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Steering coupler

MarPar said:
Dont forget to shake yer fist at it. And couple of swear words wouldn't hurt either. lol good luck.
Click to expand...
Quick update. I have the three inch coupler. It is too short. I ordered the 3.5 from Detroit Muscle Technologies. When I bought the manual floor shift column the 3.5 inch coupler was installed. My guess is the 3.5 coupler is used on newer b bodies 73, 74? Thanks for your help.
 
John E Johnson said:
Quick update. I have the three inch coupler. It is too short. I ordered the 3.5 from Detroit Muscle Technologies. When I bought the manual floor shift column the 3.5 inch coupler was installed. My guess is the 3.5 coupler is used on newer b bodies 73, 74? Thanks for your help.
Click to expand...

Not sure offhand. Good thing you figgered out what it was though! That would drive me batty as well. lol
 
John E Johnson said:
I know this is an old post, but do you have any idea how to install this clamp? I have a big block which makes it a little tight in the engine bay. I have tried, but I wind up being perplexed at this.
Click to expand...
I just installed one yesterday. After 2 previous failed attempts to install on an already installed steering column under hood the past few weekends I finally figured it out. Here are the key points:

#1 - this clamp only goes on one way because the roll pin holes are not centered on the coupler. So mock it up first - you may need to turn your steering wheel so the coupler is facing up towards you. This makes it easier.

#2 - if your flat metal ring that's already on there is popping off a bit and loose, make sure the corner tabs are opened up so they won't run interference when you try to place the wire clamp on

#3 - Before starting the clamp install, use pliers and open up the split end so you yield it and it maintains about a 1/4-1/2" opening. Then do the install. This was the most important part in making it easier. That clamp wire is pretty strong and trying to fight it with a pair of needle nose while keeping the existing metal ring centered so it doesn't get all out of place is tricky enough.

#4 - Split the clamp open at the split end and place over shaft, then orient it so the closed end is on bottom of the coupler and the split end is up top facing you. Start with the closed end first over the coupler edge and rock the wire clamp up and forward. Then grab the clamp wire free ends with needle nose and yank it into position and secure it locked into the coupler roll pin holes. DONE!
 
khryslerkid said:
This one is a little different looking because its a 1962 but the shoes and clip are the same.

Look closely at the pointed ridge on the shoe. You probably have them front to back instead of side to side.

The clip goes under the shoes to hold them outward

View attachment 982057
Click to expand...
Sorry to resurrect an old post, but I have a question directly related to this. My '64 Fury Wagon with power steering has excess play in the wheel, which I have isolated to the steering coupler which exactly matches the one in this photo. After disassembling I discovered that the shoes were installed 90 degrees off, which accounts for the excess play. My question is how to orient the spring clip upon reassembly. If oriented as shown in this photo, the top of the clip is higher than the inside of the coupler body and would need to be compressed for insertion and it would create significant metal-to-metal contact during operation. Is that correct or should the spring clip be installed differently, or do I have the wrong clip?

Thanks for any suggestions.

-Jeff
 
4SpeedWagon said:
Sorry to resurrect an old post, but I have a question directly related to this. My '64 Fury Wagon with power steering has excess play in the wheel, which I have isolated to the steering coupler which exactly matches the one in this photo. After disassembling I discovered that the shoes were installed 90 degrees off, which accounts for the excess play. My question is how to orient the spring clip upon reassembly. If oriented as shown in this photo, the top of the clip is higher than the inside of the coupler body and would need to be compressed for insertion and it would create significant metal-to-metal contact during operation. Is that correct or should the spring clip be installed differently, or do I have the wrong clip?

Thanks for any suggestions.

-Jeff
Click to expand...

The person who did the restoration probably used a rebuild kit for a newer model. The earlier model outer housing is flat where the shoe spring makes contact, so the spring is flat there.
20170720_173032.jpg


This pic is the newer model that the housing is rounded and the shoe spring is pointed in the middle.
Capture.PNG


Is your spring pointed or flat?
 
Here's my spring mounted to the shoes:
2022-06-13 13.17.27-1.jpg

I'm guessing we would consider this one pointed. Any idea how I could find a flat spring, since the rebuild kits seem to be non-existent?

I sure appreciate your help.

-Jeff
 
4SpeedWagon said:
Here's my spring mounted to the shoes:
View attachment 1298413
I'm guessing we would consider this one pointed. Any idea how I could find a flat spring, since the rebuild kits seem to be non-existent?

I sure appreciate your help.

-Jeff
Click to expand...

Definitely the wrong shoe spring. Might be the wrong shoes also. You could contact Laysons. Or Joe Shusy. Make sure to tell them you have the earlier one with the flat on the shoe spring. Laysons is a Member/Vendor on here.

LAYSON'S RESTORATIONS - DODGE, CHRYSLER, PLYMOUTH RESTORATION PARTS

joesuchybcard.jpg


You could also start a "Wanted to Buy" thread.

Ps, that pin should be a solid one that is pressed into the steering shaft. Mine was pressed in so hard I couldn't remove it.
 
Well spotted about the pin khryslerkid.
For sure a roll pin could shear - needs to be solid.
 
steve340 said:
Well spotted about the pin khryslerkid.
For sure a roll pin could shear - needs to be solid.
Click to expand...
Thanks. Mine is indeed a solid pin but only a light friction fit into the steering shaft hole rather than a press fit.
 
Mine is pretty tight in the steering shaft. Tight is good so the pin will not "work" the shaft hole open. The less play the parts have the better.
 
I contacted Layson's and they tried to be helpful. They carry the complete steering coupler as wall as all parts individually. However, after swapping photos we discovered that theirs is only the later model unit with the pointed top spring. His suggestion was to pound down the protruding portion of the spring and see if it would fit. I didn't like that idea too much, so I corresponded with Joe Suchy.

Joe has the complete earlier model steering coupler, so I ordered it and it appears he is shipping it today. Fingers crossed that by the end of this week I will have it to install and the problem will be solved.

Thank you very much to all for the great advice. I can see that this forum will be invaluable as I fine tune all the little quirks in my Fury.
 
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