s flex fan or those stupid electric fans that cut airflow by 75%.
 
It looks as if I have a radiator leak, but can't prove it.
Called Frank at ECP and he said to drive it awhile and assured me he will warranty IF I can prove the radiator is the cause. I may replace the petcock as a last ditch effort.
I know this is somewhat of a thread jack but we are a sponsor and i keep hearing how great ECP is on just this B-Body forum. And it's not that they are a bad choice, but my .02 that there are other choices out there. :) Cold Case has a published 60 day cool guarantee for this very reason. If for any reason you are unhappy with your Cold Case purchase within 60 days of installation, you may return it for a replacement or full refund. Your choice. NO REQUIREMENTS!

Bill, I'm not doing this to rub it in. Explain this topic and the bad publicity it is generating to ECP and I guarantee you he'll take it back and replace it! :)
 
It looks as if I have a radiator leak, but can't prove it. Between the petcock and transmission fitting I have some coolant. Not enough to drip, but constantly wet.
Borrowed a really nice snap on coolant pressure tester from @JimKueneman and pressure tested at 13psi overnight. No leakdown on the gauge, no drips, but moist to the touch in that area between petcock and transmission fitting.
Called Frank at ECP and he said to drive it awhile and assured me he will warranty IF I can prove the radiator is the cause. I may replace the petcock as a last ditch effort.

Not sure where to go from here. I guess the good news is the transmission line fittings are not leaking as I originally thought.

That sucks! Hope it isn't a leak but if it stays wet send it back.
 
So.......what did we find out?
 
Going out to start it up and look for the leak now. One thing I did notice is the petcock is installed with what looks like an enormous amount of Teflon tape.

It doesn't leak to drip. Just moist with coolant between the petcock and transmission fitting.
 
Keep us posted.
 
Keep us posted.
The petcock easily took another 1/4 turn in the radiator mount.

I just drove a few miles doing errands.

Letting it cool off and will search for leaks.
 
Well I will cautiously say it is fixed! Ran a few errands yesterday, let it cool off and wiped my hand across the bottom of the radiator and support. No leak.

Drove the car on a 8 mile start and stop trip and let it cool off. No leaks.

Maybe, just maybe the petcock was seeping out of the threads. I'll take this as a fix, but suspicious as it seemed to be wet more on the tank than the petcock.

On another interesting note, I let the car idle until the upper radiator hose was warm (thermostat open). I used a infra rad thermal gun and made a few measurements. My temp gauge shows dead on 180F, and this is what I measured with the gun under the hood:
Upper radiator hose near radiator inlet: 167F
Lower radiator hose near radiator outlet: 119F
Right hand heater hose: 178F
Left hand heater hose: 167F

Once I can get the videos edited and uploaded I will send out the links.

I'll also update this thread if the leak reappears.

Thanks for all of the inputs and help.
 
NO TEFLON TAPE ON The Flares, you can use some on the pipe threads but Hylomar is better
I run half inch oil proof hose to 100 plate cooler with half inch fittings
trans is tapped one pipe thread size larger than stock and the fittings drilled to the max
aluminum support in the trans has the coolant hole widened, trans is drilled to the max
measuring back pressure at the trans each to/ from hose droops the pressure 15 lbs and bypassing the radiator cooler droops another 15 lbs
time to fill a quart container drops way down
radiator cooler is also a heater in cold weather so think it through
I'm running Citgo Quatrasyn which is much thinner cold than 4+ and even thinner than DEX VI (which should not be used in mopars)
Quatrasyn is a better base stock than either so it does not shear down and does not thin down when hot- i.e. thicker hot than Dex VI and 4+
and has a longer service cycle
those of you especially running showplows or quick response in cold weather should take a look at it, also if you are in a high heat application
 
After conversations with fellow motorheads at work it seems ALL replacement aluminum radiators are made for electric fan shrouds. In so many words that is what champion told me when I inquired about shrouds.
I think you just used the wrong shroud. I ordered the mopar 2998326 shroud from Summit racing and the holes were dead on. I did add some rivnuts and trimmed the edge.
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It looks like it is. Mine is in the box in the garage.
 
I just got mine for my 69’ Dart GT. Gonna be fun putting in a 26” radiator where a 22” barely fits, lol!!
 
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