Starter heat shield ideas

Electrical & Ignition

  1. Kern Dog

    Kern Dog FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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    The starter has a "nose" on it that is supposed to slip into a recess in the transmission. I have accidently installed a starter while not noticing that the mounting face of the starter wasn't sitting flush to the transmission. I got grinding noises from that.
    This is in NO way an insult or a jab at you BUT are you certain that the starter is bolted in flush?
     
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    • 1 Wild R/T

      1 Wild R/T Well-Known Member

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      I agree.. And like Greg said not meant as a jab, it's tough to do this kind of work laying on your back..... Especially as we get older...
       
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      • hunt2elk

        hunt2elk FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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        And you will win also. Sometimes you just need to take a little break to get in a different mindset.
         
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        • CoronetDarter

          CoronetDarter Well-Known Member

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          No insult taken Greg; just the opposite I appreciate the input. At this point I can't say definitively that the starter is mounted correctly. I'm going to take a closer look this weekend.
           
        • CoronetDarter

          CoronetDarter Well-Known Member

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          I've hung around Greg enough to be insulted when he doesn't throw a jab at least once during a conversation.
          Laying on my back, squeezing my hands through the spark plug access hole, it all adds up. Two of us spent the better part of Saturday r&r'ing the starter. No doubt nerves are frayed and bodies are tired after 7 - 8 hours. Taking a fresh look this weekend.
           
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          • CoronetDarter

            CoronetDarter Well-Known Member

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            So Colorado Dave stopped by today. He climbed underneath the car, put his right hand over the starter, began talking in tongues, and after about 30 seconds came back up and told me to give it a try. Fired up on the first crank! We tried it twice more to be sure. Dave has the magic touch.
            Cruised around this afternoon, got gas with no issues. The starter still won't turn over within 1 minute; but will at 3 minutes. At this point the reason points to the battery, but until I have it load tested I can live with 3 minutes.
             
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            • MoparGuy68

              MoparGuy68 Well-Known Member

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              I used to go through the stock reduction gear starter every 2+ years in my 71 Challenger. How can I keep the starter cool in hot AZ? The answer came in the form of Ceramic Fiber Insulation Blanket material. This stuff in used to insulate fireplaces and can withstand about 2300 degrees F. I had found a place that sold me a smaller piece of it. It normally comes in rolls.

              I wrapped it around a remanufactured stock starter, shielding it from the engine block and header pipes. I did this in 1989, and never had to buy another starter. In 1998 when I sold the car, it still had the same starter in it with the insulation blanket wrapped around it. So at that point the starter had been performing without issues for 9+ years..

              I just removed the stock starter from my Bee today. And will probably do the same thing again on this car.
               
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              • coloradodave

                coloradodave FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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                This is a good solution for some situations. I used to use that material in my woodstove/fireplace business. On big blocks with headers, unfortunately, there is almost no room to place 1/2" to 3/4" thick material around the starter...
                 
              • coloradodave

                coloradodave FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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                Rich, Sorry to hear my heavenly fix didn't solve the hot soak problem. Since my car is down for a few days, if you want to come by and borrow one of my Group 27 Diehards to test (1000 CCAs), just PM me or call. I'll PM my number to you.
                Dave
                 
              • CoronetDarter

                CoronetDarter Well-Known Member

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                Cruised over to Dave's house, turns out he's about 3 - 4 miles from me. He's running dual batteries. We swapped out mine for one of his, drove home, shut her down, and she fired right up. Shut 'er down, and she'd fired right back up. :thumbsup: The last piece of the puzzle. Hey Dave, aren't batteries like kidneys, you only need one. :poke:
                 
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                • Kern Dog

                  Kern Dog FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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                  I don't recall....Is your battery in the trunk, Rich ?
                   
                • Wietse

                  Wietse Well-Known Member

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                  Good to hear it turns out to be a poor battery, saves you some hours underneath the car again!

                  Would the longer wiring have any effect on starting power?
                  Losses in the cable?
                   
                • CoronetDarter

                  CoronetDarter Well-Known Member

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                  Yes it would. Most people run 1/0 welding cable to the starter from the trunk; besides the larger size the welding cable is multi-strand so it's somewhat flexible.
                   
                • CoronetDarter

                  CoronetDarter Well-Known Member

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                  It is. And as we were swapping batteries last night another thought came to mind. During the resto I repurposed the original negative cable from the batt to block and attached it to the body (metal to metal with star washers). But the neg cable should be 1/0 too so I'm going build another cable with the leftover 1/0 in my garage.
                   
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                  • Kern Dog

                    Kern Dog FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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                    There are many ways to skin a cat.
                    I ran a 1/0 cable from the FORD starter relay in the trunk through the interior and directly to the starter. I have a trigger wire that energizes the starter. For grounds, I have the battery negative to the chassis. I have the block to the battery negative and the engine block to the chassis as well.
                     
                  • CoronetDarter

                    CoronetDarter Well-Known Member

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                    My setup is exactly like yours on the positive side. I'm using the factory drilled hole on the trunk hinge bracket for the batt negative, 1/0 from the front frame rail to the engine block, and then a new braided cable from the firewall to block.
                     
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                    • CoronetDarter

                      CoronetDarter Well-Known Member

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                      Wound up buying a Group 65 battery at Costco this weekend. The 65 and 27 are very similar but the 65 had higher CCA - 850 vs 810 and 1000 CA.
                      Also replaced the neg batt cable with the 1/0. Bought a HD lug crimper, the kind you pound on with a 3-4 lbs sledge hammer. This tool is a must have if you're crimping 1/0; it goes up to 4/0.
                      Took it on a test drive to get it to operating temp. The starter turns over immediately after shut-off, multiple times. Hot start issue solved. All it took was replacing the starter, battery, and cable but at least I don't need a heat shield.

                      IMG_5283.JPG
                       
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                      • Kern Dog

                        Kern Dog FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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                        I like the sarcasm.
                        I rebuilt the engine but at least I didn't need new spark plugs....
                         
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                        • coloradodave

                          coloradodave FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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                          Yahoo!! Meanwhile, how's the work on the Opel GT coming?
                           
                        • CoronetDarter

                          CoronetDarter Well-Known Member

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                          The front brakes are done. We started working on the rear suspension. Installed 1" lowering springs along with Koni shocks. Changed out all the rubber bushings for poly. Got a little hung up because now the trailing arm bushings are off by 1/8" in the mounting brackets. I have the panhard rod secured hand-tight and upon research I need to disconnect it completely to release all preload on the suspension. Should finish up this weekend.
                           
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